I wouldn't get that over the LA jack, but you can if you want. It's probably an Ok plane, and maybe even a fine one. There is no question about it with the LV, though, and if you only want to buy one plane, you really only want to do it once.
Guest
I wouldn't get that over the LA jack, but you can if you want. It's probably an Ok plane, and maybe even a fine one. There is no question about it with the LV, though, and if you only want to buy one plane, you really only want to do it once.
[OP]
Contributor
this one?
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Pag...82,41186,49708
Do they ever have sales on these?
What tool steel should I get?
Guest
Their sales are free shipping, not a decrease in price.
If you have oilstones, you should stick to O1 steel. If you don't, it really doesn't make a functional difference what steel you get, your time spent in the shop will be about the same regardless.
Contributor
I'm over in Bellefontaine, Oh. Let me know when , or if you would like to come up, and try out a few "old" planes.....SDC13565.jpg
Contributor
Some folks prefer this one: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=62
It is just a matter of preference. If you can get a chance to handle both, then it is easier to find which fits your hand better. Both are great planes with great customer service.
I like my #62 more for end grain than I do face planing. I only have one blade. When a higher angle is desired, a standard bench plane works fine.
My current #5s (4 of them) were all less than $20 each. All four totaled add up to about $40 spent plus the time to clean them up. The newest one, a type 17 is the only one that is not to my liking. For me, the pre 1930s planes are desired.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
Jim:
Not meant to scare or insult you, but it sounds like you are a bit green in regards to hand planes.
There is more to just picking up a used Stanley, sharpening it ( to the best of your ability ) and being very disappointed with the results compared to a belt sander. There is a steep curve to getting it right, but when you do, the ' EUREKA ' moment happens and that is it. You are hooked!
I don't know you, or your abilities, but strongly suggest you take Steven up on his generous offer - flattening out the learning hump is a great thing to do. I hope I didn't offend you in any way - - -
Good Luck!
Dave B
Contributor
I concur. There is absolutely no substitute for picking up a plane that an experienced woodworker tells you is working fine. You'll save money and time and you'll rocket right into where you want to go. If you haven't had this experience, it will seem like a miracle to you. I think we're all trying to say that to you in our different ways. You can find it through trial and error as many of us have, but it can take you years to have the assurance that you've found it. If somebody shows you, you can skip the grade school and move directly into hand tool adolescence. Highly recommended.
One more thing. As fantastic as new planes are from LV and Lie-Nielsen, even those blades aren't ready to go. They still need the the final lap marks taken out of the backs and then a small secondary bevel. The lower end planes may be fine structurally, but their irons are going to need even more initial work. Again, there is no price you can put the instant "ahah!" of a demonstration. Consider a Lie-Nielsen tool event. There would be a state of the art "ahah" for you.
Member
I'll also support the idea of going to visit Steven. It would serve you very well to go see and feel some items in action and get some perspective from somebody else about the bigger picture. Planes aren't as simple as sanders and I think that is why they perform a much more refined task.
My first experience with planes was very frustrating for these exact reasons. With no research and no idea of sharpening, I got a garbage #4 at Home Depot. My expectations of a poor tool were too high and I had no clue how to improve its chances, all the while wasting precious stock. I'd spend enough time with somebody with more experience to see if you catch the fever. I don't think it will take long either. I'd say within minutes you'll know. And if you like the hand planing thing after that, you won't feel bad about throwing $350 at a very good plane and a way to keep it sharp.
All the best,
Bobby
For even the Son of man came not to be served, but to serve.
Member
If you're looking for a good workhorse right after glue-up that can take a few glue globs and need to take off more than just a few fine shavings, I always recommend something like an old Stanley #5. I got a couple at Nashua for $25, and a couple off ebay for up to $45. Save the big money for finer planes. Sharpen the iron with a camber for faster, heavier removal. There's plenty of information here on doing that. That would be the hand-tool equivalent of a belt-sander.
It also wouldn't hurt to have a second one of these with the iron sharpened straight across (with the corners rounded off to avoid plane tracks) for the finer work after using the cambered one. Thus for under $100 you could have a good pair of coarse and fine starter planes that will get you a long way on the task you need to do as well as learning how to use and evaluate them. Greasing the slope as it were. As you learn to appreciate the job they can do and start finding their limits, you won't think it's so outrageous to pay 2 or 3 hundred for a plane!
And if you get a chance to spend a couple hours with someone who can get you started on the right foot, that's priceless, worth many many hours of trial and error on your own. The humblest plane is capable of good work in knowledgeable hands, and the finest plane can do terrible work in untrained hands. Imagine putting that belt-sander in the hands of someone who's never used one and asking them to smooth down your panel.
Steve, mostly hand tools. Click on my name above and click on "Visit Homepage" to see my woodworking blog.
Member
Jim, I have 2 of the 12-137 Stanley planes you cite and like them. However, they are not for someone just beginning to use hand planes. These planes require a fair amount of cleanup/tuning to get them ready to use properly. You should seriously consider the Veritas BUJ; it will be ready to go out of the box and will teach you how a plane should perform. It would also help if you knew someone that could show you how to properly sharpen the iron. Most beginners I know equate the sharpening to tasks they have performed in the past like sharpening their knives but it is more important for this endeavor. Not difficult but important.
[OP]
Contributor
wow, lots of support. I would take Steve up on his offer, just have to find the time...yea, I know how busy can you be right.
It is overwhelming about the tools...i have the mindset to buy the best, so im 95% ready to pull the trigger on the vertias bevel up jointer plane. I will then be able to try it out, and then get some help and pointers from someone like Steve.
Thanks
[OP]
Contributor
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=62
This is the one I a getting, made in USA, over Canada.
Member
Either one is a fantastic choice. Good job! You will be very happy with your first plane. Now just make sure you have some way to get it and keep it sharp.Originally Posted by Jim Riseborough
[OP]
Contributor
what do recommend for sharpening? tehy have a kit that i could get with it
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=1-SK
Member
Careful asking that question here! Now your thread is sure to go on and on for many confusing pages. That Norton 1k/8k is perfectly suitable, and LNs sharpenign "kit" as well as their you tube videos are a great way to have sharpening success very quickly. There are better options out there then the Norton and we could easily get into yet another big long sharpening discussion here but I doubt you will find it lacking in any way. Just make sure you do some research into the best way to keep it flat as waterstone need to be flattened regularly - there are TONS on threads here about methods for flattening waterstones. I have a strong preference for using a diamond stones to keep my waterstones flat but that will run you some more money up front.
Last edited by Chris Griggs; 11-29-2012 at 10:38 AM.
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