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Thread: Help with bloodwood running/bleeding?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Jackson Ga.
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    Help with bloodwood running/bleeding?

    I have a small vase, with maple being the main wood but on top ring is bloodwood. Every time I put a finsh the bloodwood runs red down on the maple.How can I get it to stop running ? Thanks

  2. #2
    You might try wiping down with mineral spirits or even acetone before applying finish. Bloodwood in and of itself shouldn't 'run' but perhaps micro fine sanding dust would. That's my guess.

    And 'a mighty fine welcome to the creek.'
    Last edited by Damon Stathatos; 12-10-2012 at 9:12 PM.
    Sierra Madre Sawing and Milling
    Sierra Madre, California

  3. #3
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    Jackson Ga.
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    I'll try that in the morning.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Goodland, Kansas
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    22,605
    Welcome to SMC Chip. What kind of finish are you using on the piece? I have found that blowing the piece off and then using rattle can lacquer. If you spray with light coats letting it dry for 20 to 30 minutes between coats until it has 3 or 4 light coats that will keep it from bleeding the color. I use the same method with spray poly.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  5. #5
    Hold it upside down while you're applying the finish and keep it that way until it dries. After the first coat you should be OK.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    DUH! Curt, then the maple will run into the Bloodwood!

    Chip, Curt's idea will work if all else fails. However Damon and Bernie touched on a point. You likely have dust still trapped in the Bloodwood from sanding. Blowing that out (with the lathe running) ought to eliminate your problem. Though, if it doesn't, Bernie's suggestion that you seal it with some very light coats is probably your best bet. If you are getting "running" of color, I would say your application of finish is too thick. But without knowing what you are applying, how you are applying it, and without being there, it is hard to tell...
    I drink, therefore I am.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cruz View Post
    DUH! Curt, then the maple will run into the Bloodwood!

    Chip, Curt's idea will work if all else fails. However Damon and Bernie touched on a point. You likely have dust still trapped in the Bloodwood from sanding. Blowing that out (with the lathe running) ought to eliminate your problem. Though, if it doesn't, Bernie's suggestion that you seal it with some very light coats is probably your best bet. If you are getting "running" of color, I would say your application of finish is too thick. But without knowing what you are applying, how you are applying it, and without being there, it is hard to tell...
    Mike, I really wasn't trying to be a smart ***. With the little bloodwood I've turned, mostly in ornaments, the red pigment in the wood seems to dissolve with the solvents in oil finishes or lacquer. You can watch it flow in the finish. Holding it upside down really is what I've had to do to prevent it. One coat seems to fix it and then I can apply more coats with no problem. It also works when applying CA to bark on natural edge bowls, especially black walnut, to keep the pigments from staining the sapwood.

  8. #8
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    Curt, I was just trying to be funny. I think your idea of turning it upside down is perfect. Sorry that I seemed to have been mocking you. Not my intention at all...
    I drink, therefore I am.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Washington state
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    Are you sure you have bloodwood? I've never had that problem with bloodwood, not even in the slightest degree. I've had problems with African padauk bleeding out profusely, though. When I'm doing segmented turning with AP, I apply a thin, wipe on coat of lacquer to seal it then spray successive coats and I don't have a problem.

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