Is there a good reference page somewhere that explains all of the various acronyms used to code/classify/grade lumber? In particular, lumber used for furniture making.
Thanks!
[OP]
Member
Is there a good reference page somewhere that explains all of the various acronyms used to code/classify/grade lumber? In particular, lumber used for furniture making.
Thanks!
Contributor
Here's a good starting point.Originally Posted by Maurice Arney
http://www.kolteslumber.com/lumber_grades
[OP]
Member
Thanks... That's pretty comprehensive!
Member
Try these for info on hardwoods.
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/?p=1876
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/buying_help.php
Keith
Contributor
Simple base Lumber Abbreviations.
http://www.thewoodyard.com/pages/display/Lumber%20Lingo
Tony
"Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.”
Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805)
"Quality means doing it right when no one is looking."
Henry Ford
[OP]
Member
I'm familiar with some of the more common terms like thickness (5/4, 6/4, etc) and S4S means sanded 4 sides I think. Here is a stock list from my local supplier. I think a lot of these other terms are explained in John's post above but some are still a mystery... LOL
ASH
4/4 SEL & BTR SAP R.W.
5/4 SEL & BTR SAP R.W.
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
ALDER
4/4 FIRST R.W.
4/4 KNOTTY R.W.
5/4 KNOTTY R.W.
BASSWOOD
4/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
BEECH
4/4 EURPOEAN R.W.
4/4 AMERICAN R.W.
5/4 EUROPEAN R.W.
BUTTERNUT
4/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7"
4/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
CHERRY
4/4 1-COM R.W.
4/4 SEL & BTR 4"-6"
4/4 FAS-1F 7"-11"
4/4 FAS-1F 12+"
4/4 FAS-1F CURLY R.W.
4/4 QUARTER SAWN
1X4 S4S
1X5 S4S
1X6 S4S
1X8 S4S
1X10 S4S
1X12 S4S
5/4X6 S4S
5/4X8 S4S
5/4 FAS-1F 5"-7"
5/4 FAS-1F 8+"
6/4 FAS-1F 4"-6"
6/4 FAS-1F 7+"
8/4 FAS-1F 4"-7"
8/4 FAS-1F 8+"
10/4 FAS -1F R.W.
12/4 FAS-1F R.W
16/4 FAS-1F R.W.
EXOTICS
4/4 JATOBA (B. CHERRY) R.W.
5/4 JATOBA (B. CHERRY) R.W.
4/4 PURPLEHEART R.W.
4/4 TEAK R.W.
8/4 TEAK R.W.
4/4 EBONY
4/4 RECLAIMED CHESTNUT R.W.
4/4 RECLAIMED HEART PINE R.W.
HARD MAPLE
4/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7"
4/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
4/4 SEL & BTR STAIN R.W.
1X4 S4S
1X6 S4S
1X8 S4S
1X10 S4S
1X12 S4S
4/4 SEL & BTR BIRDS EYE R.W.
5/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7" R.W.
5/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
6/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
10/4 SEL & BTR R.W
HICKORY
4/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7"
4/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
5/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
RED OAK
4/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7"
4/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
4/4 SEL & BTR QTR SAWN R.W.
1X4 S4S
1X6 S4S
1X8 S4S
1X10 S4S
1X12 S4S
5/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
5/4 X6 S4S X 1 1/16
5/4 X8 S4S X 1 1/16
6/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
MAHOGANY: SOUTH AMERICAN
4/4 PATTERN R.W.
5/4 PATTERN R.W.
6/4 PATTERN R.W.
8/4 PATTERN R.W.
12/4 PATTERN R.W.
MAHOGANY: AFRICAN
4/4 PATTERN R.W.
5/4 PATTERN R.W.
6/4 PATTERN R.W.
8/4 PATTERN R.W
12/4 PATTERN R.W.
SOFT MAPLE
4/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
4/4 SEL & BTR CURLY 4"-7"
4/4 SEL & BTR CURLY 8+"
8/4 SEL & BTR CURLY R.W.
RED BIRCH
4/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7"
4/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
4/4 SEL & BTR FLAME R.W.
1X4 S4S
1X5 S4S
1X6 S4S
1X8 S4S
1X10 S4S
5/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
WALNUT
4/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7"
4/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
5/4 SEL & BTR 4"-7"
5/4 SEL & BTR 8+"
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
12/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
WHITE OAK
4/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
4/4 SEL & BTR QTR SAWN R.W.
5/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
6/4 SEL & BTR R.W.
8/4 SEL & BTR R.W
Member
Maurice,
I'm not sure which terms you're still unsure of but for reference, "R.W." indicates random widths and "S4S" is surfaced four sides. There are also other variations to S4S such as S2S-surfaced two sides (both faces), S3S-surfaced three sides (both faces and one edge), or S2S with SLR1E-straight line rip one edge (same as S3S). My supplier, for example, only stocks FAS material but in the case of "select and better" material, you'll get a mix of select and first and seconds. Also, if there's any doubt on the terminology, you might just call your supplier and I'm sure they'd will be willing to help.
If you have the capabilities in terms of equipment and time, my suggestion would be to purchase FAS rough sawn material. Even the FAS material will be more cost-effective (vs. pre-milled in lesser grades) and you have the ability to mill it exactly to your preferences.
Last edited by Brett Bobo; 03-22-2013 at 12:46 PM.
Contributor
Some yards and shops dont consider S2S with SLR1E S3S because the SLR is not a surfaced edge, its a straight line rip. Technically S3S or S4S would have three or four edges finish milled or "surfaced" ( i.e. jointed, planed, whatever). These would be like the boards you get at the borg or hardware store. They have no saw marks on "surfaced" edges. I dont consider the material we buy (S2S with SLR1E) to be S3S. We have to surface that ripped edge in house.
I would have to pay more if I wanted S3S.
Contributor
You should ask, but when someone tells me they have pattern grade mahogany, it had better be straight, tight, even grain, it had better be mostly clear, and it should be quarter sawn or close to it. You never know, though. I suggest you explain EXACTLY what you want, down to the species so there's no confusion. Lumber yards do weird things sometimes. I had one notice that I was picking through their pile picking out the best figured pieces from their figured maple. A couple of them were really nice. My mistake for walking in there with a couple of instrument patterns to determine how much yield I'd get from the boards (you can easily buy a 10' board and end up with ZERO yield if you can't work around imperfections).
"Oh no no, I'm sorry. Those are "instrument grade" pieces and I'll have to charge you more for those". ROFL. I told them that when they chop the board up into appropriately sized blanks, cut around all the imperfections, resaw them, thickness them, and then eat all of the wood that falls on the floor as unusable, then I will come back and pick through whatever you have left and if there's anything I'm interested in, I'll pay you for your "instrument" wood...and don't bother me with questions about what appropriate sized blanks are because I'm not your unpaid consultant, and do you want to sell the wood or not?
I got my wood and never went back. Fortunately, there seem to be far more lumber yards with knowledgeable and honest people as opposed to that clown, and I happen to live near several of them
[OP]
Member
Thanks Brett... Like I said, the link above explains many of these. I should have figured it out that BTR meant better but I guess I was over analyzing. A couple I still don't know are "pattern" and "curly." Why would I want curly stock? LOL
Contributor
References to figure. The face has curly grain or is heavily patterned.
Member
"Pattern" grade refers to wood that is suitable for (duh!) making patterns, for example for castings, shoes, and other things. This wood must be very straight grained and free of defects since flaws would ruin a pattern. This perfection usually makes it more expensive than FAS, though due to the straight grain it may have a less interesting figure than FAS (nobody really cares whether a pattern has pretty grain!).
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