Buffing a laquer finish

[wes murphy]

When you buff a laquer finish, do you start with the tripoli wheel or start with the WD wheel? I've never buffed laquer before so I do not want to start the process wrong.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Neither Wes,
It takes courage but try this; begin with 400 grit and lightly sand until all the texture is gone. By texture I refer to the light orange peel even a good lacquer job leaves. Then go to 1000 grit up to 4000. If you use wet and dry paper or sponge backed abrasives you can lubricate with mineral oil (not water). After 4000 examine the sheen and see if you even want to buff. If you do, use tripoli first and and the white stuff after. Wax, sit back and enjoy.
faust

[Richard Coers]

Also depends on how many coats of lacquer and what wood. You don't want to use the WD on walnut unless the pores are completely filled. Use the WD on a few coats, and you will have pores with white in them. It also takes very little pressure on the buffing wheels, and the lacquer needs plenty of time to cure.

[Thom Sturgill]

On the wet sanding I use mineral SPIRITS, not mineral OIL. No residue. Use a small amount in a shallow bowl and clean it at least every other grit and try going to 8000 or 12000 using Micro-Mesh Sanding cloths. This can be done while the spray is fresh. Wait at least a week (two is better) before using a buffing wheel. Usew very light pressure as heat build-up will melt the finish, but use all three wheels. I often stop 'sanding' at 2000 grit and buff later.

[Bill Bulloch]

Laquer is my favorite finish. I use a spray can Laquer (usually Behlens, but most are just as good and don't smell as strong), four five coats, then I let it cure for about a week or so. Next I'll rub it out with Pumice and Rottenstone followed with a wax buff.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Wes I generally don't buff lacquer but when I do I always start with Tripoli, then white diamond (except on dark open pored wood like walnut) and the wax buff with Ren Wax. I don't use carnuba because it shows water spots and finger print.

[Grant Wilkinson]

Tripoli is 800-1000 grit depending on the manufacturer. White diamond is 1500-1800. I don't see the benefit of wet sanding to 4000, then using tripoli. It seems to me that you are going backwards.

Whatever you use, be sure to let the lacquer fully cure. I use a pre-cat from a local commercial supplier and he recommends at least a week. It's dry to the touch in a few minutes, but not hard.

[Jeff Nicol]

The more coats the better and if you are using a rattle can, some brands are much better than others due to a finer mist of the spray that will help with orange peel. I use Deft brand and have had excellent results witht it. I will put on 3-4 coats about 15-20 minutes apart and let those dry for a day or so then sand out any blemishes and orange peel. Then a few more coats and sand with 400-600 grit until there are no more dimples, ripples or runs then a couple of fine coats and let it dry for a couple of weeks and then buff it out. This gives you a good thick coat of finish and you can raise it to a glass like shine and no wax is really needed, but renwax is perfered.

If you have a spray gun you will be able to control the spray and an HVLP system is best to deter orange peel and many fine coats can be put on pretty fast and then buffed out after complete cure. Check out some video of guitar and other fine instument finishing and you will see what I mean.

Good luck with a great finish,

Jeff

[wes murphy]

Thanks for the input for all. Lots of good advice.

[Jim Sebring]

You might want to check out Don Pencil's PL buffing compound. It's intended for Plastic & Lacquer, as the name implies. It's much finer than white diamond.