My Lonely LN BU Jack

[Charlie Ross]

I wanted to start using hand planes, so I purchased: 4 ½, 3, #7, BU Jack and a few block planes. I’m not sure what to use my Jack plane for since I don’t need it for a smoother or planner. From what I understand one of the nice things about a Jack, is that it can be used for several purposes, including a shooter. So I was wondering if I should set it up with a toothed blade for heavy removal, or if anyone has another suggestion.
Thanks,
Charlie

[David Weaver]

If you don't use it for a shooter, I don't know what else you'd use it for. Using the double iron in your jointer should negate any need for a toothed iron. There's probably a reason that there aren't gobs of common pitch hogging planes out there with toothed irons from 175 years ago.

I use the only LA plane I have for a shooter, it works nice for that though it still doesn't get used too often.

[Chris Griggs]

I would (and pretty much do) just use it as a dedicated shooter.

[Zach Dillinger]

I wouldn't use a toothed plane for heavy stock removal. No reason for it. And I'm still not sold on using a bevel up plane for rough work. I know the modern planes are much better, quality wise, than the old ones, but I still can't get ever a perceived fragility that stems from seeing so many 62s with busted castings and chipped mouths. If I were you, I'd probably keep the BU as a shooting plane and find a vintage jack (Stanley-esque or woodie, doesn't matter) for my rough work. Or sell the BU, still buy the vintage jack, and use the 7 for shooting.

[Steve Friedman]

Besides using it as my shooting board plane, I use a toothed blade in the Low Angle Jack to flatten boards to eliminate tear out. Just swap the regular blade back in and the tooth marks clean up easily. It might be different if I had a high angle frog for one of my bevel down planes, but I don't (yet).

As an aside, I would not use the toothed blade for "heavy" stock removal. Those teeth will break off if you hit something hard (DAMHIKT). A cambered iron in a #605 is my tool of choice for heavy stock removal before going to the low angle jack.

Steve

[Mike Allen1010]

[QUOTE=Zach Dillinger;2085021] If I were you, I'd probably keep the BU as a shooting plane and find a vintage jack (Stanley-esque or woodie, doesn't matter) for my rough work.

Hi Charlie,

I'm with Zack, I think it's really helpful to have a vintage #5 Jack plane set up with an open mouth and a fair amount of camber to the blade (a little less than a typical scrub plane), for rough stock removal.

I use my LN BU Jack as the next step, sort of a "fore" plane for leveling out the high spots/ridges left by the jack. The LN Jack is a little short for this (I typically would use The longer #6 or #7 as a fore plane), but I like the LN as a fore particularly with hardwoods, because the narrower blade is easier to push and it can be quickly sharpened.

I guess there are a couple schools of thought; some guys like to use a few well tuned planes and adjust them for different uses, personally I Appreciate the luxury of having a number of planes, each set up and ready to go for a specific use.

All the best, Mike

[Charlie Ross]

From what I’m hearing, how’s this sound… I’ll have one blade for a shooter, and have another with a camber for rough stock removal? Once the smoke clears from buying all the new planes and sharpening stones I’ll pick up a vintage roughing plane. Or do you think one of my other planes would better double as a roughing plane.
Thanks for all the help guys, I still have a lot to learn with these planes; still not sure what to use, where!!??


[QUOTE=Zach Dillinger;2085021]Or sell the BU QUOTE]

Now you've gone too far

[Zach Dillinger]

Hehe. I think you're better off getting a separate roughing plane rather than using any of what you have. I prefer a longer roughing plane, as I think it is easier to produce a flat surface with one than with a scrub plane. You can find a decent #5 or a wooden jack for less than the cost of a new blade for your BU.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Hehe. I think you're better off getting a separate roughing plane rather than using any of what you have. I prefer a longer roughing plane, as I think it is easier to produce a flat surface with one than with a scrub plane. You can find a decent #5 or a wooden jack for less than the cost of a new blade for your BU.

I'm with Zach on this one. once the scrub basically levels it all out I really like using my trying plane (about 19 inches) for major stock removal. so a jack would probebly be nicer than
a scrub.

however a small scrub is nice for locolized removal.

[Steve Friedman]

From what I’m hearing, how’s this sound… I’ll have one blade for a shooter, and have another with a camber for rough stock removal?

Agree with Zach and others about getting a vintage #5 for the roughing. I think it was Derek Cohen who wrote an article about the geometry of cambering a bevel up blade, which requires you to remove a ton of steel. Doesn't look like fun. #5's are plentiful and cheap. It doesn't even need to be super flat. Just needs a very sharp blade and a frog that will support the blade solidly. If you want to supercharge it, get a Hock replacement blade and cap iron for the #5. It will soon become one of your favorite planes.

Steve

[Prashun Patel]

I have a toothed blade for my BUJack. I love it - but not for stock removal. It's good for working areas prone to to tearout.

I end up using my BUJack as a back up for my other planes: It's a jointer when the #7 is a little long for the job, and a smoother when the #3-4 is too small. I like having a utility player in the lineup, where everyone else plays a designated role.

[Gary Hodgin]

I use my LN BU jack as an intermediate plan in typical woods. It's primary bevel is 25 degrees and I add a 5 degree secondary bevel. The one thing I definitely prefer it for is planning end grain on stock to big to use on my shooting board. I prefer it over the my block plane. I don't have a normal block plane. Mine is the LN small block plane.

It a good shooting board plane as well. I really like the size and weight of the plane.

[Jim Koepke]

These kinds of threads really bring to mind how everyone does things in different ways.

My LN BU Jack is used primarily for shooting end grain. It occasionally sees other duties.

My specific reason for using this plane for shooting is because of a shoulder injury.

That same injury makes using a #5 as a scrub plane a bit difficult. For me the lighter and narrower #5-1/4 makes a great scrub plane. An old plane that was beat up for years by nomadic high school shop students has the job. It has cracks in the sole around the mouth and a few other indications of foul play, but it does the job it is dedicated to do. There is also an undamaged #5-1/4 in the shop for regular use.

For short pieces my #5 is often used to work the edges and another is set to take light shavings to remove any tear out.

I guess there are a couple schools of thought; some guys like to use a few well tuned planes and adjust them for different uses, personally I Appreciate the luxury of having a number of planes, each set up and ready to go for a specific use.

All the best, Mike

+1 on having a number of planes set up for different tasks.

jtk

[Jim R Edwards]

I use my bevel jack for almost everything. It's the most usefull plane I own and I own almost every size. I cannot imagine doing hand tool work without my bevel up jack.

[Jack Curtis]

The big advantage of a BU Jack is that it makes a great first plane because it works right out of the box and it can do almost all planing tasks to a very high level. Then you can take your time determining which functions need specialized planes. At this point, I primarily use it for shooting end grain; but I have a couple of Japanese shooters, so I've really been thinking about selling the LN. Something keeps me from doing that, perhaps sentiment, it was my first great plane.