Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
It depends on how you use your smoother. . . . There is a difference in philosophy between how Warren Mickley has described smoothing (straight through strokes on a surface), and IIRC Larry described historically accurate smoothing as being more of a spot removal issue, at least sometimes. . . . .
I think David is spot-on in his description of the different uses for smoothers. The slightly wider No. 4 is easily the better choice for straight through strokes, but a smaller plane works better to smooth areas of tear-out and other spot issues. As a novice a few steps ahead of you in assembling tools, I predict your immediate needs will be more along the lines of smoothing sections of tear out, but eventually you'll need to deal with both issues.

So, I suggest that you think about not only this purchase but also the next. If this will be the last smaller plane you buy for quite a while, I'd go with Jim Koepke's advice and buy a No. 3 because, IMO, it's a little better at dealing with both issues than the No. 4 and because it will probably meet your immediate needs a little better. However, if you think you're going to continue to fill in the gaps (somehow our estimate of the size of a gap in tools that needs to be filled gets smaller and smaller as we go!), I suggest you get a No. 4 for straight through stokes and consider something even smaller than a No. 3 for spot removal -- either a Stanley No. 2 (if you can spring for the bucks) or a low-angle block plane from Lee Valley and add the tote and front knob and an extra 38 degree blade so it can serve not only as a block plane but as a bench smoother. I have all four -- a Stanley No. 2, the Millers Falls equivalents of a No. 3 and No. 4, and the LV low-angle block plane with the accessories. With those choices, the No. 3 is probably the one I use least. I use the No. 4 for straight through strokes on a surface and the No. 2 or the LV block plane for areas of tear-out and such.