Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Bowling pin into lamps-101

  1. #1

    Bowling pin into lamps-101

    IMG_5292.JPGIMG_5289.JPGIMG_5295.JPGIMG_5303.JPGIMG_5284.JPGIMG_5280.JPGIMG_5308.JPGIMG_5300.JPGHi to all,


    I hope everyone recieved what you ordered form Santa. Following is some info concerning bowling pin lamps and assorted sundries you can make from them. On a scroll saw forum, a teacher was asked to come up with some ideas for their wood shop class. I remember back in the 1950's in our shop classes we would convert bowling pins into lamps for our mom's and they were fun to make and mom really loved them. Fast forward to today and I mentioned the lamp projects. I told CP to check with his local bowling alleys and see if he could secure some pins. The pins were usually free and in recent times, some alleys are given credit back on new pins recycling the old ones. I called my local alley and was informed that they did in fact give them away to anyone wanting them. The manager said that all the pins he gives away are used by hunters for target practice and never heard of anyone making lamps from them.
    As stated by one scroller he said that it was dangerous and that you must be extremely careful removing the outer plastic covering. He is absolutely correct if you do not follow a few essential practices. The primary problem is SPEED. Speed is not needed in order to remove the cover. I had an old craftsman lathe and could not slow it down enough to safely work on the pin. Since I wanted to upgrade my lathe, I opted for the Delta Midi and with it's low speed setting of 200 RPM's, is well suited for the task. A few pics follow this tutorial and anyone who can add to my basics, by all means, please jump right in.
    I start out by making sure all safety gear is on or in place. I begin by making thin cuts in the covering with my parting tool. You want to feed the tool in slowly and allow the tool to just break into the wood. Make a series of cuts about 1" apart the entire length of the pin. You will wind up with a lot of plastic thread shavings and need to remove them before proceeding to removing the plastic bands you just created with the parting tool. Now you can use your skew and across each band removing them as you go along. The covering is not glued to the pin, but, sometimes a part of the covering will stick to the pin and will require a little pulling to release it. Some of the widest bands can be pushed to the rear or top of the pin and will come off when you remove the pin from the lathe. You are now ready to let your imagination run wild. The newer pins in recent years are recycled maple from the hardwood floor industry that is laminated and then shaped/covered. Older pins, say 1960's and earlier were made from solid stock. You can pay upwards of $35-50 for these antique pins on e-bay. I make lamps, candle holder's, desk pencil cups holders, pen turning blanks and mallets from my pins. I am sure someone can think of additional uses. Anyway, I hope the preceeding may inspire a few of you turners to start recycling the pins, if available, from your local alley. They come 10 to the case and I have received several cases with an offer for more if I want. Chow for now and best wishes for the coming new year.

    Rodney

  2. #2
    Thanks for the post. I used to make mallets from bowling pins. Then the local sheriff discovered they makegreat targets. Then the bowling alley started charging for them. Then the pinsI did buy were hollow! Hollow bowling pins? Sad face….
    Just cut off the parts that don't look like a bowl...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kapolei Hawaii
    Posts
    3,236
    Yes, they have voids. I discovered that plunging my parting tool into the pin. It killed my parting tool and kicked me back pretty hard. Be careful!

    My pin......

    pin 001.jpgpin 002.jpg
    Last edited by Kyle Iwamoto; 12-31-2012 at 12:55 PM. Reason: add photo

  4. #4
    Kyle and Larry,

    Yes, the voids are a drawback, and I find them mostly in the bottom 20% of the pin. Knowing about the void's would negate a plunging cut. Remember about speed. If I am not sure about the core of any object, I may saw the object and remove any wood which would be discarded. This way, the void/s may be revealed and allow me to make a different approach. Maybe I might run a fostner bit down througth the center. I would have a lot of control on the tailstock and then begin to remove wood if the core looks good. Kyle it's certain that your experience with the pins sharpened your resolve to slow down and take it easy. Glad to hear that the only damage was to the skew and not to you. Lucky you were not using a bowl gouge.


    Rodney

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    If you had "extras", it might be a good idea to split a pin with a bandsaw to determine the hollow area profile to determine best use of the pins. You would need to clamp the pin with a wooden handscrew clamp or some other way before cutting. Sounds like some good material if free.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •