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Thread: How to turn a 5" deep mug without hollowing tools

  1. #1
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    Question How to turn a 5" deep mug without hollowing tools

    My son and daughter in law asked me to turn a couple of mugs to carry around at the renaissance fair. They will be about 2.5" wide and 5" deep on the inside (with a nice hefty handle attached with twisted rope.)

    I turned the blank long enough to screw it onto a face plate. I am using nice dry straight grained white oak. So far, so good.

    I used a 1.25" forstner bit to get the depth set and have used my 6" long scrapers to cut down to about 3" inside the mug. Everything is smooth, but I am just starting to get vibration. My current plan is to keep sharpening the scrapers and taking a really long slow time finishing. If I don't end up with a square bottom, no one will care. This is mostly for show at the fair.

    Any recommendations to finish the inside without spending $100 to $infinite on hollowing tool(s)? I am a long way off from trying and buying hollowing tools.

    I could get a 2" forstner bit and make the whole thing easy. Or I could keep on going with scrapers. I am a little hesitant to use the Thompson bowl gouge that deep because I do not want to catch on the inside wall.

    Ideas?

    PS. Why do so many manufacturers sel 2-1/8 or 2-1/4" forstners? Door handle holes?
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    Last edited by Brian Kent; 01-25-2013 at 1:53 PM.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  2. #2
    Don't know about 2 1/4", but lockset holes are generally 2 1/8".
    *** "I have gained insights from many sources... experts, tradesman & novices.... no one has a monopoly on good ideas." Jim Dailey, SMC, Feb. 19, 2007
    *** "The best way to get better is to leave your ego in the parking lot."----Eddie Wood, 1994
    *** We discovered that he had been educated beyond his intelligence........
    *** Student of Rigonomics & Gizmology

    Waste Knot Woods
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  3. #3
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    Try making an Oland style tool.
    Cheap and effective

    http://aroundthewoods.com/oland.shtml

  4. #4
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    Hey, that looks very interesting, Ted.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  5. #5
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    A steady rest would help cut down on the viberation.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  6. #6
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    A steady rest to get rid of the vibration and perhaps a tool rest that extends into the opening might give you the extra reach you need to do the bottom. PSI carries these:
    Last edited by Aric Krueger; 01-25-2013 at 4:11 PM.

  7. #7
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    So far I have kept the mug from vibrating. It's just the tool reaching its limit. I do look forward to making a steady rest though. Those extenders look good. The opening is just a bit small to use my tool rest inside the mug.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  8. #8
    You could always chuck it and turn it from both ends and then insert a bottom plug.

  9. #9
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    Good idea, Malcolm.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  10. #10
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    I assume that among your tool arsenal you now have a 1/2" spindle gouge, and that will do the job, but with some pucker factor going that deep. My preference would be my favorite Hunter tool #5, and that would hollow out that mug in 5 min. with no trouble at all! You don't need no stinkin' scraper!

  11. #11
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    I'm wondering about this as a $25 buck learning tool?
    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Lath...g-Chisel/D3810

    This really is fascinating to me, learning the limits of the tool geometry. The 3/8" spindle gouge got me a little way, the tool rest fit a few inches in, the scraper tools did a little more. But bottom line the sides are 1/4" thick for several inches, thickening to 3/4" at the bottom (5" in).

    So I will either take Malcolm's suggestion and turn it from both ends, drill it out with a $20 2" forstner, or get the $25 Fox hollowing tool to start my learning curve. I am just having fun and the Renaissance Fair is not for a couple of months.

    I would also take suggestions for a basic hollower that I will want to use long-term and that I can buy whenever I have the extra bucks.
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    Last edited by Brian Kent; 01-26-2013 at 1:10 AM. Reason: add photos
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  12. #12
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    That configuration of bent hollowing tool is for hollow forms through a smaller opening, but if the shaft is less than 5/8" dia. forget it, because there will be too much flex and chatter. I don't find any specs mentioned for this specific tool shaft diameter on the site description.

  13. #13
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    Thanks, Jamie. I have no use for a tool-shaped-object if it can't do its job.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  14. #14
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    Brian,
    The Oland style home made tool will work fine of you use a decent diameter steel rod for the shaft. If you have a chuck for your tailstock you can drill a hole for a 3/16" square high speed steel cutter. As Jamie mentioned, use at least 5/8" stock or preferably 3/4". Great opportunity to practice your handle turning skills. You don't need a swan neck tool for this project since the opening is wide.
    faust

  15. #15
    "I would also take suggestions for a basic hollower that I will want to use long-term and that I can buy whenever I have the extra bucks"

    Brian - I make a lot of the stainless steel lined travel mugs and my preferred tool to hollow with is the Oneway's Termite.

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