Camouflage applied panels

[Dave Sims]

What is the most acceptable way to camouflage the joint between a painted face frame and applied end panel?

I have tried gluing the FF and applied panel and sanding flush, but the seam comes back through the paint sometimes.

I have seen the FF overlay the end panel slightly to intentionally create a noticeable seam, but trimming the top of the cabinet with crown would be awkward.

Another way I have seen is sanding the joint flush and routering the seam with a small v or straight bit.

I have not found a way that I am 100% happy with.

Thanks,
Dave

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I've used the first two techniques, curious if there is something else too.

[Mel Fulks]

Ive done more paneling than cabinets but this way works on both .One piece is made with a 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch returned bead and 1/8 to 1/4 inch rabbet. Other pc is square edged and fits into the rabbet so that that the corner looks like two pcs adjoining a dowel to make a corner. Where the crown goes around corner a square block replaces the bead so that there is no hole where bead comes up under it.

[Jim Andrew]

When the face frame is past the end panel slightly, and I want to apply crown molding, I just take a sharp wood chisel and trim it off flush.

[Dave Sims]

Mel, can we see a pic of your handy work?

Jim, good call. That will come in real handy installing in-stock cabs.

Dave

[Mel Fulks]

I have no idea how to send picture ,but if no one else does one today pm your address and I will mail you drawing and photo. I'm pretty sure I have some. Cutting the return bead is easy ,just cut from one face and one side. You must set machine so that no wood is lost at its diameter ,or you will get kind of egg shape. I always insist on doing inside corners for panel work .

[Jeff Duncan]

If it's something that's high end furniture grade type of work I'll fasten the two pieces together with a miter joint and attach to the cabinet as a single piece. This way eliminates any paint lines coming though or having the edge show on stained work.

If it's something that doesn't call for that level of detail I'll usually accentuate the line with a slight groove. I'll basically run a a 1/16" x 1/16" groove right down the seam so any movement is hidden in the bottom of the groove. I've also seen others use a v shaped groove.

good luck,
JeffD

[Dave Sims]

I am interested in chamfering the corners of the cabs. What do you think?

[Mel Fulks]

Chamfering could look fine but I don't think it solves your original problem.Over time you'll probably still see a line. I did look thru some pics and looked up 'returned beads ' ,did not find anything close up enough to help. Jeff's suggestion is good,traditional ,and easy. But the return bead is not difficult.

[Dave Sims]

Any thoughts on miter lock bits and their use for this application?

[Mel Fulks]

Lock mitres are useful,I think they are easier on a shaper than with a router .Do you have a shaper? I don't like to alter a design just to get something easier .Pick the LOOK you want,If the design is good I don't find it hard to even tolerate seeing some paint lines. A small groove or bead adjacent to the joint is perfectly respectable,UNLESS you think it clashes with the rest of design . The only case I can imagine where it could possibly be incompatible would be a super smooth and simple modern style.

[Mark Wooden]

Here is a quick line drawing of what Mel has described(I think)-Corner bead.jpg

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks Mark. That is it exactly, but in my last post I was referring more to the often used traditional treatment suggested by Jeff. The drawing will certainly be a help .

[Dave Sims]

No shaper here. sadface.