How to turn a 5" deep mug without hollowing tools

[Mike Cruz]

That is a great learning tool, Brian. You'll learn really quick with it...that you don't like it, that is...

Actually, I've made a couple of "mugs/steins". But this was before my turning days. I made segmented mugs, with long strips of wood with 22 1/2 degree angles on the long sides. Just lay down some masking or painters tape (say, 3 strips). Lay the wood strips with the angles already cut on them across the three strips of tape, making sure they abutt each other nicely. Put glue on each of the angled surfaces. "Roll" them up! The tape acts like your clamp, but also keeps them aligned. Once dry, remove excess glue. True up the bottom and top on a good sander or on a miter saw. Make a bottom that fits the outside shape of the mug. Glue it on!

NOTES: Do all your sanding beforehand. Finishing the strips can be done beforhand as well, but you'll likely have to do a little touch up if nothing else afterwards anyway. (I did all my finishing afterwards.) I finished mine with poly. Make sure you give it LOTS of time to dry before using it. You can use contrasting woods to make it look neat. I've walked around with mine at parties and Ren Fests, and the like. Gets lots of compliments. People tend to remember you from year to year by it. Make sure to bring it back the next year, or you'll get a hard time for NOT bringing it...

Whether you do it segmented or turned, enjoy!

[Brian Kent]

Mike, thanks for the ideas. I started some staved mugs today. I tried 8 staves and 12 and I like them both. This helped me with size since I did not have as big a blank as they wanted on a solid mug.

Just a good word for the Grizzly 1023 table saw. I have never calibrated since I got it 4-5 years ago. I set the degree markings by the scale and after 16 or 24 angles cut for each mug, the cumulative error was not noticeable.

I will turn the outsides and either leave the insides, turn from each end, or use my as yet non-existent hollowing tool

I would like to plug the bottoms with a disk inside of a round opening. I am assuming the same grain direction (end-grain) and the same wood should be used.

[Lance kanaby]

The Wooden Nicol has plans using a 3/8" drill bit as a hollowing end grain tool. I just made on this weekend and it works great. It will cut on the pull cut or on a push cut. There a couple videos on YouTube showing this tool and how it works.

[Gary Herrmann]

Why not a 2" forstner in a bit extender?

[Mike Cruz]

Those look great! Not sure about grain direction for the bottom... Maybe someone else that is a "segmenter" can give you advice there.

[Brian Kent]

Lance - good idea on the 3/8" drill bit made into a hollower. I have an extra I could play with. Where did you get the steel to mount it in?

Also, I have this remnant of a 5/8" thick bowl gouge that could be re-purposed if I knew how to grind into a hollower? It is up against my 1/2 " thompson bowl gouge.

Gary, that is another good idea for the original project (not the staved ones since they are too big) and a local place has those for under $20 (Porter Cable 2" forstner).

[Jamie Donaldson]

Brian- I made several Oland style hollowing tools from 5/8"& 3/4" cold rolled rods from Lowes. The cutters are regular 3/16" metal cutting bits from any machine shop supplier, about $2 ea. for a 2" bit that will make 2 hollowing cutters. I round over the non-cutting end by holding them in a drill chuck and spinning against a grinder wheel until they can be CA glued into a hole drilled in the shaft, just the way that Ellsworth makes his tools. Piece of cake!!

[Brian Kent]

I think I'll go for the 3/4", Jamie.

I was reading about the noise inherent in hollowing, went ahead with my scrapers and got it done. But I like things that are smooth and steady, not that are chattering and amplifying the noise through the natural amplifier of the wooden tube.

Thick, heavy rod, small tip, big heavy wooden grip. Low vibration. That's what I am looking for!

[Brian Kent]

Jamie, I am starting a new thread about building the tool. I'll appreciate your input.