Shelf Pin jigs again

[Chris E Smith]

I found a great article in the archives by Greg Portland on shelf pin jigs. I've narrowed my search to router type jigs and I was wondering if anyone can comment on the Woodpecker jig that has the three drilled aluminum bars and threaded rod to clamp them to the workpiece. It seems flexible and at a reasonable price compared to the available jigs Greg found to be useful at the time of his article. I was considering the Kurka jig but it is a lot more expensive and I only have one kitchen to build and maybe a handfull of other home projects in the future. The MEG jig looks great, heavy duty and expensive, but it isn't clear from their website if they are still in business. My " tool sensibility" is to buy good quality tools because it usually pays off in reduced frustration and resale value later. I have never drilled or routed a shelf pin hole so I don't have a feel for what is necessary and what is overkill for my purpose.
Thanks
Chris

[Steven Lee, NC]

I got the kreg shelf pin jig and really like it because it doesn't use the self centering bits that always clog on me. I have the lr32 router based system because someone gave me a super deal on it and tbh, while it's great it's way overkill and since I am not cranking out tons of cabinets, takes a lot more time for me to setup than the kreg jig. http://www.kregtool.com/Shelf-Pin-Jig-Prodview.html The kreg jigs can be chained together as well which is a cool feature.

[Bill Huber]

If you only have one kitchen you are going to build I would just make my own. It is not hard and you can set it up to any hole spacing you want.

You don't even have to make it adjustable, all the cabinets will be the same. Some 1/2" MDF and about 30 min. and you have a good jig. Set up the spacing that you want and use a compass to lay it out, drill the holes and then use a counter sink to give them an easy way for the router bushing to slide in and you are ready to go.

This is a small one I made, I can set the fence on it for the depth and if I need more holes just put a dowel pin it a hole and move the jig to the next position.

[Jamie Buxton]

This one -- http://www.woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-7...&searchSize=12

The hole spacing is 32 mm, and the primary setback is 37 mm. That's what you want for cup hinges and overlay doors, which is how most kitchens are built. It is long enough that you can do an entire cabinet side without moving the template. (Moving the template takes times, which adds up in an entire kitchen. Worse, it offers the possibility of getting the holes in one column displaced from those in other columns, and then your shelves rock.) And the cost is quite affordable.

You're right that a plunge router is the best way to go. Good depth stop, fast, and no splintering at the entrance.

[Greg Portland]

I found a great article in the archives by Greg Portland on shelf pin jigs. I've narrowed my search to router type jigs and I was wondering if anyone can comment on the Woodpecker jig that has the three drilled aluminum bars and threaded rod to clamp them to the workpiece. It seems flexible and at a reasonable price compared to the available jigs Greg found to be useful at the time of his article. I was considering the Kurka jig but it is a lot more expensive and I only have one kitchen to build and maybe a handfull of other home projects in the future. The MEG jig looks great, heavy duty and expensive, but it isn't clear from their website if they are still in business. My " tool sensibility" is to buy good quality tools because it usually pays off in reduced frustration and resale value later. I have never drilled or routed a shelf pin hole so I don't have a feel for what is necessary and what is overkill for my purpose.
Thanks
Chris

Hi, I'm glad my article helped. My recommendation is to determine the total number of holes you'll need to drill and determine if the time savings is worth the cost increase. I'd suggest building your own (like the WWA jig in my article) that is tall enough to do a cabinet in one pass. The jig can also be disassembled after use and packed flat to save space. As mentioned, be sure to factor in the set back (avoid the euro hinge hardware mounting points, etc.).

[Larry Copas]

The WWA jig.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_mXI3d1iKQ

The utube is shortly after I made my jig. I no longer use the board in the center as the router is stable enough. I've also gotten a lot faster. So far I have used it on two kitchens and it has worked great. I have no desire to even look at another jig.

[Peter Kelly]

MEG is out of business. They need to take the site down

[Larry Frank]

I would agree with the WWA jig. I built 18 running feet of both upper and lower cabinets for my shop. I decided to go with the euro style and used the 37 mm setback and 32 mm hole spacing. I prefinished the cabinet parts and then used the router and the jig to put a lot of holes in the cabinet sides. It did a very clean and accurate job.

I had considered buying a bunch of the jigs but they were too costly and most could not drill all the holes in a cabinet side without resetting the jib.

I had never built cabinets with the euro spacing but it certainly made installation of hinges and drawer slides a dream as they all fit the shelf support holes.

[Chris E Smith]

Thanks Bill, that's a nice solution.

[Chris E Smith]

Thanks to all that replied. I'm going to take a look at the other commecrial jigs mentioned but I'm leaning towards the WWA jig for my needs.

[Ole Anderson]

I had to do some searching but here is the origin of the WAWA jig: http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchi...23holejig.html which details the construction of same.

This is of interest to me as I need to drill shelf pin holes for my upcoming kitchen cabinets. I have an aluminum jig I made years ago, but this time I want to be able to utilize a plunge router with a 1/4" upcut spiral plunge bit for the reasons mentioned.

I hope the web reference is not violating the rules of posting.

[Brian Backner]

Sorry to hear that MEG products is gone. I bought one of their jigs when I built a formal library some ten years ago. Granted that it was expensive - I think I paid $300 +/- at the time, but after using it on only the first upright, I knew it was the only tool for the job. After all 9,000 (yes, nine thousand) shelf holes were drilled in one looooong day, I considered it money very well spent. I've continued to use it for kitchen cabinetry and the like. I would never even consider selling it.

[Bernie LeBlanc]

That WAWA jig is very nice and easy to use. If I were building a lot of cabinets, I would make one in a heart beat. But I occasionally make adjustable shelving so I use an old piece of peg board I cut a strip off and taped every 2nd holes drilling every other hole. For depth, I tape around the bit. Very crude method that works for me, but if the need arises for a more serious or accurate jig, I'll be making that WAWA jig. Thanks for posting

[zayd alle]

Chris,

The Woodpecker shelf pin template worked well for me on my last kitchen. It's the same router-based design as the MEG jig but made of phenolic and much more affordable.

http://www.woodpeck.com/shelfpintemplate.html

[Cary Falk]

Chris,

The Woodpecker shelf pin template worked well for me on my last kitchen. It's the same router-based design as the MEG jig but made of phenolic and much more affordable.

http://www.woodpeck.com/shelfpintemplate.html

I have been considering this one as well.