What can I use to rough cut high pressure laminate/formica to size?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

In a couple weeks I will be starting a new router table using Norm's revised plans. I purchased some formica to cover the table top and the faces of the fence parts.

It's been nearly 30 years since I worked with formica. What can I use to rough cut it oversized? I plan trimming it to final shape and size with a flush trim router bit.

Can I use a carbide bladed scribe like I use for scribing and snapping wonderboard backing for tile?

Can I get a special blade for my angle grinder?

[Bill White]

Thin kerf high tooth count TS blade.
I have a steel "ply-tooth" blade that I have had for years. Not carbide, but cuts the really thin stuff well.
Ya just have to apply a temporary face to the fence to keep the laminate from getting caught underneath the fence.
Wear hearing and eye protection. Hope this helps.
Bill

[Steven Hsieh]

Your regular table saw blade will work fine.

[Matt Meiser]

A 3rd vote for the TS. Just make sure it can't slip under your fence like Bill said--some sit up a little off the table.

[Keith Outten]

Ken,

What are the dimensions of your router table top?
.

[Howard Acheson]

Use your carbide blade with the highest tooth count. The only issue is that the thin formica will want to slide under your fence. Clamp a board to your fence that fits tightly down onto your saw table.

[Dick Brown]

Table saw, clamp a piece of 90 degree flashing to your fence, horizontal flange tight on the table top so your laminate slides on top of it. I use 2"x2" and bent a tab around the ends of the face of my Biesemeyer fence rather than clamps so I just slip it on. Works great and takes two seconds to put on/take off.

[Andrew Fleck]

I rough cut all of mine with a pair of tin snips. Works great for me. I just built the router table you are about to build and I'm glad I went with the formica. I think it looks great.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Keith....the finished table top will be 36" by 26". I bought the formica late last fall. I have plenty. I haven't cut any formica since I redid our kitchen 28 years ago. I honestly don't remember how I cut the formica to rough size then. It's old age.......

[John Piwaron]

I built that very table, well the top, sorta, last spring. I had a 4' x 8' sheet to start with, I thought it was too floppy to use the TS. I used a jig saw to break it down to more manageable pieces, but I probably wasted more than most people would want to. I left each piece several inches over size for the part I intended to use it on.

FWIW, I used aluminum T track instead of a T track bit in my top. Same with the miter gauge slot. I don't have experience with a bit like that and I like the look of the aluminum pieces.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

John...I have combination side-by-side T-track and miter track for the miter slot and like you I have t-track for the fence.

[Michael Dedon]

I've always used a crosscut hand saw. Easy and comfortable strokes.

[Jim Andrew]

There is a scribing tool you can buy. Has a carbide tip, looks like a utility knife. You start off just scratching it, then press a little harder and after a few strokes you can just break it off, or cut it clear through. Back the cut up with some plywood or other scrap. And use a straight edge on the piece you are saving, so if you slip it doesn't scratch the piece you are using.

[Rod Sheridan]

Ken, I just cut it on the table saw using a fine carbide blade............Regards, Rod.

[Chris Fournier]

Sadly I've used alot of this stuff in the last two years. I break it out using my slider and flush trim with a carbide insert router bit. Honestly there's no need to be fancy about the blade, carbide because it holds up well and anything other than a ripping configuration with work well.

I'm not a fan of exposed TS blades but I do recommend that you raise the blade higher than you normally would for a given material thickness as the laminate likes to pop up at the worst times. I'd have my blade 0.75" to 1.0" high.