did i kill my compressor?

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi all,

As a follow on from my previous posts about rewiring my vfd, I ran into a hiccup tonight - hoping someone can help me troubleshoot it.

As part of the project, I added a switch between the vfd and it's power source (220v ac). The switch I used was a 20a dpst toggle switch from the borg -poster on another form suggested that would be fine.

Got it all wired up, switched it on and crack! Sounded. No power to the vfd. Tried another outlet, same result.

I took the switch out and the vfd now powers up fine, so I'm guessing the switch wasn't up to the job? Or, do I need a fuse somewhere in this equation? and, how do I tell if the switch is toast?

Lastly, my compressor (which was off, but plugged in to another 220v outlet on the same circuit) now won't switch on. Did I kill it? How would I go about figuring out where the problem is?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for any help you can give!

Lee
leeko
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Posts: 106
Joined: Wed May 30, 2012 8:59 am

[David Kumm]

Did you pop the breaker? Assuming you didn't wire the switch incorrectly and short the wires and pop the breaker. Are you sure someone didn't put a 4 way switch in the double pole bin? Hate when that happens. The double pole switch should work. I use them to power up vfds all the time. Dave

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi Dave,

Yup, I had the switch wired incorrectly. The breaker did pop. Reset fixed that.

any idea what badness I might have done to the compressor?

Thanks for the advice,

Lee

[Ed Edwards]

Lee,

If I understand you correctly, the VFD now works OK? You either rewired or deleted the switch and reset the breaker. The compressor is wired on the same circuit as the VFD and that still does not work. Is there any breaker/fuse on the compressor? Then I'd go for the volt meter and verify voltage at the compressor, if none, then check back along the circuuit until you find an open. You should have 230 v across the black and red, (or across the blk &wh) depending on how it was wired.

Ed

[Rich Riddle]

It would prove difficult to harm a compressor motor when the switch was off; not impossible but difficult. Does your compressor have a plastic case you can access where all the wiring is connected?

At times those motor control switches are wired in a way that defies common sense. The Double Throw Double Pole (DTDP) switches definitely are wired that way. I always have a meter handy when installing one so it's easy to determine the line lugs from the load lugs and get the load lugs paired appropriately.

Good luck on this.

[Richard Coers]

Lee, as Clint Eastwood said in the movie, "A man has to know his limitations." Please don't take offense to this, but your post makes me concerned for your safety. Installing a switch involves just the absolute basic knowledge of electricity, and you had trouble. Your lack of electrical knowledge, combined with internet make do information, builds a recipe for disaster. Electricity can KILL and burn down your house. Hire a professional!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It will be way "cheaper" to get a professional in compared to machinery damage or electrocution.

[Erik Christensen]

does your compressor have a good ground, 110 from each leg to ground and 220 between legs? does it have an electric starter? any signs of current surge - burned/discolored contacts?

[Jerome Stanek]

You didn't connect the 2 hots to the same side did you.

[Lee Alkureishi]

Thanks everyone for the information and advice. Everything is now working as it should. As I mentioned above, I had wired the switch incorrectly - assumed that both hot inputs would come in in the same side.

The compressor did indeed have a breaker which had tripped, though it was tiny and unmarked so I missed it first time around. All working now.

Richard, I'm not offended at all - thanks for your concern.

Best,

Lee

[David Kumm]

Go to the Borg and buy a $10 current tester. When you start fooling with machines, testing for current and continuity are always part of the fix. Dave

[Tom Esh]

Go to the Borg and buy a $10 current tester. When you start fooling with machines, testing for current and continuity are always part of the fix. Dave

I suspect you mean voltage tester but in any case relying on a $10 model can be dangerous as they act exactly the same indicating a dead circuit as when they fail or are turned off. For a little more you can get a Fluke or other reputable brand with continuous self-test. Well worth it IMO.

[John Gustafson]

Did you pop the breaker? Assuming you didn't wire the switch incorrectly and short the wires and pop the breaker. Are you sure someone didn't put a 4 way switch in the double pole bin? Hate when that happens. The double pole switch should work. I use them to power up vfds all the time. Dave

The confusion of DPDT and 4 way switches an't limited to the Borg. I had it happen at a major electrical supply house in the area. Went for a 4 way and he handed me a DPDT. Told the guy, this is wrong. He argued that it wasn't. Finally got a grey beard and explained that I wanted a 4 way which does NOT hove on/off markings because like on a 3 way they would be meaningless. DPDT on the other hand such markings make sense. Grey beard picked up on that immediately. Clerks excuse, I got it out of the correct bin. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.