Observations on Euro style sliding saws

[ian maybury]

Thanks David (and Joe) - that's a hugely instructive video. Much appreciated. So user friendly.

Would be dead interested to hear the details on the green strip - it'd need to be pretty resilient to both grip and at the same time stay flat against the edges of the platens so that it wouldn't knock the piece out of square. Is it possibly part of a kit?

One very nice feature is that if you cut the platens on the saw after fitting the rail that drops into the T slot on the slider is that you end up with a perfect reference for where the saw cut will end up. You could also organise a vertical knob/handle with a threaded end passing through the platens into the T nuts - that would make them capable of being locked down. Maybe even the equivalent of a sliding stop mounted on the platens too if it turned out to be needed/udeful.

It'd also be possible to make a version where the platens were quite wide - so that it could handle fairly wide cuts up to the point where stuff becomes wide enough to locate accurately off the cross cut fence.

Wonder if it makes a set of parallel bars redundant?

ian

[Mark Bolton]

Someone hear the doorbell? Lots of good information. Long way around but finally got there. Several suggestions in the thread for variations on nearly the same jig in the video but hard to envision i guess.

[mreza Salav]

thanks for pointing to the video, very interesting. It sure keeps your hands away from the blade.
It seems in some situations though the amount of grip of the jig is very minimal, e.g. I'd not be very comfortable doing the cut in 7:33 minute or so.

[Andy Wojteczko]

If you check my previous post in this thread there is reference to this jig in the Holzidee magazine with a pointer to the link. There is more information on this jig in that magazine. I think the green edge is nothing more than T style edge banding.

Andy

[David Kumm]

If you check my previous post in this thread there is reference to this jig in the Holzidee magazine with a pointer to the link. There is more information on this jig in that magazine. I think the green edge is nothing more than T style edge banding.

Andy

Thanks, I had missed it. The edge is T bar Ergosoft Green 32x5 fine pore. Don't know if it has any special qualities. Dave

[ian maybury]

Thanks Andy (missed it too) and David.

Wonder if harder and maybe abrasive filled tape or hard plastic strip might not be an improvement on the rubber T strip? - the rubber seems likely to compress and as a result allow especially smaller parts clamped over only a short distance to get out of alignment.

ian

[Dave Keay]

Can someone post a Link to the fritz and frank videos I am having no luck finding them. Thanks

[David Kumm]

Can someone post a Link to the fritz and frank videos I am having no luck finding them. Thanks

Fritz and Franz

[Jim Foster]

Fritz and Franz does not Google up the requested video that well on my computer

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqzVglze9Nk

Fritz and Franz

[Charles Brown]

It just looks like regular T-Moulding we would use in the commercial shop I worked at. It can be fairly soft / rubbery. Maybe the green colour gives it super powers?

I would make one for my 6'-stroke Felder but I don't really have the ability to put the crosscut fence in the front position. I only have the retaining bars, etc. for the fence in the rear position.

[David Kumm]

It just looks like regular T-Moulding we would use in the commercial shop I worked at. It can be fairly soft / rubbery. Maybe the green colour gives it super powers?

I would make one for my 6'-stroke Felder but I don't really have the ability to put the crosscut fence in the front position. I only have the retaining bars, etc. for the fence in the rear position.

It shouldn't matter. The fence is in the rear position in the video but it could work in the front too, just not quite as handy to pull the slider rather than push it. Dave

[Robert LaPlaca]

Joe discovered a video on you tube that is worth watching concerning narrow rips. Just key in Fritz and Franz and a bunch of videos come up but one of the first is about 9 minutes of ripping on a Martin with a jig. Dave

Wow that video is wonderful.. I have often said to myself, I think I would love to trade my Unisaw for a European slider, but I use my Uni 99% of the time for solid wood processing, the only sheet goods I process are for templates and jigs.. But I keep reading that for my use a traditional cabinet saw is a better machine for me.. Even a salesman for a very expensive slider said that a cabinet saw is better for my uses.. The video really now has confirmed some of my suspicions..

[Peter Aeschliman]

I don't think it really matters whether the green stuff is sticky- you can see in the video that he's using his right hand to push the slider forward and his left hand to apply opposing force to pinch the workpiece in the jig. Obviously air clamps would be even better, but this is a pretty simple solution.

Even better would be a slightly beveled edge where the green stuff goes. This would hold the workpiece down a little bit as well as it gets pinched between the two pieces of the jig.

[Kevin Nathanson]

Loved the video. I just made one of these tonight after watching it, and it works really well on my Felder K700s.

I used 1/8" cork as an edge material; it grips very well, but is thin enough that deflection is not an issue. I have air clamps, and I just use those to hold down the two parts of the jig. I register the "front" jig with one of the stops on the crosscut fence, and the "rear" jig with a dado-attached 90º fence that drops down over the outer edge of the slider. (That way I didn't need to mess with creating an accurate "filler strip" for the groove in the slide. Given the oddly-shaped profile of the Felder slot, that's harder to do than it sounds...)

I was able to easily, repeatedly (and safely!) create 1/8" edge banding off of a piece of ~3" wide hard maple; could not have easily done that without the jig!

K

[Steve Rozmiarek]

That is a clever video. I'm making one too!