Oneida DC remote died - NOW WITH UPDATE FROM ONEIDA!!

[John Keeton]

I have an Oneida Super Gorilla DC system, that has a Baldor TEFC 2.5hp motor, 208.230v - 11.5/10.9 amps. The unit works fine, but my remote has died. The transmitter seems to be working properly, and from what I can determine, the receiver used by Oneida is prone to failure. The mechanical switch works fine.

My first idea on a "fix" was to get a Long Ranger remote unit, but having searched and read many threads and other sources, I have decided to explore other alternatives that might be somewhat more permanent, or at least have replaceable components that won't break the bank and are readily obtainable.

I understand a simple 110V circuit, but that is the absolute extent on my electrical knowledge. Relays, contactors, etc., are all terms I see mentioned when talking about work arounds on these remote control issues, and while I sort of understand how/why they function, my level of knowledge is not sufficient to play with the wiring involved with them. I sure would hate to fry my motor - or burn down the shop!!

I would like to retain the magnetic switch to prevent a low power situation with the motor, and so I can still operate the DC in the event a component fails again.

Soooooo my question is - What are reasonable options to get a working remote on my DC??

Will the X-10 stuff work, and if so, how does one wire to the appliance module? How/where would I handle wiring from within the existing "box" containing the OEM stuff to retain the manual switch? This is what the internals look like -

STARTER-REMOTE CONTROLLER.jpg

All suggestions are much appreciated, even moreso if they are stated so fundamentally simple a 5th grader could grasp them!!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

John,

A question, if I may. Will it function manually? Can you turn it on and off from the buttons on the box?

[John Keeton]

Ken, yes, as stated, the mechanical switch works fine, but the extra exercise I am getting walking across the shop is exceeding my daily quotient!!

[Fred Belknap]

John I know you said Long Ranger didn't have good reviews, mine is 4 or 5 years old and works fine. Nice thing about the LR is it isn't line of sight, I keep the remote hanging on the light over the lathe and just punch the button. IIRC I got it from Amazon quite a bit cheaper than anywhere else. My shop is a metal building and I can turn the DC on from outside.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Jon, they do seem prone to failure. Mine failed for the previous owner as well. But if it fails again I would probably buy the replacement from Onieda. Then you will also have more remotes (they won't sell the receiver separately for less).

if you find a better/cheaper replacement let us know!

Good luck!
Salem

[John Keeton]

John I know you said Long Ranger didn't have good reviews, mine is 4 or 5 years old and works fine.

Jon, they do seem prone to failure. Mine failed for the previous owner as well. But if it fails again I would probably buy the replacement from Onieda. Then you will also have more remotes (they won't sell the receiver separately for less). Salem

Fred, actually, I think the Long Ranger does have good reviews. Salem, my Oneida filed at a little over 4 years, but at nearly $80 bucks for 4-5 years, replacing the Oneida isn't an acceptable option. Given the choice of Long Ranger vs. Oneida, I would go with the Long Ranger. However, it seems there should be other options available that are somewhat less expensive and more reliable.

[mreza Salav]

I have setup my ClearVue with a remote control. The components needed are the following:

- A properly rated relay with 115v coils, like this one (this is good for up to 3HP):

http://www.cshincorporated.com/produ...oducts_id=3231

In your case since you already have a magnetic switch you may be able to bypass this.

- A simple 115v remote switch; I use the x10 transiver with a remote but you can buy a similar remote for cheap at a box store.
The X10 has worked very well for me (even after I forgot to remove the remote from my pocket before putting it into washing machine!!) and it is a radio frequency (so would work from a different room too):

DSC04920.jpgDSC04868.jpgDSC04869.jpg

It plugs to a standard 115v outlet and has a switched outlet which then you use to power on/off the coils of the relay.
The relay has input terminals (to be connected to 220v power) and output terminals that provide the 220v power to your DC. Once the coils are activated (i.e. connected to 115v power) it will connect the input/output lines and so powers your DC.

Here is my setup with a master switch to be able to power off the whole system (including to the relay). The orange cable is 10/3 and goes to the pannel and the black thick cable goes directly to the motor. My DC is on a 30amp circuit. Since I am using one leg of hot (of the two going to the relay) plus the neutral to power the x10 Transiver plug I am using a lower rated fuse before the 115v relay (since the hot is on a 30amp fuse). The cost of the transiver + remote + relay is under $30. Yes, the remote works fine even with the box cover on.


cyc8.jpgcyc11.jpg

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Jon,
The Onieda has a magnetic switch so you will not be able to use the long ranger to turn on your DC unless you modify it heavily. And you won't be using the majority of what you paid for (the contactor). The RF part doesnt cost much. If you are going this route you could probably find a much cheaper solution.

Good luck!!
Salem

[John Keeton]

Mreza, excellent description! Thanks! I do have a couple of questions - is the white cable going out to the left just feeding another outlet? Also, what is the component in the lower center of the box, and is it feeding from one leg of the 220v line? It appears the black lead is going to the relay, but I can't tell where the other black wire is connected.

My panel box is close to the DC, and I could use the breaker as a master switch, but I wonder if it is possible to include a magnetic switch inline as a master switch so that if the power was interrupted, the unit would shut down?

Salem, I suspect I would just bypass all of that if I used the Long Ranger.

[mreza Salav]

John,

The orange cable brings in two hot (red and black that go to the bottom of the relay which is input terminals) plus the neutral (and of course the ground).
I take one of the hots (the black) and the neutral to power that extra 115v outlet (to which I have plugged in the x10 transiver).
That one leg (black) of hot first goes to a 5amp fuse (that's in the lower center section) because it is coming from a 30amp breaker and I don't want to have that 115v outlet at 30amp.
That short white cable coming from the relay and going the transiver is basically connecting the coils of the relay to the transiver (which is turned on/off with remote).
BTW, there is a white cable coming out of the left side of that 115v outlet; that is used to power my light sensor (for bin-full) that is also homemade.
If you follow the following link you'll see how that part is working. If you have more questions let me know.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...vue&highlight=

Here is a very simple hand-drawn diagram of the wiring; instead of "wall outlet" you should consider panel (or power source).

[Alan Lightstone]

Mine just failed recently too. I called Oneida, and they sent me a repair kit. A little pricey, but easy to fix and now I have 2 remotes to use with it, which I always wanted.

[John Keeton]

Mreza, I think I have it! I enlarged the pic and now see you split off the black hot with a separate leg going to the fuse to feed the outlet and the other leg going to the relay. I did not see the wire nut at first and couldn't tell how the black was getting to the relay and fuse. I will go Monday to my local electrical supply shop and see if they have the relay and fuse before going the online route. There seems to be a bunch of the x-10 remotes and transceivers on ebay and other locations, as well.

Alan, glad you got some replacement/repair parts from Oneida, but I fear their lifespan may not be any better than the OEM parts. I am hopeful that this solution is a better route.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

John
When I got my Onieda dust collector they had your same remote wired into the magnetic starter already. Problem was they wanted big $$$$ for the controller. I picked up a 3 phase 40 amp 120 volt coil, motor rated relay from McMaster-Carr and used my current remote (Radio Shack 120 volt) to control motor relay. Unused third leg on relay is used to turn on bin level warning system. Magnetic starter is still in the circuit with its motor protection. Radio Shack remote is still going strong after 15+ years. Now on its second Dust Collector. Tom

[Paul Wunder]

John,

Mreza's approach is similar to what many of us ClearVue cyclone owners used. For a remote, another economical approach can be found at Amazon for about $16.00:


http://www.amazon.com/HW2190-Heavy-D...ef=pd_sim_hi_3

This a heavy duty remote device that will handle the 120V side of the 120/240V relay. Good range; reliable and easily replaceable. If you go the the Clearvue Cyclones site and look at the assembly instructions on pages 22-25 you can see how many of us did it

[mreza Salav]

Yep, pretty much any remote switch would work, as i said a few post above you can easily find similar remote switches at a box store.
You have to make sure the rating of the relay is proper for the HP rating of the DC. Just the FLA number might not be sufficient (e.g. I think the relay CV sells isn't properly rated for their 5HP motors or at least it was the case last time I checked and told them about it).