Pore filler

[Tom Fischer]

Getting ready to put a finish on 2 black walnut footstools.
I'm confused (lots of practice with that)
I used to use a can of Behlen's Pore-o-Pac filler. The can said "natural", although it was kind of brownish.
That can was getting really old, so I ordered a new can, "Natural"
It is gray, like spackle.
For walnut, do I have to dye this stuff? ... With what??
I put some filler on a test piece of walnut. I can see slightly see the "spackle-color".
Also, I usually apply two coats of Minwax Natural stain sealer.
(I think it brings out the grain/colors better, air dried lumber and all)
Anyway, should Minwax Sealer go on first, before the Pore filler?
Then I usually apply a couple of thin coats of shellac
Then two coats MinWax Wipe on Poly.
Also, I read a suggestion here to FIRST wipe the surfaces down with shop towel + mineral spirits, check for glue lines, scratches, Is that OK, under this finish?
Can see on this forum, have a lot of pros here.
Any comments?
Sorry to sound like such a Country Bumpkin .

Thanks for any help!

Footstool_3_72.jpg

[Steve Schoene]

I don't see any particular point in the Minwax--its just a very thin varnish and won't do anything to "pop" the colors or grain more than the pore filler itself, and will have less impact than something like boiled linseed oil. If you are coloring the walnut with dye do that first, and then seal the walnut--a blonde shellac such as Seal Coat from Zinnsser will do that. (I would generally use about 1 or 1/1/2 pound cut) The sealer will keep the pore filler from acting like an general stain and will concentrate its effects to mostly staying within the pores.

While the pore filler would become less noticible under a top coat, I generally tint the filler using a pigment. I generally use artists oil paint or dry pigment. I aim for a tone just slightly darker than the background color of the wood since that gives an impression of greater depth. Be sure that you let the oil based pore filler cure well before topcoating. I generally allow several days or a week--quite a bit longer than the label directions.

tp

[Tom Fischer]

Thanks Steve.
I've made these things before.

8414095694_b565c39689_z.jpg

Have spent a little more time on this version than previous ones,
and this walnut has some curly figure in it.
Was looking for a brighter finish than I have done before
The Minwax product that I usually use first is Stain/Sealer Natural (clear)
Seems it helps the natural colors in the wood to show.
Have an old can of Minwax Tung oil. Just tried that versus the Minwax Stain/Sealer Natural (clear)
The Tung oil probably penetrates a little more, but seems darker.

I don't want to stain anything on this project (except the pore filler)

I have never used B linseed oil. Maybe get a small can tomorrow. See how that looks on a scrap.
Googling BLO, folks are saying you cut the first coat with some turpentine, goes in deeper.
Thanks!

[Steve Schoene]

Its not true that you get more penetration if you thin the blo. The thinner just evaporates well before the blo has cured. The thinning means less BLO was applied, giving the illusion that more blo penetrated. Penetration depends on the size of the blo molecule and thinning doesn't change that in the end.

[Tom Fischer]

Checking this morning the folks who post on Minwax site, the StainSealer Natural 209 is a mix of BLO, spirits and small amount of varnish.
Going full circle here.