Bandsaw won't start... Help!

[Kathy Marshall]

I have a 14" Delta bandsaw. Today I was cutting spindle stock to length, I had just finished one piece, shut off the saw to measure the next piece, went to turn it on and nothing. First thing I checked was power, I unplugged it from the extension cord and plugged in a different tool and it was fine. Next I took the cover off the switch box and blew it out good in case there was dust on the contacts. Still nothing. I took the panel off the bottom to look for a reset switch and if there's one there I didn't see it.
Could it just be the switch itself? And is that something I can pick up from any electrical supply place?
This has put a little crimp in my day as I had just chainsawed a bunch of logs and was going to bandsaw them into blanks before sealing them .

Thanks!

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Kathy
Can you tell us any thing about your saw history? Age, wired for 120 volt or 220, factory push button switch. Any prevues problems starting? Do you have any tools and knowledge about checking for voltage? Delta's switch does load up with saw dust from my experience. You may not be able blow it out completely while still on your saw. Be careful working around HOT wires. Tom

[Myk Rian]

Get a 20 amp light switch and cover plate.
Connect the black wires to it.

[Richard Coers]

Any hum at the motor? Is the band free? Can you easily spin the wheels with the blade on? These things don't have much starting torque. If the blade guide is tight, and you are cutting wet wood, sawdust can stick on the blade and stick it in the guides. Then take the drive belt off the motor pulley, and see if the motor will start then. Could be bad bearing, but not likely. After that, hit the switch and measure if you have current at the motor.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If the motor didn't make a hum, then most likely your switch has failed. You can straight wire switch, then plug saw in. If it starts, then the switch is the problem. If it doesn't try using another cord to do above test.

[Kathy Marshall]

There is no hum at the motor and the wheels are free.

Kathy
Can you tell us any thing about your saw history? Age, wired for 120 volt or 220, factory push button switch. Any prevues problems starting? Do you have any tools and knowledge about checking for voltage? Delta's switch does load up with saw dust from my experience. You may not be able blow it out completely while still on your saw. Be careful working around HOT wires. Tom

My dad purchased it new in 2001. It's 120v with the factory switch. Never had problems starting or anything else.
I pulled out the switch to clean it better and I ended up blowing one of the contacts out , so looks like I'll need another switch control anyway.
2012-12-09_20-59-036.jpg2012-12-09_20-46-034.jpg

Get a 20 amp light switch and cover plate.
Connect the black wires to it.

Just the black wire? What would I do with the other 3 wires? Would that work as a permanent replacement switch?

Thanks!

[Richard Coers]

My bandsaw has been working on a traditional household light switch for 10+ years. The black wire is switched, but I don't understand the other 3 wires comment. In 120v wiring, you have the black (hot), white (common), and green (ground). The black line goes to the switch, then another black from the switch to the motor. The whites would be tied together, and the green goes to the frame of the machine.

[ray hampton]

My bandsaw has been working on a traditional household light switch for 10+ years. The black wire is switched, but I don't understand the other 3 wires comment. In 120v wiring, you have the black (hot), white (common), and green (ground). The black line goes to the switch, then another black from the switch to the motor. The whites would be tied together, and the green goes to the frame of the machine.

I agree with Richard

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Kathy
Both black wires go to your switch on different terminals 120 volt, Both white wires should be wired together using a wire nut. Green wire is ground and is attached to metal frame of bandsaw. As Myk posted use a 20 amp light switch. Tom

[Lee Schierer]

I had the same switch on my saw it failed during the second year. Replacement parts were not available for that switch. I was able to find a replacement switch that was not by Delta that it now runs with. Sorry, I don't remember exactly where I got it. As I recall I searched the web and located an engineer at Carling who graciously sent me a sample switch that I was able to adapt to the existing switch box. The only number I could find on my switch was 02A0204.

There is no hum at the motor and the wheels are free.

My dad purchased it new in 2001. It's 120v with the factory switch. Never had problems starting or anything else.
I pulled out the switch to clean it better and I ended up blowing one of the contacts out , so looks like I'll need another switch control anyway.
2012-12-09_20-59-036.jpg2012-12-09_20-46-034.jpg

Just the black wire? What would I do with the other 3 wires? Would that work as a permanent replacement switch?

Thanks!

[Myk Rian]

I also had to replace a Delta switch. Looked through the Grainger catalog for one, but had to do it by the size of the switch casing.
Finally found one, but the switch wasn't quite up to the amp rating I was looking for.
That's why I suggest a 20 amp light switch. Cheap.
As stated, the white wires are removed from the present switch and tied together. Green goes to ground, and the 2 black wires go to the switch.
Get a single pole, single throw (SPST) switch.

[paul cottingham]

My delta table saw did much the same thing, except that it wont turn off. The 20Amp switch is a fine idea. I feel really dumb that i didn't think of it.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Better yet, the Borgs carry a 20 amp motor switch that appears to look like a light switch, but it has heavier contacts for larger start up current. Not much more than a light switch. It's labeled 'motor ' on the box and switch

[Kathy Marshall]

Thanks for all the suggestions!
It was the switch. There's a Grainger just down the road from the office, so I took the old switch with me and they were able to match it up. I just pulled the on/off button off and the switch snapped right on to my Delta on/off switch, it has the same ratings as the original switch.
As for the wires, the switch had 4 wires connected to it, 1 black, 1 white, 1 orange and 1 red (the green was attached to the inside of the switch box. So I didn't have 2 black and 2 white to connect together and I really don't like to mess with electrical unless I'm sure what goes where.

[Curt Harms]

Glad you got it working. If the saw could be wired either 120 or 240, it should have both sets of wires switched because both are hot when wired 240 volts. I think you can switch just one wire of a 240 volt circuit and it'll work but it's a BAD idea, there's always power to the motor even when the switch is "off".