bed design feed back

[bill walton]

I'm getting ready to saw arcs on the headboard and footboard portions of this bed. I started the plan at V1 of the attached drawings and am now at V3. Before I cut this I'd like a bit of feedback. The bed is QSWO except for the posts which are walnut. The 3 versions differ in the direction of the arcs. The details on the legs are not shown ue to my limited experience with sketchup. This is my first bed project so I'm a bit nervous on the final outcome.

TIA for your thoughts, opinions

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...V1sketchup.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...sketchupv2.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...sketchupv3.jpg

[Von Bickley]

My choice would be the first one (V1).
Just my $0.02.

[Mark Singer]

Bill,
I would probably use the first one. I would suggest lowerin the corner posts so the panels are higher where they join. Maybe the panels should be around 6" higher.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill.....I looked at all 3 and version 1 I liked. When I looked at numbers 2 & 3 there was an immediate "NO" feeling. I can't explain that either. I went back and looked again. Same feelings...no explanation. Version 1 gets my vote.

[Dave Brandt]

I also like version 1 and agree with Mark, lower the corner posts. There's also something about the feet that I'm not crazy about. It's a simple, but elegant design, why not just have corner posts (no feet)?

[Jerry Clark]

I also like #1. but the the feet do not fit with the design, also the top posts need some help-- maybe just a bevel edge.

[Dave Richards]

I like number two as well.

I gotta ask, though, what's up with your drawing? The angles look strange. If you want to send me the model I'll fix it up and maybe be able to give you a few pointers.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I like number 1 as well. I don't like number two because the arc of the headboard and footboard don't match

[Kent Parker]

Bill,

I like the curve of the panels in version #1. It will complement the natural shape that the bed with covers will take and not distract from an overall view.

You didn't list a height for the back. Would the air space below the back be the location of the cushion? Given that this is a small bed I would be wary of making the back too tall above the pillows.

I think the legs should maintain their thickness at the base rather than the cut you show. This design says "strength" and thus you don't want to take away from that visually. Perhaps the upper end of the posts could be cut to follow the crown of the back. That way they would not appear to "stick up" as they do now. If you cut them down too much as other have suggested, you won't have anything to tie to....

KP

[John Hulett]

Another vote for #1.

[bill walton]

Thanks for the feedback. I really like this because one can get a more objective view of a plan. The posts actually have a chamfer on each corner that I can't figure out how to do in sketchup. The bottom of each leg has a slight arc cut into the inside faces not the outside as pictured and certainly not as pronounced. Each post has only about 2.25" above the top of the mortise for the top rail so I'm not sure how this could be modified. This is a queen size bed and from my measurements, the box springs and mattress fill up all of the space betweent he lower stretcher and the bottom rail of the headboard +. Pillows will come up about and obscure about 1/3 of the panels. I am planning on something at the top of the posts. I was thinking of a square capital slightly larger than the post top. the thought of cutting an arc across it sounds interesting. It's not apparent in these drawings perhaps but the radius of the curve on the head and foot is the same. When I cut the template for the upper portion of the head and foot board from mdf, it occurrred to me that the cutoff portion mirrored the other and would look kind of cool, version 2. Version 3 was just carrying the thought further. Thanks again for the critique and TIA for anyone else who comments.
Dave, I'll send you the model. I've had the application for 3 or 4 weeks so I'm still working through the tutorials and learning the ins and outs. Any help is greatly appreciated

[Dave Richards]

Bill, I'll be happy to take a look at it when you send it. We'll get you on the right track.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I like the first one for no other reason than it'll be easier to get a 'clean' arc on an 'outie' than an 'innie'.

KC

[Earl Kelly]

Bill, I actually like #2. Who says the Hdbd and Ftbd have to match? Although #1 is a safe bet.

A tip for you, if in doubt on a design. Take a full sheet of 1/4 in melamine and draw your Hdbd and Ftbd full scale, stand it up and stand back and look at it. This will give you a very good feel for the proportions and corolation of posts to panel. It helps me to develop the amount of curve in the top of a Hdbd panel. And when done use the mel to make a pattern for cutting the curve, much easier to smooth a 1/4 in of mel than a full inch of hardwood. If you think you'll ever use it again, label and store it to use on another project, or use it to make another possibly smaller pattern.

[bill walton]

I've machined the blanks for the headboard and footboard and cut the tenons that fit into the legs. Hopefully I can finish the individual panels and dry assemble them, the legs, and the unshaped boards this weekend. There are 10 panels on each that have a tongue on 3 sides and a groove on the 4th. They float between the top and bottom rails. I got some black posterboard this morning and will cut it in both the convex and concave curves and tape it to the blanks, standback and study the results. My limited skills at Sketchup keep causing me to be undecisive.