Which jointer for general use?

[Curt Putnam]

I want to get a jointer for edge prep and to play around with stock surfacing. My work ranges in size from jewelry box sizes to larger cabinets. Initial lumber size tends to be 5/4 & ~5" wide and I tend to work with white oak, maple, and cherry. What's the practical differences between a #7, #8, and a low angle jointer (LN, etc.)? Is a 45° frog versus a 55° frog going to make a big difference given my usage?

If edge prep is the major concern, you should consider the LV Veritas BU jointer with the optional fence. Get a spare blade or two and grind them to whatever angle works for the current wood. Those same spare blades can also be used in the BU jack and smoother. That's what I did. I have Stanleys in 3,4,5 and 6 sizes and a Chaplin #8 as well as the suite of LV bevel-ups. At WIA, I watched Adam Cherubini do some phenomenal work with his woodies. They are lighter and very maneuverable as compared to a metal plane, but since they are lighter you need to put more downward pressure on them. Your bench also wants to be lower. I would not use a high angle in a jointer because the pushing is harder and you are still trying to remove stock at the jointer stage. Deneb recommends a high angle frog for the LN smoothers. In the end, all you are trying to do is to get a surface flat, longer beds will get bigger panels or boards flatter easier but all will do the job. Get a Stanley #7 or a woodie from a reputable source. If you wallet permits, get hte LV BU #7 or the LN #7.

[Greg Portland]

Some background info:
- I primarily use power tools but have started to enjoy working more with hand tools. I'm starting to make the transition (this is strictly a hobby for me).
- Until now, I've primarily used a block and shoulder plane for joint cleanup and chamfering. I have a No 3 and No 5 Craftsman (1960s vintage) that I've tuned up (and added new blades) and use them to clean up machined board edges prior to glue-up.
- I primarily use a card scraper and scraper plane for surface prep (versus sanding)
- I've played with the LN and LV jointer planes at the trade shows but that is on their "demo wood" (everything cuts great :-) ).

A few of you have mentioned that some tear out when edge jointing is OK. I assume you'll make a pass or two with a smoother prior to glue up? I had always assumed that a properly tuned plane would make a clean cut? I mean clean enough for a glue-up, not finishing?

Jim, thanks for the kind offer. I've played around with the #6,7, and 8 planes already but am trying to wrap my head around the various frog angles, BU/BD, and what is actually necessary and/or a good starting point for a beginner.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim, thanks for the kind offer. I've played around with the #6,7, and 8 planes already but am trying to wrap my head around the various frog angles, BU/BD, and what is actually necessary and/or a good starting point for a beginner.

You are welcome.

To me a lot of the frog angle and BU/BD debate is synonymous with the debate of how many angles can dance on the head of a pin.

The most important aspect of using any plane is having the blade as sharp as possible.

In the BU/BD debate, the factors to remember is the lower the blade angle, the less effort required to push the plane. On the other hand, the lower the angle, the more likely for wood to lift from wedging action in front of the blade.

The higher angle of attack is less grain direction dependent in sheering off a shaving.

My main reason for buying a Low Angle Jack was due to an old shoulder injury that limited my ability to use a shooting board.

If you get out and about, it might be good to keep an eye on places like The Restore and used tool shops. Also check prices of completed sales on ebay so you know not to pay too much. There are a few places in Portland that carry used tools.

Here is one I have been to a couple of times.

https://plus.google.com/113931947817...ut?gl=us&hl=en

The person I dealt with was pretty easy going about pricing. Bring along what you may need, magnifier, screwdriver, sandpaper, to do a good inspection. Though I am sure they have plenty of old screwdrivers their.

jtk