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Thread: Which to get: new Grizzly G0690 or used Rockwell Unisaw or used Powermatic 66?

  1. #16
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    I would go for a Powermatic 66 first as I think it's the best in it's class. It's probably going to cost you about the same as a new Grizzly though. Second up would be the Unisaw, good quality saws that will do just about everything you need. One of these can ideally cost roughly half or a little more than what the Grizzly runs for. Of course prices for used machines vary wildly so hard to really give any accurate valuations. I'd go with the Grizzly last as I'm just not a fan of the light Asian imports....just personal preference though.

    Oh and one thing you may want to look deeper into if your looking at the Unisaw. My understanding is that Delta is no longer supporting the older saws, so finding parts like the often changed arbors for instance, may get and more and more difficult over time? I haven't looked into it any further, but I'll have to soon as the bearings in mine have passed their prime

    good luck,
    JeffD

  2. Own a G0651 and I have to agree with Milind in every respect. I really think it all depends on whether you want new or used. All are excellent saws.....

  3. #18
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    I'd buy Zayd's PM 66 in a heartbeat, even if it had to be shipped. Dave

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Richardson View Post
    Own a G0651 and I have to agree with Milind in every respect. I really think it all depends on whether you want new or used. All are excellent saws.....
    Agree also, except I have the G0691, and I don't agree that a dust shroud is necessarily better although I don't know that having never used a saw with one. I would not want a port high up under the table because anything getting by would just accumulate in the bottom of the cabinet. I have mine connected to a cyclone and only get some sawdust in the corners with a modified 6" lower dust port.
    But, everything else stated in Milind's post I agree with very much.

    I thought I wanted a PM 66, but eventually decided a riving knife was more important than I originally felt. I had no problem then choosing Grizzly as I'm close enough to go look at their stuff before purchasing. Have been very happy with this saw (and Shark Guard). If money were not a concern then maybe I would have bought a SawStop, but that's another conversation.

  5. #20
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    I won't post long here, just did in another TS new/used thread here. The line about the 691 in my signature says it all. If something happened to it and I needed to replace it, I wouldn't hesitate to get another one. I helped a fellow Creeker set up his 1023R series saw a little over a year ago and can attest to it's quality as well, but the 691 is still the right one for me. I also had an issue with my saw when received, the extension table was bruised hard on one corner. Grizzly was great to work with on correcting it, and even agreed to send me some casters instead of a new extension table top. I made a longer extension, to fit with moving the rails to the right, and cut a bevel to match the front of the cast iron table. Pleased me to no end!! Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
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  6. #21
    I will be the odd man out and say I wouldn't even consider getting an older UNI or 66. I hear about how this saw will outlast my life ( why do you care your dead) and then I hear about how hard or easy it is to get parts. If it will outlast you then why do you need to get parts for it? Everything needs maintained and worn parts replaced over time depending on how much it was used and how well it was cared for. You will know neither of these facts about a used saw on craigslist. Also as far as the "Lightweight Asian" saws go all three weigh around 500-550. I am not sure how an extra 50 pounds or 10 percent should be a deciding factor in buying a saw. The table saw is the key to your entire woodworking shop and tuning up someone else's worn out saw that was supposed to "last them a lifetime" and still ending up with a saw that doesn't have good dust collection, doesn't have a riving knife, which is a big deal by the way, doesn't have a serpentine belt, and doesn't have a warranty or consistent factory support. By the way you can get a 3hp Leeson or Marathon and maybe even a Baldor for about 350 bucks. If your motor goes out on you ten years form now and you have to replace it with a superior motor your probably in the same boat or better then the 1970's unisaw that you had to do the same thing to a year after you bought it. I always hear about trunions and how thick they are. Do a search for saws needing trunions replaced and see what you come up with. The only statement I agree with against a grizzly is that you are going to take a loss on it buying it new. I like buying good old tools in big part because you can usually sell them for what you paid for. That having been said if you get a used uni or 66 your probably going to be ok and get a pretty good saw. I just wouldn't go that way.

  7. #22
    After writing all of that I just happened to look in the classifieds and I was wrong about one thing. There is a 66 in there that I would absolutely buy

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith micinski View Post
    After writing all of that I just happened to look in the classifieds and I was wrong about one thing. There is a 66 in there that I would absolutely buy
    Keith, if Zayd hasn't sold the saw yet it isn't because we aren't talking about it. Dave

  9. #24
    I really feel like an ass because I like that saw so much, I was just trying to figure out some reason on why I needed a second cabinet saw.

  10. #25
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    The basic design of the cabinet saw is pretty mature. So the difference between saws is going to be based on quality. How much quality one requires is obviously a personal choice. After all, everyone eventually brushes up against the point of diminishing returns. IMO, I would not own a saw that does not have a riving knife and DC. The PM66 is an industrial grade saw. If you plan on running the saw for 8-12 hours a day, then the PM66 is a good choice. I prefer the safety features of the riving knife and DC (yes, DC is a safety feature) over production grade tooling.
    Last edited by Greg Peterson; 01-03-2013 at 10:04 AM.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith micinski View Post
    I really feel like an ass because I like that saw so much, I was just trying to figure out some reason on why I needed a second cabinet saw.
    I run a Rockwell 12 as a second saw . The guilt will go away. Dave

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith micinski View Post
    I really feel like an ass because I like that saw so much, I was just trying to figure out some reason on why I needed a second cabinet saw.
    Your problem is not finding a reason for a second saw....it's thinking that you need a reason for a second saw

    My problem......not having the space for a third saw! But that will only hold me back for so long. Too much good used equipment out there to hold out for very long


    JeffD who's both growing, and buying, older and older

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