Oneida DC remote died - NOW WITH UPDATE FROM ONEIDA!!

[Philip Berman]

THAT's the part I was missing. Thank you.

Philip

[John Coloccia]

THAT's the part I was missing. Thank you.

Philip

Your welcome. BTW, it may actually be easier to find the appropriate contactor in 24V than 12V.

[Philip Berman]

thanks, already went 24v Oddly enough, I know how to wire up a 440v 3ph Jacquard loom but not a simple 220v motor. Used to work with my grandfather in the "Silk Capital Of The World", Paterson NJ, he was a contractor and had all the weavers and dye houses as customers, they all got a kick out of watching a 14-year-old do this stuff and I was cheap labor.

[Joseph Tarantino]

wow. let's hear it for oneida. they're only charging 50% for a part they know to be unacceptable! sorry, but that doesn't sound terribly good in my book. when my out of warranty, by two years, ivac switch crapped out, a call to ivac resulted in their noting some of the units had a problem and they replaced mine for free. a unit of ITT did the same thing for a Guard Dog low water shut off switch for my home's boiler. intelledyne llc. replaced a sensor that failed well after the warranty expired and rendered the auxiliary boiler control inoperative. IMHO, really responsible companies own up to their product deficiencies and take care of their customers. unfortunately, most companies today, in our "it ain't my fault" based society, try to weasel out of doing the right thing, or try to cover their expenses so their out of pocket in attempting to mollify the customer is zero, by letting the affected customer purchase a corrective part at a discount.

i'm glad john is getting his cyclone back in operating condition, but oneida, IMHO, is just barley stepping up to the plate on this one.

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan, You can add additional momentary power buttons and estops to any contactor/motor starter. The coil circuit does not require much amperage at all and the wires also are not large.

You are right, typically not much current and not heavy gauge wire, but the source is full 110V/220V house current so the wiring for extra button stations beyond the confines of the NEMA starter box (or machine cabinet) must adhere to house wiring code- Romex, conduit, BX, or other suitable wiring, code rated electrical boxes and covers, and buttons rated for 120/220V, etc, etc. A low voltage circuit can be easily run anywhere with inexpensive bell wire and buttons! Even though my DC system is fully automated, I still have half a dozen manual low voltage control stations around my shop.

[Alan Schaffter]

So on the low voltage side, you have a low voltage relay....12V or 24V....whichever you like, but if you go 12V parts and things will be very easy to find because you can use automotive switches, relays, etc. Then you control the motor side of things with a relay that has a 12V coil but switched contacts to handle your dust collector. Really, you should be looking for contactors, not "relays" as contactors are designed for this sort of switching and continuous use. So let's say you have a 240V, 20A dust collector, you would need to look for a 2 pole contactor rated for 20A@240V with a 12V coil.

If Philip or anyone is starting from scratch and buying a contactor, the simplest way to do this is get one with three poles (three sets of contacts)- depending on whether your DC is 110V or 220V use one or two sets to provide power to the DC and use the third set for a low voltage "contactor latching circuit". That way you don't need a separate relay. That is how most of the mag starters work whether they are "full voltage" or "low voltage"- the latching circuit is broken by pushing (opening) a button with normally closed contacts or whenever the heater experiences an over-current condition. By using a "3-wire" control circuit and momentary action buttons where START is N.O. ("normally open") and the STOP is N.C. ("normally closed), you can add as many start/stop control stations as you want and have full control from every one- start or stop at any location without having to go back to the location where you initially turned the DC on or off like is necessary with may switch setups.

Considerations if you are attempting to use an after-market remote to control the contactor-

(1) If you want to be sure it doesn't automatically restart after a power interruption you will need to ensure the remote receiver switches to the "off state" when power is removed- not all of those receivers work that way, many need to receive a separate "off" signal and will stay in the last position if it doesn't receive that.

(2) If you want to add low voltage control to a wireless remote system and be able to turn off the DC manually from any location it can be even more complicated since once turned "on" the remote receiver will always want to start the system and override the remote stop capability without more complex circuitry.

Here is a sample wiring diagram for manual low voltage control with multiple manual control stations. An unlimited number of control stations can be added to this circuit.



I have 5 of these low voltage control stations around my shop and one in the garage below (near my DC). I got the button covers from Ebay and converted them to momentary contact with button mechanisms fom Radio Shack: