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Thread: Drawer boxes with 1/2" BB - how to join?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,770
    I really like the look of finger joints for BB drawers, and have used them often. A simpler yet strong and very attractive option is a simple butt joint, or rabbeted joint at the front if not using a false front. After the glue sets go back and drill holes for dowels of your choice, at whatever spacing pleases you, glue them in, and then cut them off and plane/sand flush.

    John

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Boulder, CO
    Posts
    112
    Thanks, all, I appreciate the input. I may experiement a little more wit DTs and a backing board, but otherwise I'm leaning toward a rabit of some sort. I'm building this dresser as a test run, so I guess one of the things I now know is that next time I'll build the drawers out of solid stock

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
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    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard McComas View Post
    The locking rabbit is the joint of choice for myself when use 1/2'' BB Plywood.
    +1 on the "drawer-lock" joint. I use the tablesaw or a task specific router bit with equal success. My 1/2" BB ply shop drawers are done this way and have been in daily service for years. Here's an example of 1/2" ash and 1/2" BB ply done with the task specific router bit:

    Drawerlock done.jpg . 2nd drawer unit 005.jpg
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 01-07-2013 at 5:34 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    180
    To prevent splintering and blowouts on the BB you might try climb cutting. That's how I just did forty drawers and pullouts with only a couple of oops.

    I think solid stock, especially for a dresser is the best choice.
    Larry

  5. Quote Originally Posted by Geoff Barry View Post
    Thanks, all, I appreciate the input. I may experiement a little more wit DTs and a backing board, but otherwise I'm leaning toward a rabit of some sort. I'm building this dresser as a test run, so I guess one of the things I now know is that next time I'll build the drawers out of solid stock
    Dove tails in ply are a piece of cake! All of these were made from 1/2" plywood bought at Home Depot. No blowouts!
    002 (3).jpg003 (2).jpg4-19-10 008.jpg

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Springfield, IL
    Posts
    412
    Guess I just don't get it. If your making "heirloom quality" furniture I'd use solid wood and dovetail the drawers. For plywood drawers, why aren't biscuits or dominos just fine? Plenty strong, not ugly, and easy.
    Last edited by Dave Novak; 01-07-2013 at 11:19 PM. Reason: Spelling

  7. #22
    Why not use BB for heirloom furniture? Surely modern techniques and materials have a place in fine furniture. How many fine antiques have sticky drawers because the makers didn't have the option to use more stable materials like plywood?

    I use pocket screws and glue for my plywood drawers. Once you mount the false front and install the drawer their not visible at all.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Battle Ground, WA.
    Posts
    594
    + 1 on the Domino very fast, easy, and decorative. Tom

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    If I'm doing BB drawers I do pocket hole screws.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    This is a personal decision based on ability, tooling, convenience, and personal aesthetics. Dovetails work with a good backer, sharp bit, and taking it a little slower. Box joints are quick and easy (especially if you have an I-BOX ), but all the joints and methods mentioned in this thread, including the special locking drawer joints and lock miter joints if you take the care and time to set them properly, will work fine.

    I dovetailed all my shop drawer boxes that were made with big box store 1/2" ply- not Baltic Birch, but the kind with more laminations than regular ply but with relatively brittle surface veneer.








  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Milltown Indiana
    Posts
    300
    Good job Alan. Nice looking cabinets for not a lot invested. I got my base cabinets out of the dumpster at work. So I didn't get all the practice you did.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Brightwell View Post
    Good job Alan. Nice looking cabinets for not a lot invested. I got my base cabinets out of the dumpster at work. So I didn't get all the practice you did.
    The solid wood was almost free- white oak harvested when they cleared trees from my lot prior to building my house.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA
    Posts
    1,311
    I just use fiinger joints. There is so much surface area to hold the glue that they cannot move.

    My hardwood supplier has 1/2" by 8" or 12" by 60" pre-finished baltic birch pieces for use as drawer sides. The sides have a bullnose roundover before finishing. They work great for drawer sides and save the finishing step. Cut them in half for 4" or 6" tall drawers.

    Steve

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