Proper setup includes the screw geometry. The hole position should be such as the screw threads do not traverse the joint once tight. Solving for this parameter solved my "pulled out of line" issues.
Proper setup includes the screw geometry. The hole position should be such as the screw threads do not traverse the joint once tight. Solving for this parameter solved my "pulled out of line" issues.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
I built most of my shop cabinets using the Kreg jig, and here is what worked well for me.
i put a light skim of glue on the joint, then clamp it as if it were a traditional joint. Once I am confident that everything is aligned, I drive the screws. The glue sets enough to help prevent any creep. I use parallel clamps for the clamping.
Member
I've actually found that turing the screw faster with light pressure to allow it to drill out some of the waste helps. You can tell when it starts to bite, then slow the speed and add pressure to drive the screw. You may also need to use parafin wax on the screws for hard wood to prevent splitting. I had a lot of trouble with splitting hard maple faceframes at the ends of the stiles with pocket screws until I started doing these things.
Mike
Member
I gave up on Kreg alignment a long time ago - if I am going to use pocket hole screws I ALWAYS use a domino to maintain registration - a biscuit would server the same purpose if you do not have a festool domino.
Take a look at the diagram in Glenn Bradley's post above.Originally Posted by John Adank
Also, no offense to Festool, but most factory settings on saws are just close. Do a tune up on the saw and check that it is cutting square in all regards. Cut to thick pieces of hard wood on the same side of the blade. Then flip one around end for end and bring the cut ends together on a flat surface. If you see any gap at all the saw is not cutting at 90 degrees..
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 01-15-2013 at 8:12 PM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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I heard and read about so many people saying they no longer use their dowel or biscuit joiners after getting a pocket hole jig. I'm not convinced pocket screws are the ultimate solution. Biscuits give me some play for alignment, dowels if done right provide dead on accuracy. I do like not having to clamp and wait for glue to dry when using biscuits or dowels but typically I don't move things around much right after fastening anyway. I feel like I'm cheating using pocket screws.All three tools (don't own a domino) have their place.
Last edited by Todd Brewer; 01-15-2013 at 8:13 PM.
Member
[QUOTE=Todd Brewer;2039189]I heard and read about so many people saying they no longer use their dowel or biscuit joiners after getting a pocket hole jig. I'm not convinced pocket screws are the ultimate solution. Biscuits give me some play for alignment, dowels if done right provide dead on accuracy. I do like not having to clamp and wait for glue to dry when using biscuits or dowels but typically I don't move things around much right after fastening anyway. I feel like I'm cheating using pocket screws.
All 4 tools have their place - I completely agree.
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
Member
Buy a Robertson screwdriver and try hand driving the screws on small pieces. You'll be amazed at how well it works.
Also, I don't think you need to crank down on anything that hard, just clamp a small stop block in place to prevent creep on a 90º joint.
Moderator
In addition to clamping properly, which is #1, I drive the first screw only about 3/4 the way through, then to drive the 2nd (and others) all the way thru. The joint will be pulled tight but not out of position.
Member
i use the kreg only for building jigs and stuff that doesn't need to be spot-on accurate. i use the PC pocket drilling machine for everything else and have noted a marked improvement in accuracy of my joinery.
Member
Just watched a video on the PC jig. It's a different looking/style of jig but in the end it still drills angled holes just like the Kreg (as far as I can tell). I don't understand how it improves joint accuracy. Seems to me you still need to securely clamp the pieces. The video was of the PC jig not the machine. But doesn't a machine, be it PC or Kreg or other brand, simply speed up the drilling process by saving the time of having to pick up a drill? Please explain how a pocket hole machine vs. the portable jigs helps when it comes to screwing the two pieces of wood together.
Last edited by Todd Brewer; 01-16-2013 at 9:17 PM.
Guest
If it's the machine I'm thinking about, the Porter cable pocket machine is a small castle pocket holer. There have been heated "Ford-Chevy" style debates on other sites about the relative merits of kreg vs castle. There are others as well. I have a kreg pnumatic pocket holer, and can tell you that the big advantage is speed, and almost zero effort. Basically, you can drill a hole in just a couple of seconds by hitting a foot switch. So a board with two holes at each end takes maybe 10 seconds. It drills about the same hole as the jig though, but no fumbling around with the clamp and drill.
If you wanted to do real production, the other side of it is a pnumatic clamping table. Basically the two would work together to make faceframes very quickly, and it seems that the good clamps and solid table would not allow for much movement.
Basically, to sum up the castle vs kreg debate, you choose loud, long, neat hole in a complex machine (castle) vs. quiet, shorter hole, simple machine (kreg). The kreg is a little faster, as well.
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