Member
Count me among those saying "yes."
The only thing I can add to what has been said is that one can spend quite a bit on the Oneway balancing system to get a fairly expensive Norton blue wheel to run true before deciding to upgrade to the CBN wheel. DAMHIKT. I keep the blue wheel on one side to use on carbon steel, so I guess it's not a total waste.
Member
I was about to ask how that was working for you on a 6" grinder, since I have the 6" variable speed Delta. I guess this means it is not a problem.Originally Posted by Prashun Patel
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
Moderator
I actually have that same variable speed delta grinder. It works fine. I thought I'd probably end up burning out the motor. One year later, I have not yet done that.
Just know that the arbor on that grinder is smaller than the 8" models. So, buy your bushing accordingly. In fact, mine still didn't fit quite right and I had to use 'sand' down the arbor a smidge to get it to go on.
Contributor
Joe, the newer WC grinder must have different specs than the one I have had for four years. I had no problem mounting the CBN wheel from DWay as shown here once I took the shroud off.
God is great and life is good!
Contributor
Dave told me a minimum of 2 1/4" shaft length is needed. It is also in the video on his website. My 5 yr old woodcraft grinder was fine.
Bernie
Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.
To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.
Member
As a beginner contemplating a new sharpening system (a move up from an old 6" grinder and stock wheels) I read the advice here, added up the cost of better wheels, wheel balancing hubs, and a good diamond wheel truing device, and concluded that the D-way 8" 180 grit CBN wheel was the way to go. (with wheel guards removed 8" will fit on a 6" grinder) In fact, the wheel arrived today and I put it on the HF 8" grinder (3600 rpm) also just purchased. From what I've read, used with care this wheel can still cut without too much heat at that speed.
The cheap HF grinder ($50 delivered) is a miserable piece of junk in itself (weighs about half as much and is shorter than my old Delta 6" grinder) but with the stock wheels removed (and the base flattened) the D-way CBN wheel spins like a dream. Don't know what I'll do with the stock wheels (paper weights?).
Maybe when I get to the point where I want to change the shape of scrapers I'll buy the 80 grit wheel but I expect to use the 180 for years to come.
Forgot to add that the HF spindle is just long enough...not a recommended grinder but it does work.
Last edited by Michael Kellough; 02-14-2013 at 10:59 AM.
Member
All the positive comments in this thread have convinced me. I ordered a 180 grit wheel from Dave about an hour ago.
SMSgt USAF (Retired) 1964-1991
Aim High
Member
Mike, Measured the shaft length at 2". The chamfer and loss of first thread effectively reduces the useable length. The nuts were approximately flush with the ends of the shaft with the white wheels as supplies by WoodCraft. The white wheels are approximately 15/16" thick across the paper washers.
Member
He normally gets it mailed the same day (if you order that early), so you might see it this week still.
Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that is more by accident then design.
Member
Joe, I have the exact same issue with my Woodcraft grinder and CBN wheel combo.
Member
You won't be disappointed, Sarge. I love mine.
Regards,
Dick
Member
Dave has bushings pre-bored to fix this problem, not listed on his web-page. Contact Dave and see if you can swap at the meeting in two weeks
Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that is more by accident then design.
Member
There seems to be a lot of confusion on acceptable uses for the CBN wheels. I would like to offer my findings for whatever help they may be.
You can grind all magnetic HARDENED HSS, and that includes powered metal and carbon steel. As a general rule if you can cut it with a file it is not a hardened material. You will see more sparks off the carbon steel. I have tested carbide on my wheels and if you want to touch up your carbide tools it is ok. Small sparks will appear right where the cutting takes place. I have also tested hand chisels and screwdrivers they are good to go. They will also do a good job on drill bits. I have some machine shops that sharpen large and small drill bits on them they do a excellent job.
I have tested aluminum and brass, because there are jigs and fixtures that contain these materials. I felt in time, some contact with the wheel would happen [don’t panic] it may load the wheels some but the wheel is not destroyed. Just go over this area with one of your scrapers and in time you it will be back to normal. The coarser the wheel the less loading, I have some 60 grits that I use and they are not as prone to loading no matter what I tested on them.
There is a lot of info on CBN wheels on the internet but most of is related to heavy industrial use. We as wood turners are learning as we go, regarding wet or dry grinding in a heavy use industrial situation coolant is necessary to cool the work piece and the wheel as wood turners we don’t have to worry about this so dry grinding is ok.
As wood turners we love to make things – tools and such. Some have had questions about shaping drill rod. In the annealed state I would not recommend it, but once you heat treat it you are go to go. For the annealed steel, I would recommend using a belt sander with 60 or 80 grit belt.
As to cleaning, I have tested a lot of solvents on the wheels and have found none that seem to affect them. You can use a brush and just about a cleaning agent you would like, and then blow them off with air. To tell the truth, I have only cleaned wheels when I did some testing, for me it is one of the products I just use and get on with life.
Why electroplated wheels? Electroplated wheels are the most efficient with the steels used in woodturning, in the industry it called free cutting.
Another situation has come up with the newer WC 8” grinders. Apparently, they are making them with short shafts. There is a simple fix for this. Simply drill out the flanged side of the bushing to go over the inner shoulder like this -
Counter Bored Bushing.jpg
If you check your grinder and find this problem, one can be supplied that is drilled out. Joe K was the first to bring this to my attention, I think he did a post on it, and bless his heart, I was having a bad morning when he called and he did get me calmed down. Thanks Joe.
It has been a pleasure get to know the members on this site, whether it was a symposium, email or phone, and would also like to thank you all for your support in this journey. And have fun - life is short.
Last edited by John Keeton; 02-16-2013 at 5:03 AM. Reason: To upload pic
Dave Schweitzer
D-Way Tools
Member
I ordered mine late Wednesday evening and received it today (Friday). Wow, that's service! Thanks, Dave.
I mounted it to my grinder as soon as I got in the shop and sharpened all my gouges and scrapers. All the positive comments in this thread are right on the mark. I should have done this earlier.
SMSgt USAF (Retired) 1964-1991
Aim High
Member
Dave,
Thanks for posting about grinding softer materials on the wheel. I may still have to go out to the shop and try it out. Curiosity you know....
robo hippy
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