what size cross cut sled?

[Bill Sherman]

I'm making my first cross cut sled and from what I've seen they are made in all different sizes. What is the most common size? I'm thinking 24" x 32".

Thanks,
Bill

[John Schweikert]

I'm building one now, 24"x30". I see no right or wrong in the size. Whatever fits your saw top, allows enough clamping on either side for stops and enough depth of cut.

[Mark Wooden]

That's a good size. Mine is 20"x 34" ( the size of the scrap I had that day), open in front with a pivoting fence and I've have never wanted it wider. I have a miter bar with the tee washer mounted to it so it doesn't tip when past the balance point, which is very helpful.
I also use a false table on the drop side of the blade with a snug piece of maple in the mitre bar slot so it doesn't move easily. The whole thing is low tech, pretty simple ,works fine.

[Joseph Tarantino]

I'm making my first cross cut sled and from what I've seen they are made in all different sizes. What is the most common size? I'm thinking 24" x 32".

Thanks,
Bill

26+" deep is my suggestion. this will allow for room for squaring up base cabinet panels. i used this method, and it is dead on accurate:

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t13945/

[glenn bradley]

The right depth is the depth that you want to cut. I have one that cuts to 22" (between fences) and one that cuts over 40" along with others.

[Joe Scharle]

I think that's a good size for your large sled. This one's 24 X 36 with a leading fence. I use Incra miter bars on my 'permanent' fixtures because you can dial in an exact fit. My smaller sleds usually have fences on both ends since they use both slots. Also, on this sled I've bored finger holes to help in pushing and pulling the sled. I have cut 30" panels on this, but now with a tracksaw, I won't have to do that again. And you will notice a table extension for additional support. My 1980 Shopsmith came with one and I've made a copy for all my saws since. Like Mark, I use a 'cutoff catcher' table to the left of the blade, but it's out of view here.

Miter Slot Extension Table (4).jpg

[Myk Rian]

Depth of the sled should be determined by the distance from the blade, and front edge.
Then find a comfort zone when you have it pulled back. Someplace where it feels balanced.
You might make the first one deep, use it, and see if it feels good. If not, trim the back edge.

If you have T miter tracks, you can use the miter bar washer. What's that washer called?
Then you can make the sled deeper, as the washer will hold the back down.
Front being where you are.

[mike holden]

Make it! Make it simple but accurate, and then use it. Your use will tell you whether to make the next one larger or smaller. The next one is the one to put the bells and whistles on.
Mike

[Anthony Diodati]

That's a good size. Mine is 20"x 34"
I also use a false table on the drop side of the blade with a snug piece of maple in the mitre bar slot so it doesn't move easily. The whole thing is low tech, pretty simple ,works fine.

So in your case, as your standing in front of the saw, the sled only extends over to, and is even with , the left side of the blade?
Hope that makes sense.

Edit;

IOW not like the one Glen Bradley has.

Mine is like yours with the open front (well towards the rear of the saw) and the pivoting fence, so I can fine tune it.
I may have to do the false table on the drop side of the blade thing, sort of a zero clearance type thing.

[Bill Sherman]

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to make 24 x 34 to make use of the plywood I have. Is soft maple too soft for runners?

[Anthony Diodati]

don't know about that, but they say to cut the runners so they are 1/4 sawn.
I actually used UHMW plastic for my runner's.

[Art Mulder]

Make it! Make it simple but accurate, and then use it. Your use will tell you whether to make the next one larger or smaller. The next one is the one to put the bells and whistles on.

+1 on just making it and using it. A simple one is not terribly expensive at all. It is a very very useful addition to your saw.

However, my suggestion is to make TWO.

I plan to make a small one for my regular everyday use -- rarely do I cut something wider than 10" after all. And then I'll have a big one for the rare 18"+ cuts.

Check out woodgears for pointers and interesting ideas on making a small sled.

[Ray Newman]

Joe Scharle: can you post some more info -- maybe pictures?? -- about fabricating and attaching your "table extension"? Looks very useful.

[Joe Scharle]

Joe Scharle: can you post some more info -- maybe pictures?? -- about fabricating and attaching your "table extension"? Looks very useful.

Not much to it, Ray. If you have a square tube Bies style fence, it's very simple. If the tube is round like my old Delta, it's a little more difficult requiring a 'hose clamp' tightener.

I recently replaced the original push toggle clamp with this self-adjusting one from Bessy. I do recommend it.
The clamp working against the backstop which rides in the channel between tube and table provide the lock.
The blue tape shims the extension table level with the saw table.
Miter Slot Extension Table (1).jpg

Showing the alignment of the miter slots. I bought a T slot cutter last year to allow the miter gauge to travel through
both tables. When I use the big sled, I ignore the miter slot alignment and put it where it's needed.
Miter Slot Extension Table1.jpg

This one is 12 X 24 from melamine cabinet scrap. Plywood works too.
Some of the fellows in the NC club have made them less deep due to their height.
Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck, Joe

[Ray Newman]

Thank you! Your idea just may come in handy. Again, thanks