Another George Wilson inspired hammer thread

[Ryan Baker]

Brass likes sharp edges,but rather blunt cutting angles. Do not use an acute cutting edge. Can you grind the end of a flat file to a curved scraper? Just make the cutting angle about 10º when viewed from the side. And DO keep the toolrest as close to the brass as possible. Files are brittle,and you don't want one snapping off in your face.

Agreed. 10 degrees seems like a good angle that I have found too. And keep the edge sharp. Most wood turning tools have much more acute angles. If you are going to use one of those, you should first regrind the tool to a much less acute angle. As I mentioned, I did some of the turning with a small spindle gouge, with a fairly obtuse bevel angle. (This was mostly just to try. It works OK, but the scrapers generally work better.) Don't try something like a fingernail grind or it will be very grabby.

[Jim Stewart]

Thanks George, Yes I can make a scraper and will do that. I will definitely wear a shield.

Wish I lived closer. When I retired in 2006 I took a trip to Williamsburg hoping to learn something about making period furniture. I watched the guys there off and on for two days. I did not know what to ask so I came back with no new knowledge. I enjoyed the place and we had a good time. I have made a great deal of progress since but have a very long way to go. I enjoy your and many others insights and tips on this blog. Jim

[Dave Anderson NH]

Nicely done hammers!! Truning brass on a wood lathe is fun, but as George has said, turn carefully,slowly, and take precautions. Tool presentation is critical and I strongly recommend sharpening every tool carefully before starting. George is not kidding about having the toolrest as close as possible to the stock you are turning. You would not believe how quickly that tool can be violently torn from your hands if you present the tool too low on the stock and it gets between the toolrest and the bar stock. Start turning by rubbing the bevel high up on the brass and slowly, very slowly, raise the rear of the handle of the tool until it starts to cut. Stay on the upper 1/3 of the brass bar and you shouldn't have the tool grab on you. Remember that the brass does not have the flex or plasticity of wood so it is not at all forgiving when turned by hand.

[george wilson]

Exactly,Dave. I have a bunch of little,short freehand turning tools O made from 1/4" square W1. The blades are no longer than 3",and they have file handles on them. Many a time one of them has gotten hung up on brass and sucked right down between the tool rest and the brass !! There is not much leverage with such short tools,but I didn't want to use up my supply of W1 when they were made. I've warned everyone that I always do everything the hard way!!

Edit: (was in a hurry before),My brass is always clamped securely in a collet or another chuck,and cannot come flying out. So,you who are trying to turn it between centers,be careful to have a long enough tool,and DO keep the tool rest as close as possible,even if you are doing a curvy shape,and have to shift it about to keep it close to the place you are turning. Turning between centers is NOT a real secure way to hold your brass compared to being able to chuck it.