Horizontal blocking in walls to hang cabinets

[Jefferey Scott]

Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to demo my kitchen and I have a question about hanging the new cabinets that I have built. The studs in my kitchen are 24" o.c. and I was thinking about hanging 2x6 horizontal blocking up between the studs for the uppers and another course for the base cabinets to screw into. I figure that would give me the freedom to put a screw basically anywhere I want and should add to the strength of the wall and secure the cabinets. Am I thinking correct on this? How would you do it? I plan on taking down the drywall behind where all the cabinets are going so I'll have access to do whatever I want.

Thanks,

[Jeff Duncan]

Yup, I certainly would do it. It will make your installation a LOT easier since you won't have to worry about finding studs and transferring measurements into the cabinets. Another method I've used rarely but found handy, was to apply a layer of plywood to the walls before the sheet rock goes on. We did this for jobs that required suspending barn door hardware and it worked great. For a kitchen it would be tougher as you need to accommodate all your cutouts for electrical and possibly plumbing, but something to keep in the back of your mind

good luck,
JeffD

[Prashun Patel]

The standard method would be to toenail into the studs. However, it's not the 2x6 that'll bear the weight, it's the studs. The 2x6's just transmit the load. If you are allowed to notch the studs (check the code), then an alternate approach might be to half lap the 2x6's across several spans. Easier to connect to the studs, and a whole lot stronger.

[Kevin Bourque]

Install the 2x6 blocking between the studs with screws.
You will be able to attach one side of the blocking to the stud by screwing directly through the stud into the end of the blocking.
The other side will have to be toe-screwed in to the stud if you know what I mean. This method is more than adequate to support the weight of your cabinets.

Also: I wouldn't notch any studs. This method weakens the wall and it takes longer.

[Jamie Buxton]

For the "toe-screwed" end, use pocket screws. Get the length of screw appropriate for fastening 1 1/2" material.

[Larry Fox]

For the "toe-screwed" end, use pocket screws. Get the length of screw appropriate for fastening 1 1/2" material.

Exactly what I did and it worked out great. If the drywall is down they are easy to install and it makes installation a LOT easier. Installing it is almost a no-brainer for me as you don't have much drywall refinishing to do. I use 12-footers where I can. I rip one sheet length wise into 2 2' wide sheets. Put the first 2' section on the floor, stack a 4' sheet on top of it and use the second 2' section on that. Bottom seam will be covered by the base cabs and the top seam will be covered by the uppers. You just need to finish where it will be seen, rest of it can just be taped.

[phil harold]

glue it to the sheet rock
a toenail or two on either end would be handy

[Chris Padilla]

For the "toe-screwed" end, use pocket screws. Get the length of screw appropriate for fastening 1 1/2" material.

Bingo!! Kreg to the rescue and it'll make your life easier.

[Brett Bobo]

+1 for using toe-screwing with Kreg. Some alternatives would be to use a Simpson LUC26Z (for 2x6's) concealed flange joist hanger that should be available at the Borg or after toe-nailing (or screwing), add short "jack studs" as bearing blocks underneath each end of the 2x6's and face nail (or screw) them into the sides of the studs.

[scott vroom]

+1 on adding jack studs to support the blocking, face nailed or screwed into the king studs.

I'd be concerned on the larger, heavier cabinets about screwing into 1-1/2" blocking as opposed to 3-1/2" deep studs. Have you considered 2x4 blocking with the edge faced out?

[Sam Murdoch]

I would apply 1/2" plywood to the studs behind the uppers and base cabs. If you are covering the walls between the bases and the uppers with some sort of backsplash I would go floor to the top of the uppers with plywood. Screws and panel adhesive make this an excellent backing for cabinets. Clean and efficient and allows for good fastening wherever you need it. You can locate your studs on the face of the ply so that, for your peace of mind, at least some of your cabinet fastening can go into studs. However, it isn't the screws in the studs that will keep your cabinets up if the backs of the cabinets aren't properly integrated/attached to the cabinets.

[johnny means]

French Cleats. Why turn cabinet hanging into demolition, framing and drywall work?

[Andrew Kertesz]

I would check your building codes. If you are pulling a permit, in some areas anything you expose for a remodel must be brought up to current code. If your looking at an out side wall 24" o.c. studs may not be code. Simple blocking would be more than sufficient especially if you run it at the top and bottom of the cabinets.

[Chris Luna]

Blocking like this is pretty standard issue in construction. (My company built 250+ apartments last year). There's no need to get too critical or precise (framer rarely are). Some scrap 2x material toe nailed will work just fine. In all reality the nails don't have to hold the entire load either. The blocking will have plenty of surface area and there's no way you'd be able to pull that through the drywall.

[Mark Wooden]

Preview

If you're going to take down the drywall anyway, definitely install the blocking, (sometimes called backing) You can alternate 2x4's and 2x6's in every other bay and just nail them in. Just put the 2x4's in first
Another way is to snap two lines 2-1/2" apart across the studs where you want the backing, cut in 1" with a skillsaw on the lines, knock out the block and screw in a piece of 5/4 x 3 spruce furring. Fussy but a classy job. Of course, no one sees it.