Color fill Help

[David Sabot]

Having lots of problems using Color Fill. Tried masking off the area, engraving, squirting it on, rubbing off and pulling tape back….still gets under tape. Someone told me to screw the tape, just engrave, squirt and rub off, still leaves a ghost of the color fill in the cracks of the wood and a “haze” of the color all over.

Does anyone have a tried-and-true way to use this that works most of the time without fail?

[Martin Boekers]

Does anyone have a tried-and-true way to use this that works most of the time without fail?

I haven't seen an absolute method reported here.

What substrate are you working with and what fill material?

[Dan Hintz]

I assume from your comments you're working exclusively with wood?

Once masked, you need to first give it a spray of clear to seal the grain. On projects I really care about, I usually go for two light coats, with 5 minutes of dry time in between. Give it 15 minutes (or more) to dry, then hit it with your color fill. Make sure your tape is pressed on really well so it doesn't slip under the tape, and thin elements will also peel back if the tape isn't squeegeed tightly to the substrate. I use blue painter's tape, but if it is still giving you trouble, consider moving to the green frog tape that expands/seals like a diaper when paint hits it.

[David Sabot]

I haven't seen an absolute method reported here.

What substrate are you working with and what fill material?

We are using Laser Bits Pro Color Fill on top of veneer over MDF. Basically the top of a humidor or jewelry box.

[Mike Null]

Be sure the wood has a finish coat before engraving; mask, engrave, press the mask down again, then use a clear coat finish to seal the engraved area--best to do this twice. Then fill and remove excess with a business card and let remainder set up for a few minutes then remove mask and clean the remainder of the paint with solvent.

I generally use acrylic paint for colorfill as I can clean it with dna or water.