Top For Base Cabinets in Woodshop..

[George Bokros]

I am just completing a run of base cabinets in my shop. For the top I am considering using 3/4" MDF base with tempered hardboard for the top so it is easily replaceable if needed.

What are your recommendations for a top for these cabinets? MDF is dusty to saw and therefore I am not excited about using it as the base. If I do use MDF for the base how would you recommend I attach a hardwood edging to it?

Will BORG rip cut it for me? Will BORG make numerous cuts for me so all I have to do is load drop it into place when I get home? What about the off cuts, 4X8 sheets with me taking ~25" for the width of the top leaves 23" scrap, how do I use that of other parts of the top. The top will be 10 1/4 feet to the corner cabinet then around for another ~2".

Thanks

George

[Jim Riseborough]

Why dont you do 24" with a hardwood edging or a piece in the back like a backsplash that makes up the diff.

[Mike Wilkins]

I used a double layer of MDF with a 1/4" Oak hardwood edge for a shop cabinet. I used glue and staples driven with a pneumatic stapler to apply the edgebanding. It has held up fine.

[Todd Burch]

MDF sheets are sold 49" X 97".

I wouldn't trust the borg with making a countertop-quality cut. No way, Jose. They could rip a sheet for you (unless their policies prohibits them from cutting MDF), but even so, the quality of MDF at the borg is terrible.

I used maple ply for my tops, and edged them with 2" wide x 1.5" thick mahogany with a full bullnose, and mitered them on the corners, attached with 1/4" ply splines and glued in place. Tight fitting splines really help with alignment, so very little sanding needs to be done to the joint (and thus, no fear of sanding through the ply's veneer). Biscuits will work too, but I prefer splines cut via a 3-wing router cutter.

On a cost-per-foot basis, plywood is a great price/performer.

BTW, my tops are getting close to 20 years old, and if I maintain the same amount of abuse as they get today, I figure they will have another 40 years of life. (which, is more than me!)

Todd

[Jim Neeley]

George,

The BORG will cut your wood but (at least mine) has a sign disclaiming any accuracy. I'd have them cut it oversize and then trim.

Uses: Templates, spacers, stop-blocks, sub-base for routing (sacrificial), under stock on drill press to get clean exit holes, jigs, clamping cauls.

[scott vroom]

+1 on maple ply as a base. I pay $38/sheet for domestic shop grade maple 49" x 97" and no surface voids. You won't find it at the big box stores, go to your local hardwood supplier.

1/4" hardboard screwed is a good choice for a finished surface....cheap and easy to replace yearly or whatever.

[Dave Parkis]

I have the BORG cut mdf panels and its fine. I much prefer the dust be in the air there rather than everywhere in my shop. In this application, I would have them rip it at 24 1/2", double it up so its 1 1/2" thick, trim with a flush trim router bit, glue some formica on the top and then glue/clamp some 1 1/2" wide hardwood edging on. Once the glue is dry for the edging, set the top in place and you're good to go.

[Bruce Wrenn]

When Norm built his back bench and miter saw station some years back, he used 3/4 ply topped with 1/4" tempered hardboard. Hardboard was screwed in place. HD sell some "cabinet grade" stuff for about $30 that's made in South America. It's good stuff.

[George Bokros]

I think I am going to use 3/4" melamine board for the top. I will build up the edges to 1 1/2" and face with oak and use oak for like a back splash like Jim suggested (first reply). I can get it for $30 a sheet and will need one and half sheets. They (local home center not a BORG) will slit it for me for a labor charge, minimum of $15.

How does this sound.

George

[scott vroom]

I think I am going to use 3/4" melamine board for the top. I will build up the edges to 1 1/2" and face with oak and use oak for like a back splash like Jim suggested (first reply). I can get it for $30 a sheet and will need one and half sheets. They (local home center not a BORG) will slit it for me for a labor charge, minimum of $15.

How does this sound.

George

I'd think twice before installing MDF or particle board as a base. The time may come when you need to attach a fixture/jig to the bench and a plywood substrate will perform far better at holding screws than MDF/particle board. For example, my plywood substrate bench has pre-drilled holes for 1/4" lag screws that secure my dovetail jig in place when I'm making drawer boxes.

[George Bokros]

Scott this is a counter top not a bench top. I would not use MDF or particle board for a bench top.

[scott vroom]

Scott this is a counter top not a bench top. I would not use MDF or particle board for a bench top.

Ya never know - shops have a way of morphing over time. Might come a day when you need to put screws into the "counter top"...A plywood substrate is cheap insurance and easier to work with than the nasty dusty stuff. Your shop, your money, your call

[Hovey Moore]

I would think twice about melamine. It is slippery and tends to scratch easily and then it looks terrible. Also melamine is normally particle board which is fairly weak. I usually use two layers of MDF (glued and nailed together with some brads) if I want a cheap/sturdy cabinet top.

[Roy Turbett]

I have 1 1/8" thick particle board on one of my benches and its held up well for 15 years. I bought mine through Plywood Detroit but its also available in 6' lengths at Menards. I built Norms shop cabinets and used 3/4 ply topped with 1/4" hardboard on two other benches and its holding up pretty well. If I had to do it over, I'd have gone with the 1 1/8 particle board and topped it with 1/4" hardboard. I also have a 4' x 8' melamine outfeed table on my Unisaw that gets replaced every 5-6 years. I like it because its slippery and sheet goods slide well on it. Its also easy to clean up excess glue. I just let it dry and scrape it off. My "Mr. Sawdust" RAS table is made out of MDF and works well. In short, I don't think there's a bad choice.

[George Bokros]

I am going to use 3/4" birch ply for the top built up around the edges with common ply and face it with oak to match the cabinets. Cabinets are finished with MinWax Natural stain and water borne poly. I plan to finish the birch top natural with the same poly. I know the solvent borne poly is more durable but I don't want the amber color it imparts.