Some Questions on Working With Snap-Lock DC Ducting

[Gabe Varsanyi]

Hi Folks,

I'm finally getting ready to install the ducting for my Oneida Pro 1500. I've spent quite a bit of time reading relevant threads in the forums, and found some good tips, but I still have some questions:

1) What is the best method to cut the sheet metal? Jigsaw or shears?
2) Is it better to snap together my straight pipe and then cut, or cut it on the flat before snapping? Can I easily unsnap the pipe once it has been snapped?
3) Should I tape the snapped seams? Oneida says it is not necessary, but many posts claim otherwise.
4) Is aluminum tape sufficient at the joints if the pipe is well supported by straps? I would rather avoid mechanical fasteners.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Gabe

[Ole Anderson]

Hi Folks,

I'm finally getting ready to install the ducting for my Oneida Pro 1500. I've spent quite a bit of time reading relevant threads in the forums, and found some good tips, but I still have some questions:

1) What is the best method to cut the sheet metal? Jigsaw or shears?
2) Is it better to snap together my straight pipe and then cut, or cut it on the flat before snapping? Can I easily unsnap the pipe once it has been snapped?
3) Should I tape the snapped seams? Oneida says it is not necessary, but many posts claim otherwise.
4) Is aluminum tape sufficient at the joints if the pipe is well supported by straps? I would rather avoid mechanical fasteners.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Gabe

As with most questions, you will a number of different answers depending on the experiences of those answering the questions. First, I presume you have done a search and run across this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...tall&highlight= So answering your questions in order with an obligatory "IMHO":

1 and 2. When delivered the snaplock is not flat, it is "unsnapped" but still rolled so they can bundle 5 pieces together, so it is best to snap it together first. Then cut a small starter hole with an angle grinder with a 1/16" cutoff wheel and finish up the cut with a jigsaw with a very fine metal cutting blade. Use a Sharpie to mark your cut line all around the pipe. To help, I used a circle cutter and a piece of 1/8" Masonite and just slid it down the pipe to the cutoff point. Once the pipe is snapped together it is difficult but not impossible to unsnap.

3 and 4. I don't know how much air could be sucked in the seams, but I chose to tape them to eliminate that possibility. Aluminum tape will make the end to end joints very rigid, but I am a belt and suspenders guy so I used 1/8" x 1/8" pop rivets at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00.

Once you get your system installed, turn it on with all gates closed and go around listening for leaks, especially at the wyes and bends. Silicone all leaking joints where it is not easy to tape them.

Have fun, I did!

[richard poitras]

Good timing on this thread as well. I ordered my metal duct the first of the week and it should be here next week I hope. I am putting my duct on a Oneida Pro 2000.

To seal my joints I am using the aluminum tape and seam sealer mastic.

Gabe what brand flex hose are you going to be using to tie the metal pipe into your machines?

Richard

[Gabe Varsanyi]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Ole. It is much appreciated!

Gabe

[Gabe Varsanyi]

Richard,

Thanks for your reply. I acquired my system almost 4 years ago. Life got in the way, so I am just now finally installing the duct work. I purchased 50' of the 5" flex hose Oneida was offering at the time. I can't tell the brand, but it is a fairly heavy clear vinyl, with a thick gauged wire spiraling through it.

Gabe

[Jim Andrew]

I like to cut my pipe with shears, and before it is snapped together. Get a pair of the crimping pliers so you can crimp an uncrimped end, then you can use your cutoffs. The better grade of duct tape works well to tape the end joints, the cheap stuff doesn't stick well. Aluminum tape is more expensive.It is called furnace tape. And you need some good quality aviation snips. The super cheap ones are a pita. Would not hurt to wear leather gloves when working with the pipe, cut ends are sharp.

[Peter Kelly]

I've tried cutting 26ga and 24ga on the flat but found that I got a much neater and more square end with the pipe rolled and using the angle grinder. Takes some practice but works well once you get the hang of it.