I have an older unit and it works good, comes in handy when you break bits.
I have an older unit and it works good, comes in handy when you break bits.
OK, I found this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotat...&v=_pDitJb7z-M which shows pretty well how to hand sharpen. I can see how this might get a little difficult on the smaller bits. I'll give it a go after work today and see how it works....John.
To answer your question, I have not made the one purchased work.
At the woodworking show in Kansas City, someone asked the representative to demonstrate how to sharpen with one effectively. He indicated if the owner's model differed from the model on display it wouldn't work the same. He actually didn't even try to show how his model worked. It makes one a bit cautious about recommending the product.
I bought 2 when I was doing a lot of out of town work one for my crew and one for another crew. One of them worked really good the other just so so. That one got stolen and I ended up with another one and that one was really good also.
I use a drill sharpening jig for 1/8" and larger bits. Found a couple of them at barn sales. They work pretty well.
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Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
I have a Drill Doctor. It is really nice to be able to touch up a bit on the spot rather than have to go get another, regardless of price. I don't have a grinding wheel, so would not be able to sharpen bits otherwise. One of the better tools that I have bought.
Chris
I find it works best with the smaller bits and also works better if you don't wIttill the bit is trashed. It literally takes less then 30 seconds and you have a brand new bit without all of the hassle of actually buying another one and its immediate when you need it.
& this reground bit, it lasts as long as a new one?
And the essential material you're drilling into = ?
I have found most twist bits if not all to be made from the same steel through out so I have not noticed any difference in the edge. I know longer care what material I am drilling into because I can easily resharpen them in a matter of seconds.
The bits last as long as any other bit ground from the same material. I mostly used mine to drill through steel since that's where I run into the most dulling and breaking. IMHO, the Drill Dr. is a metal working tool, not a woodworking tool. Bits don't dull quickly enough in wood to justify it. If you do a lot of metal work, especially in steel, you can dull a bit 2 or 3 times just drilling one hole. Then the Drill Dr. is invaluable, just like my leather strop is invaluable to me in my woodworking shop.
Last edited by John Coloccia; 02-15-2013 at 5:33 PM.
last as long?..........probably not but I have not noticed the difference myself. And it only takes a few seconds to remedy the situation if I dull a bit in the middle of a project.
material?...............for twist drills (the only ones relevant to this thread), the vast majority of my drilling is into mild steel. In fact, my Drill Doctor stays near the drill press in my garage, the one I use for metal projects. I have a different drill press in the shed but bits seem to last "forever" on wood, not much need for a Drill Doctor out there.
Larry, your take:
Easy to index, easy and quick to grind?
#150 grit good enough?
I suspect, with care, one can regrind to a degree better than the CNC that produced the bit in the first place.
I drill very little steel but a lot of aluminum, hence my interest.
I must be the only one with a DD (forget which model) who is an idiot because I'll be damned if I can get it to sharpen bits. It seems to dull them no matter how carefully I follow the DVD or instruction so it is somewhere in the garage gathering dust although I pull it out every so often wondering if it'll work this time.
I picked up a nice used Tormek 2k...haven't looked into if I can sharpen drill bits on it. I assume I can...they probably have a jig for it.