Question for drum sander users

[Dave Parkis]

I recently acquired a performax 16-32 sander and I'm curious as to how difficult it is to replace the sandpaper on the drum. Also, do you usually stay with one grit? Would it make sense to try to find a deal on a second drum so that I could just swap out the drum when I want to change grit? Thanks!!

[Victor Robinson]

Replacing the sandpaper isn't difficult, but it does take doing it a few times to get the hang of the clip on the motor side of the drum. Definitely learn to do it before you have to change the sandpaper during a project. I don't have any bookmarked, but I've seen more than one video documenting the procedure on YouTube.

I usually keep 120 grit in my sander. The scratches left by anything coarser I find are really tough to remove. With 120grit, the scratches are removed with 80g on the ROS. For me, 120 is a good balance between stock removal and finish, but then again I don't ask my sander to do much, if any, dimensioning. At the most I'm sneaking up on a fit. If I'm looking to finish sand larger panels and want to try to minimize my ROS time, I'll switch to 220. But for me it's 120 95% of the time.

Having a second drum is an interesting idea...but I think switching the drum would be harder than the paper. What you're really wanting is a dual drum sander.

[John Coloccia]

It takes me about 5 minutes to change the paper, and that includes cutting the new paper to length and tapering it. Maybe 10 minutes if I'm taking my time. I only use mine to level and thickness, so I keep 80 on mine all the time. I actually us heavy duty Abranet, and it lasts FOREVER compared to regular sandpaper.

Changing the drum is not even an option so don't spend a second thinking about it. Paper changes are trivial.

[Victor Robinson]

It takes me about 5 minutes to change the paper, and that includes cutting the new paper to length and tapering it. Maybe 10 minutes if I'm taking my time. I only use mine to level and thickness, so I keep 80 on mine all the time. I actually us heavy duty Abranet, and it lasts FOREVER compared to regular sandpaper.

Changing the drum is not even an option so don't spend a second thinking about it. Paper changes are trivial.

Ooo tell us about Abranet on a drum sander. How much pricier are the rolls?

[John Coloccia]

Ooo tell us about Abranet on a drum sander. How much pricier are the rolls?

Not sure. They're pricey, but they last FAR longer. Very cost effective, and more importantly they don't cra....er....poop out in the middle of a job. No burning....no clogging. You have to get the heavy duty rolls, but I won't go back to regular sandpaper. In fact, I have the Grizzly velcro kit and I'm going to try that as soon as this strip wears out...but it hasn't worn out yet

[Dick Mahany]

It takes me about 3-4 minutes to change paper on a 22-44, but took me about 4 times before I figured it out, The open end side clip is super easy, but the motor side clip took some fiddling with until I got it since it is a little hard to see. Now I don't hesitate to change papers at all. I use 36 rarely for sizing, usually keep 80 on the drum for most purposes, and use 100-120 occasionally. I have a few finer grits, but have never tried them since I've managed to burn up a few 180 grit rolls rather quickly, but attribute that to operator error/technique rather than tool capability.

I got one of those Jet Tough Tools, and finally figured out how to use it and it works well for me.

I'm intrigued by John's Abranet comment and now must try it!

[keith micinski]

I bought a pair of 90 degree bend needle nose pliers to stick the paper down in the clip on the motor side. Why on Earth they put the spring loaded clip on the motor side is one of the biggest mysteries of life.it would be so much easier to change the paper out if the spring loaded clip was on the outside.

[David Kumm]

When you change the paper and engage the clip, make sure it is under tension. I tear off the last 1" or so from the pointed end so when the clip is under tension the end doesn't hang up inside the drum. Turn on the drum and run something through it and then check the wrap and retension if needed. Sometimes the wrap will loosen a little and the edges then overlap- guaranteed burn. Dave

[Robert Chapman]

I bought a pair of 90 degree bend needle nose pliers to stick the paper down in the clip on the motor side. Why on Earth they put the spring loaded clip on the motor side is one of the biggest mysteries of life.it would be so much easier to change the paper out if the spring loaded clip was on the outside.

+1 on this suggestion. Us the bent needle nose pliers to pull the tail of the paper down tight on the motor side while you are holding the clip open with your finger.

[Dave Cav]

I have a Woodmaster and I now usually run 100 - 120 grit as I use it for a sander, not a planer, and as another poster mentioned, scratches from coarser grits are really difficult to remove.

[Rick Potter]

I also have a Woodmaster, and use 100 almost all the time. ROS from there. This works well with the oak I normally use.

Rick Potter

[Scott C. Williams]

120 grit is my primary sandpaper. Installation of paper is not a problem. The problem I have is the tracking of the conveyer sandpaper belt. It tracks to the sander's outboard side and unless re-adjusted will rub the conveyer frame. Not time consuming but frustrating to deal with.

[Cary Falk]

120 grit stays in my drum sander.

[Dave Parkis]

Thanks very much. I guess I'll get some 120. Hopefully, we'll get a link to the 120 grit Abranet I don't mind spending more if its going to mean I have to change the paper less often.

[John Coloccia]

Thanks very much. I guess I'll get some 120. Hopefully, we'll get a link to the 120 grit Abranet I don't mind spending more if its going to mean I have to change the paper less often.

I don't believe it comes 120G. 40g , 60g and 80g is all I've ever seen.