Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Newbie Dovetail Question...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    120

    Newbie Dovetail Question...

    I am jumping from site to site, blog to blog, article to article, and contraption to contraption looking for the easiest, most economical way to make dovetail joints.

    I eventually want to learn to make them by hand but at the moment I don't have the time for that endeavor.

    I need to make a few drawers with dovetail joints and am kinda in a pinch as far as finances are concerned so I'm looking to learn to do them quick, easy and for as little as possible.

    If this is at all possible I'm sure you guys can help me out, and if it's not... you'll let me know that too.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,935
    Porter Cable 12" Dovetail jig. I think it's a model 4212, or close to that. There are also many clones of this jig, that might suit for less $$$.

    Read the instruction all the way through, keep them at the bench and setup the router. Your first attempt will be close, you second will fit nice.
    Use a backer board to control the chip out. Within an hour, or two, of opening the box, you'll be making drawers.
    It's about the easiest and quickest way I know to do a dovetail joint out of the box. The economics would be up to you.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 02-04-2013 at 9:50 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Auburn, ME
    Posts
    749
    Jon I asked the asked the same question last year. Didn't have a lot of $$ and a few talked me into cutting them by hand. I already had a good set of chisels so only had to buy a good saw. Found a really good one from lee valley for around $50. I made the mistake of learning to cut them on hickory and not only that but cutting half blind on all four corners. I have since cut a bunch in pine and they go really quick. I think it depends on the type of wood you are using. If you have a hard wood like hickory then get a good jig with a really sharp bit and backer board. If you are anything softer thang hen try to cut them by hand. The cheapest jig I could find was around $150+ You may be able to find something on Craigslist for cheaper and that may work for you right now. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions on handout ones because I learned a lot the hard way but had a lot of support on here

    Greg

  4. #4
    Do you own a table saw?
    If yes then I would recommend this approach.

    American Woodworker #155 August/September 2011 Preview Tablesaw Dovetails


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    There is a Leigh jig for sale in the classifieds here, I like mine, and they get good reviews. BTW, my first project, the one that got me into woodworking, was a dresser for my wife. I bought a craftsman jig for a bit less then the Leigh, and it was horrible. I got through the dresser, we still use it, but the craftsman jig went to ebay soon after, and I bought the Leigh. It was actually the 4th or 5th tool I bought 20 years ago, and I still use it.

  6. #6

    porter cable jig

    I just got done cutting dovetails for for drawers using the porter cable jig that I bought for about $100 new. I dont have the model number and it is outside in my shop and it is cold out there right now. I had not used it for about 2 years and it took me about 15 minutes to review the instructions and remember how to use it. What takes the longest is setting the router bit to the right height to get the joints tight. Once you get it set, it doesnt take long to cut the joints. It is a real good jig for the money. I started out with a craftsman jig that was all plastic. It was not a very good jig. I sold it on ebay and good ridance. The porter cable is far superior and doesnt really cost that much more. Jared

  7. #7
    Jon, I have a couple of questions for you. Do you like dovetail joints that look like zipper teeth? Do you like fat pins? Do you mind being restricted to specified drawer box heights (if you want the normal half pin at the top and bottom)? If the answer to these questions is 'no' the comb-type dovetail router jigs are probably not for you.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    Might I suggest a bandsaw and a plywood jig?

    You could cut them with a well-tuned jigsaw as well, so long as the sole of the saw can be captured in a fence.
    If you're only cutting a couple of drawers, handsaws are cheaper, but you should practice on scraps, first.

  9. Jon check out Halfinchshy.com he has a short video on his site where he cuts dovetails by hand and makes it look very easy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,526
    Blog Entries
    11
    I got started using a Woodstock version of the inexpensive blind dovetail jig. Worked fine for me on several projects. I only moved up to a Leigh when I needed to do wider boards for a toy chest. I did upgrade it with the aluminum template. I would be glad to make you a deal on it, but shipping might be an issue. PM me if you are interested.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    2,367
    Keller jig. My first dovetails off it fit perfectly, without any screwing around. Get the cheap one, it works great.
    Paul

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    888
    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    I got started using a Woodstock version of the inexpensive blind dovetail jig. Worked fine for me on several projects. I only moved up to a Leigh when I needed to do wider boards for a toy chest. I did upgrade it with the aluminum template. I would be glad to make you a deal on it, but shipping might be an issue. PM me if you are interested.
    I've built a lot of drawers with the HF version ($19.95 when I bought it), but the Woodstock (now Grizzly) manual is genius! Downloadable. too!
    However, my eyesight limits my handwork now, so I use my Woodrat for serious dovetails.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie Darby View Post
    Do you own a table saw?
    If yes then I would recommend this approach.

    American Woodworker #155 August/September 2011 Preview Tablesaw Dovetails
    Thanks, this looks interesting, but I can't seem to figure out how to see or even buy the entire article.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Boulder, CO
    Posts
    112
    I got a Porter Cable 4212 list right beofre Xmas - about $150. It comes with a decent manual, both a dovetail and a striaght bit, and a bushing. It has the same limits as any of its ilk (fixed spacing, for example), but works well within its limits. I use to have the Harbor Freight knock off - same idea, but worlds apart in quality and finish. I mean, woooorlds apart. I know people have been able to make the HF version work just fine, but I really didn't like it (in fairness, the crude manufacturing and low quality were not as much an issue as the lack of a manual, which - as noted above - is now easy to rectify, though both were quite noticeable and irritating )

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward P. Surowiec View Post
    Jon check out Halfinchshy.com he has a short video on his site where he cuts dovetails by hand and makes it look very easy.
    Oh god, please don't, not unless you want to torture yourself. He makes the most boring long winded videos on Planet Earth.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •