Drawer boxes with 1/2" BB - how to join?

[Geoff Barry]

I'm in the process of making a dresser, and have some 1/2" BB for making the drawer boxes (there will be a false front). I was thinking half-blind DTs, but have had such tearout that I suspect that's not the best way to go. 1/2" seems a bit thin for a lock-rabbit, too. I could just use regular rabbits and a brad nailer, but that seems kind of crude. Alternatively, I could do a lock rabbit with a 3/4" BB front and a simple rabbit on the back. And, of course, I could simply forget about using 1/2" BB, and look for some 1/2" maple or pine, but I'd kind of like to use the BB . . .

So do you use 1/2 BB for drawer boxes, and, if so, how do you join the sides together?

[Matthew Bradburn]

I'm currently using 12mm Apple Ply for drawer box sides, joined simply with #10 biscuits. I've done lock-rabbets in the past but the biscuits are faster and seem to work well enough. I've done dovetails for solid wood sides but don't really see the point for plywood -- at this point we've admitted that it's a product of technology and we can forgo some of the traditions. :-)

[Tom Blank]

I have used 1/2" Baltic Birch on drawer boxes (with a false front) for some shop cabinet drawers using Whiteside's WS 3347 Locking Drawer Glue Joint router bit on the front end and either a rabbet or a butt joing with screws on the back end. They are holding up so far. It took a bit to figure out the set-up the first time, but once it’s right it is a nice fitting joint.

Holbren honors a discount for SMC contributors.

Tom



Tom

[Jamie Buxton]

Yeah, dovetails don't work well in plywood. I just use a lock rabbet, cutting the entire joint on the tablesaw. If you're using an applied front, you don't need 3/4" plywood for the drawer-box front -- 1/2" will do just fine.

[Richard McComas]

The locking rabbit is the joint of choice for myself when use 1/2'' BB Plywood. In my opinion and experience there's enough thickness in the 1/2'' to make a good drawer.

If I have many to do I'll set up the shaper and keep the tongue between the table and the cutter for consistence thickness.

[Brian Brightwell]

Would a box joint work for you. I find it simple and strong for plywood.

[Mark Wooden]

Richards method is easy and reliable. I have a lot of drawers built with that joint and no failures for over 10 yeears

[Eric DeSilva]

Got a domino, by chance? I'm doing some drawers with 12mm BB and just punching some 5mm dominos through the sides into the fronts/backs. I have to flush saw the excess that pokes out, but it seems quite strong and even has a bit of decorative flair.

[Todd Burch]

I use box joints exclusively for drawer boxes. Never, EVER, have had a failure and I've built hundreds of drawers over the last 20+ years.

Probably overkill.

I've seen, too many times, 1/2" BB drawers, butt joined and nailed on roller slides, and they seem to be working fine. Go figure.

Todd

[Cary Falk]

I have been using a locking rabbit also. I have draw lock bit that I want to try but the rabbit is pretty easy.

[George Bokros]

I have used both lock rabbit and drawer lock router bits successfully but i always score the baltic birch with a utility knife to minimize the tearout.

[Peter Quinn]

I've used tongue and rabbit joints, a drawer lock cutter.. Finger joints, biscuits, and pocket screws all successfully, depends on the application and budget for me. If they are running on slides strength is less a concern, so almost anything will do. Finger joints are the strongest IMo

[Dave Novak]

I recently built my grandson a large lego play-table using 1/2" BB joined entirely with dominoes. fast, easy and strong.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I've made several hundred drawers out of Baltic Birch or Apple Ply and I used dovetails on all of them. I've never had an issue dovetailing either one of these plywoods.

[Hovey Moore]

I don't like lock miter joints because they look too much like they were made at a factory, plenty strong and serviceable though. Glue and brads is plenty strong enough, but admittedly not very pretty. Did this for thousands of drawers when I worked at a cabinet shop. Locking rabbit joints are simple, strong, and easy to make. I find that you have to score BB to cut through dovetails without bad tear out but that is easy enough to do. But my current method is to use my half blind router jig as it is quick and any tear out is hidden inside the joint. Plus you get a good chuckle when people admire your dovetails. Lacking a dovetail jig I would go with finger joints if the piece is for show, and a locking rabbit if not. Both are pretty fast and look nice.