Non-yellowing wipe on varnish

[Ole Anderson]

When I am done, I want that smooth as silk feel when I run my hand over the finished piece. I really don't think you can get that without a light sanding, I use 320-400 grit. On a palm sander for the flat areas. One reason I go with 5 coats, and not real light ones like Prashun speaks of. Obviously you can't do that with a gloss finish without a serious rub out, but then I prefer a satin finish. And like I said earlier, the P&L 38 satin is almost dull.

[Jim Matthews]

Late to this party;

Watco Danish Oil is essentially the same formulation as Waterlox, without any tint.
I apply it with Mirka Mirlon nonwoven pads, in progressively finer grits.

This effectively polishes each successive layer.

If you want a lower sheen, polish the last application with a dry pad of the desired scratch pattern.

Kept in a plastic ziploc bag, the pads will stay pliable enough to apply the next coating, once that's dry.
There's no dusting or rubbing out between coats, this way.

To echo what was mentioned before, the gloss finish is the pure formulation - without any additives to cut reflection.
It's harder and should last longer than matte or semigloss variants.

[Prashun Patel]

Jim, i dont think watco and waterlox are the same formulations. Waterlox contains no oil and dries hard as do all varnishes. Watco contains boiled, unreacted linseed oil which will prevent the do from drying hard enough to develop an appreciable film.