How do you maintain your tools and equipment?

[Charlie Watson]

I'm just curious how all of you maintain the surfaces of your tools and equipment? What products do you use, how often do you perform maintenance on them? Not talking about calibration or alignment, just lubrication (where applicable) and maintenance of surfaces. Thanks!

[Rich Riddle]

I apply a paste wax to the unfinished surfaces about every for to six weeks, especially during cold and damp seasons. On most parts that require lubrication, I use white lithium grease.

[Tom Walz]

I like EZE LAP or DMT Dia Sharp diamond hones to keep an edge on steel.

Otherwise; clean, dry and stored to protect the edges.

Tom

[Jim Foster]

For the surfaces, the best thing I've done is keep the relative humidity below somewhere around 53%. No rust in the years since doing so.

[Gregory King]

Top Coat product and tons of WD-40. Greg

[Rich Riddle]

For the surfaces, the best thing I've done is keep the relative humidity below somewhere around 53%. No rust in the years since doing so.

That would be great; unfortunately some of us have to share our shop with automobiles and live in wet climates.

[John Donofrio]

Cast iron/polished surfaces: Johnson's paste wax and/or renaissance wax
Moving parts: 3 in 1, dry lubricant (no silicone!, something like this), wd-40, or some combination

I sometimes use boeshield t-9 for either of the above

The frequency is basically when I feel a surface losing it's slipperiness or just when I'm in between major tasks.

[Charles Wiggins]

Johnson's Paste Wax. I don't have a regular regimen because I don't get into the shop regularly but you can tell when it is wearing off if you pay attention. The areas with the most use start to look duller and it takes more effort to move the wood across the surface.

[Jim Foster]

I do too, I keep a cheap digital thermometer with a relative humidity sensor in my shop. In the Summer I turn a window mounted AC unit on when needed. In the Winter, a Dehumidifier. I'm in MA, where we have very high humidity for about six weeks in the summer, then the rest of the year it will spike for a day or so every now an then with the weather.

That would be great; unfortunately some of us have to share our shop with automobiles and live in wet climates.

[Rich Riddle]

I do too, I keep a cheap digital thermometer with a relative humidity sensor in my shop. In the Summer I turn a window mounted AC unit on when needed. In the Winter, a Dehumidifier. I'm in MA, where we have very high humidity for about six weeks in the summer, then the rest of the year it will spike for a day or so every now an then with the weather.

I have thought about a dehumidifier but it seemed impractical in a space where the garage door opens and closes several times daily. They still work well in that type of environment? Cincinnati is a merciless climate for humidity.

[Jim Foster]

I have an old, small fairly cheap unit. It's not great and I think it uses a lot of electricity, but it woks for it's purpose. I have a room above the garage, that's open to the garage, and the humidity usually matches the garage pretty well. Whenever my digital thermometer ($5.00 from HD) reads above 50%, I turn the dehumidifier on if it's not AC season. Not a perfect scenario, but it's kept me rust free for almost 5 yrs now. Also, I have a hose on the catchbasin of the dehumidifier, so it will run unattended.

I have thought about a dehumidifier but it seemed impractical in a space where the garage door opens and closes several times daily. They still work well in that type of environment? Cincinnati is a merciless climate for humidity.

[John Piwaron]

I tremble when I read about shops located in places where humidity is a real unrelenting problem. Either a locale like Cincinnati, or even no farther than a garage.

Mine is in the basement of my residence and I'm fortunate at being able to control the indoor climate. Around 50% RH. Sometimes more, but then I know to turn the dehumidifier on. The surfaces (tablesaw, jointer) - not much. If I see any rust, a bit of fine sandpaper. That's pretty much it. Maybe I ought to be doing more. Chisels, turning tools - edges are protected. No bumping into each other or anything else. Curiously, the chisels are more likely to show rust than the saw or jointer. Turning tools - never saw rust on them. They also live in a purpose built cabinet.

[Chris Fite]

I use Johnson Paste Wax on everything. Boeshield on table saw blades. Lubrication grease where indicated, light machine oil where needed. The humidity level in my heated shop runs around 25%. The rest of the year, whatever humidity happens to blow in the open door and windows. I imagine that humidity gets right high in the summer in South Carolina, but it does not seem to be a problem.

Chris

[Mike Heidrick]

Cast iron/polished surfaces: Johnson's paste wax and/or renaissance wax
Moving parts: 3 in 1, dry lubricant (no silicone!, something like this), wd-40, or some combination

I sometimes use boeshield t-9 for either of the above

The frequency is basically when I feel a surface losing it's slipperiness or just when I'm in between major tasks.

+1................

[Jim Tabor]

Had a bottle of granite polish left after I sold my Ridgid granite top table saw and replaced it with a Grizzly 1023RL. Put some on the new saw, nice, very very nice.