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Thread: Zero clearance insrt for Ridgid 4512

  1. #1

    Zero clearance insrt for Ridgid 4512

    I just set up my new R4512 ( my first table saw ). The stock insert is steel and very thin, 1/16". I was wondering what material other people were using to make a zero clearance insert for this saw. What do about the riving knife? Thanks for any help I can get.


    Bill

  2. #2
    Most people around here like using BB plywood and or hard wood but for me I like using phenolic, it last and last. The insert that I am using is almost 3 years old and still in great shape.
    This the one for my Jet table saw, it has set screws in in and with the phenolic it tapes really nice.

    110613432.t8dBbczO.P1167630.jpg110613429.4m31Cn3Q.P1167627.jpg110613430.7L16jz4v.P1167628.jpg

  3. #3
    leecraft makes a standard and dado insert for the 4512. Woodcraft and Amazon sell them http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/sea...rance%20insert
    I have both and they work great.
    Mike

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    Thanks guys. I'll try one out of BB or buy one from Woodcraft.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Sherman View Post
    Thanks guys. I'll try one out of BB or buy one from Woodcraft.
    For the price of one insert at Woodcraft you can get a small sheet that will make 3 inserts.

    http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.co...nk_Sheets.html

  7. #7
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    I also made mine out of 1/2" BB ply, and then used some laminate on it. These are for my G0691: dscn33636091 ZCR1.jpgdscn3364 0691 ZCI2.jpg I made the basic ZCI, laminated it, used a 1/2" straight bit in the router table and cut out the area underneath for the blade to go through as it hit the underneath side and didn't allow the ZCI to fit flush with the table top, put in hex set screws for leveling. (tapped the holes first) I had to locate the RK section using the factory insert (hole at top left in first picture) and used the same router bit to clear out excess material underneath so that it would clear when the blade was all the way up. Took the riving knife off, and raised the blade up all the way. Then took the ZCI to the RT again and used a 1/8" bit to cut out the area for the RK to come through. Works like a charm!
    I have also used scrap Corian for some for my old Ridgid 3612 contractor saw. The one on the right in the first picture is the one I used.
    DSCN3366 3612ZCI1.jpg As you can see in the second picture, there is a base unit with replaceable inserts, and the base is set up to be used with a normal blade and a dado blade. DSCN3367 3612 ZCI2.jpg Same base, use different inserts. The one on the left in both pictures was patterned after the one in a tutorial from Wood Central. If you want a link to it, please PM me. It uses a slide in insert made with a dovetail bit. dscn3368 3612 ZCI3.jpg The original is in aluminum, I just substituted the Corian as I had some scrap pieces on hand. I didn't like this as much, and never used it. I used 1/4" MDF for the insert and didn't have the cut in the Corian deep enough for the insert to sit flush at the top. But this would be an easy fix. I just felt the inserts were harder to make and. The other one uses screws to hold the insert to the Corian. Corian also threads as easily as it machines.
    Hope this gives you some ideas. Jim.

    edit: Oh, there is a commercially available unit that the original is patterned after that is available for some saws. I know Infiniity sells one version:
    www.infinitytools.com/Betterley-Aluminum-ZCIs/products/1400/
    Last edited by Jim O'Dell; 02-17-2013 at 10:55 AM. Reason: added edit
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