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Thread: Animal hide glue?

  1. #1
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    Animal hide glue?

    Does anyone use animal hide glue? If so, when and why?
    Michael Ray Smith

  2. #2
    I use liquid hide glue almost exclusively, because:
    * it's repairable
    * no creep like PVA has
    * it's at least as strong as PVA
    * it doesn't ruin finishes if some sneaks by

    It can be made waterproof if needed. The only disadvantage I can see is that it won't tolerate a cool shop as well and it costs a little more.

  3. #3
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    I use both liquid and hot hide glue. I have not used a modern glue in several years. I use it for the same reasons as David, to which I will add that I use it because it is period correct to the work in which I am interested.
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Ray Smith View Post
    Does anyone use animal hide glue? If so, when and why?
    I use hot hide glue, rabbit skin and fish glue (isinglass).

    I prefer hot hide glue for rubbed joints, hammer veneering and most general wood gluing tasks, rabbit skin glue for instrument making, gilding, gesso and ground for painting, and fish glue for its rapid seize/grab on wood, hides, parchment and vellum—the real thing from Russian sturgeon bladders—not from cod, et al. Preferring to avoid clamping and rarely needing extended open time, I just as rarely use liquid hide glue.

    Glue creep? I hate glue creep.
    Last edited by David Barnett; 03-29-2013 at 12:15 PM.

  5. #5
    I actually just got my first bottle of Old Brown Glue today. I've used Titebond till now. I like the slow set and the easy clean up. If you work on prefinished stuff like interior trim, its just so nice to wipe any squeeze out with a warm barely damp cloth after its dry.

    I'd like to give hot hide glue a try, but its on the "one of these days" list.

  6. #6
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    Count me among the hide glue users, primarily Old Brown Glue.

  7. #7
    I use primarily hot hide glue for everything. I started using it because my first foray into woodworking was building guitars, and the benefits in guitar building are very worthwile, which I could go into detail if anyone wants (resistance to cold creep, sound differences, repairability, etc). I have continued to use it in woodworking and furniture buliding because I think it is an excellent glue, it requires you to work to tighter tollerances as it has less gap filling abilities than titebond or epoxy, and it is the old world way of working that fits in with the hand tool dynamic.

    I don't use the liquid hide glue for the same reason I started using hot hide glue, in that many guitar builders claimed that it didn't create as strong joints as hot hide glue (they exhibited glue failures in bridge glue ups on acoustic guitars for instance). I haven't heard anyone say anything about this in furniture building, so maybe the differences are slight enough that they only come about in guitars, where there are more stress on glue joints? Of course, it's good enough for Patrick Edwards, so who am I kidding, but either way, I really enjoy working with hot hide glue, and I think more people in the hand tool world should try it out.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonas Baker View Post
    I don't use the liquid hide glue for the same reason I started using hot hide glue, in that many guitar builders claimed that it didn't create as strong joints as hot hide glue (they exhibited glue failures in bridge glue ups on acoustic guitars for instance). I haven't heard anyone say anything about this in furniture building, so maybe the differences are slight enough that they only come about in guitars, where there are more stress on glue joints?
    I agree on bridges and anything else in luthiery with glued elements in tension—no creep and hard enough to make a difference in the sound. I used nothing but hot hide glue on my Bouchet classical. Liquid hide glue is fine for furniture, no doubt, but I prefer hot hide glue for for my style of construction and assembly.

  9. #9
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    Thanks, everyone. I'm trying out hot hide glue first, and I've already seen the benefits of being able to clean it off finished surfaces. One of my first uses was today -- fixing two legs on a pool table that we sort of, um, broke, trying to move it, If I get tired of dealing with the glue pot, I'll probably try liquid hide glue.
    Michael Ray Smith

  10. #10
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    I don't know if this is true for others... but I basically decide on liquid vs. hot hide glue for furniture making based on the length/complexity of the joint. For a big carcass dovetail (working alone) I'm just too slow. I need to use liquid hide glue. But for something like mortises or other single joints, hot hide glue is fine (and cleans up easier, too).
    clamp the work
    to relax the mind

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post

    It can be made waterproof if needed.
    Am I the only one who saw this oe is this a known thing? how can you make it waterproof?

  12. #12
    http://www.vanedwards.co.uk/glue.htm

    Add Aluminum sulfate. 1/2% to 1%. In a throwaway container.
    Last edited by David Weaver; 03-31-2013 at 9:03 AM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew N. Masail View Post
    Am I the only oe who saw this one is this a known thing? how can you make it waterproof?
    Yes, it's known and has been for a long time that an addition of ½ to 1% alum makes hide glue waterproof, although violin bowmaker, John Aniano, found it to be less waterproof than water resistant when left immersed. He also found formaldehyde treatment, another waterproofing method, produced a more reliable effect than his results with alum.

    From a modern source, Steven Shepherd, author of Hide Glue: Historical & Practical Applications, on his Full Chisel Blog—Making the case for hide glue*, states:

    "Adding things like alum to make it waterproof, or glycerin to make it flexible, or bone dust as a thickening agent also reduces the strength of hot hide glue by 10%. So altered hot hide glue and liquid hide glue still has a shear strength in excess of 2800 psi."

    Although I use epoxies for gluing metal-to-wood and metal-to-metal, Shepherd describes using hide glue with garlic for metal-to-metal bonds, as well. Versatile stuff.


    *http://www.fullchisel.com/blog/?p=2105
    Last edited by David Barnett; 03-31-2013 at 9:47 AM.

  14. #14
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    Does anyone use animal hide glue? If so, when and why?
    Funny that my use of animal hide glue preceded my woodworking.

    I used rabbit skin glue for some gold leaf work.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Funny that my use of animal hide glue preceded my woodworking.

    I used rabbit skin glue for some gold leaf work.
    Same here. I was a bookbinder & document restorer before I ever considered woodworking.

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