Help with turning handles

[Wells Jacobson]

I have just turned my first handles for a couple Thompson gouges I received at Christmas. The turning of the handle for the 3/8 detail gouge went well but I'm not happy with the walnut I used because it feels light and I may have been a bit short on the handle as I modeled it after the Sorby 1/2 spindle gouge I have but did not fully appreciate that the Thompson has 8" of gouge extending and the Sorby has only 6" so I think the handle should have been longer. I'll see how I like it.
I am pleased with the maple handle for the 1/2" bowl gouge but I'm having trouble with the hole to place the gouge. I read that a brad point drill tended to run straighter and I have drilled a 1/2" hole but can't get the gouge more than half way seated. Its a very tight fit and air compression may be the problem and this would only be more problematic with some epoxy on board. What size drill do others use and where can i buy drills larger than 1/2". I would also need larger drills for a 5/8" gouge or scraper with a larger tang (next Christmas).
I'd appreciate the knowhow from those that been there/done that.
Wells

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Wells: I like to be able to easily remove the tool from the handle for sharpening - particularly with my bowl gouges. It's just easier to sharpen without the handle in the way. I've been using the Hosaluk handle adapters (OneWay has a competing type ferrule that does the same thing. I use a 5/8 or 11/16 spade type bit to bore the hole - whichever the adapter/ferrule requires and bore as deep as needed to bury the tool. Glue in the adapter and you're done. Works well for me.

[Brian Kent]

Wells, if you only did a worse job of drilling you wouldn't have a problem . I use a 1/2" forstner for a 1/2" hole. With that said, I just put a 1/2" bar into a 1/2" hole with epoxy and had the air pressure issue. I just tapped the end of the handle on the floor - dropping it a few inches to let the weight of the tool drive itself in. That worked well. If the end had already been finished I would tap it on a piece of cardboard.

I used Enco to get a precise drill size recently. For forstners I have used Rockler's set and Freuds. Rockler's set is a bunch of grinders shaped like forstner bits. The Freuds cut cleanly, quickly, and eject a nice curl of wood. I am sure there are many fine forstners out there. I am just recommending against the Rockler's.

And the most important part - enjoy those Thompson tools!

[robert baccus]

Did you mention how you drlled the hole? The only way I can get one straight is to mount the handle in the chuck and a good drill in the tailstock/taperchuck and reame with sandpaper if too tight.

[Curt Fuller]

I think I would take a 3/8" dowel and wrap some 60 grit sandpaper around it and go at the opening until I could get the gouge shaft to slide in relatively easy. Then I would permanently seat it with a little epoxy. If you ever need to remove the handle you can heat the metal gouge shaft with a torch, not hot enough to hurt the metal but enough to get the epoxy to let go. As for walnut handles, I also have a walnut handled 3/8 Thompson gouge and it always feels light when I pick it up compared to other tools. But it has worked well for several years. I don't know what part of the country you're in but if you have any Osage Orange (Bodarc) you can get a hold of, it makes about the best wooden tool handles.

[Dick Latshaw]

For fixing drilled holes that need to be just a little bit larger, I have a cheap set of numbered and lettered sized bits. To take care of the air compression problem, mark the depth needed on the tool. Then force it into the handle with a Bessey or similar clamp, with a small wood block to protect the tool tip (and the clamp).

[Bernie Weishapl]

My grandfather told me when making tool handle that had a problem with air compression was to file a small V on two sides opposite each other. My half inch tools had the same problem as you are having so I filed a small V put some epoxy in and the excess came out the V's. Let them cure for 24 hrs and you are ready to go.

[Bruce Pratt]

1. The inverse of Bernie's suggestion also works. Scratch a couple of longitudinal groves the into the walls of hole in the handle to let the air escape. I figure its easier to cut wood than metal.
2. Drill a tiny hole through the wall of the handle at the base of the hole (kind of like a touch hole in a cannon). When you are seating the tool , make sure the touch hole is oriented up so the air can escape before the the hole is plugged with adhesive.

[Wells Jacobson]

Thanks all. Some very helpful ideas.
Osage orange are rare trees in mid CT.
To turn the handle I used a Stebcenter and made the tenon for the ferrule at the tailstock end. To drill I put the Jacobs chuck and drill in the headstock and held the handle by hand to keep it from spinning as I applied compression with the tailstock which was centered in the dimple made by the Stebcenter. Speed about 300rpm was very controlled and made a perfect well centered hole. I had given thought to aftermarket handles but so enjoyed making my own that I think I'll do this for a while. Good thought about heating to loosen the epoxy so if I don't like the walnut handle I'll get some more practice making another.
Wells