Installing a new fence question

[Dan Oelke]

Ok guys - last week you did a good job of helping me out on what to do about not telling the LOML about the new fence being delivered. However, she said that going to this board for help is like an alcoholic going to the local bar for help.

Now I need help installing the fence. I have a General F36T28 (a Biesemeyer licensed product) and am installing it on a Craftsman contractor saw with web style cast extension wings. A very nice upgrade I hope.

The front angle bracket has a little notch that you are supposed to line up with where the saw blade is. Ok - but when I do that, none of the holes line up with existing holes. So, I have to drill 4 holes I think. BUT then I notice if I shift the angle over to the right about 5" two of the holes line up. However, the notches they have for the miter guage slots then don't line up. That of course can be fixed with the small angle grinder - but then I'm grinding my brand new fence brackets..... eeek.

So, what would you do?

1. Shift it over the 5" - requires only drilling 2 holes in the front and modifying the front angle by grinding two small notches where the miter guage slots go. Gives me less space for ripping on the left side of the blade (this is a left tilt so why does this matter?) Adds a little more rip capacity to the right.
2. Put it where it's supposed to go. requires drill 4 holes in the front of the saw and wings. Gives the normal 12" to the left and 30" to the right rip capacity.

Thanks,
Dan

PS - anyone want to buy a standard Craftsman fence? I saw one go for $70 on EBay - no doubt I'ld never get that much but it would be a nice offset to my purchase price of the new fence.

[Norman Hitt]

Dan, like you said, you can make it work either way, but Unless you are needing to shift it to the right to get extra length for making wider cuts than the fence is designed for, I would install it where it is "Supposed to go". Drilling the holes in the cast iron is easy. One thing though, be sure to check to be sure that the holes you need to drill in the saw's table and CI extensions will not be drilling into one of the webs. If this happens, you will need to shift over slightly and drill a New hole in the angle, and on through the saw top/wing so you can get the nut on the machine screw. Be sure to use the little measurement card to get it set the proper distance below the table top and clamp it securly, and Recheck that distance Before you drill any holes.

[Tim Morton]

I would check here first just to assure that you CAN use the fence...then come back for drilling instructions.
http://www.biesemeyer.com/commer_fence/index.htm

I don't think you will need to drill the cast iron will you? Just the fence rails. Do you have lots of good clamps? You will want to be able to clamp the rails in place before drilling. I like the idea of shifting the rails in order to get them square to the table. Do you have that small wooden l-bracket template? You need that to adjust the height of the front rail.

[Kent Parker]

Dan,

If you move the angle rail over 5", the tape measure on the tube may be off. I vote for lining the notch up with the blade, as designed.

Nothing wrong with drilling a few holes. When I received my General International table saw with the General fence, none of the hole lines up.

If you drill into the angle rail rather than use the holes that are there you'll also need to counter-sink the holes so the bolts don't interferr with the fence.
Good luck with the fence, you'll like it.

KP

[Maurice Ungaro]

I had to drill a couple of holes to get my Beis installed on my saw. I also had to grind away some of the back rail so the trunnions could make it to 45 degrees. Works fine too!

[Kevin Post]

Kent is right on the money. The notch in the rail needs to line up with the blade. The notch is your index mark to ensure the rule on the guide tube will be in the correct position. You'll need to drill some holes...

-Kevin

[Tim Morton]

FWIW...adding a new tape measure is always a possiblility if you decide ou want the extra 5 inches on the right...who ever uses the left side anyway? Just make sure whatever you decide it is not interfereing in anyway with the funtioning of the saw. make sure you can still tilt the saw 45 degrees at all blade postitons.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

The LOYL has us figured out!

[Tim Morton]

The LOYL has us figured out!

I am waiting for someone to suggest that the only fix is to buy a general cabinet saw to match the fence

[Dan Oelke]

<grin> Yeah - I lurk more than I post here, but the LOML has heard enough comments from me that originated here at the creek that she seems to have caught on pretty quick. I think she prefers SWMBO over LOML as a title, but either works.

Now the saw to match the fence is a nice idea..... but will probably have to wait for bugetary reasons. I've more than spent the tool budget for the last 6 months so now it's time to turn out some projects for her to replenish that budget.

I'm still wavering. The instructions do say to drill the table, not the angle iron, but the angle iron would be easier to drill - less material to go through.

If I do drill the table and wings - I did check out where the webs land and I would have to shift the angle just a half inch or so from where it's "supposed" to be to avoid a web.

Oh well - I'll see what's on the "honey-do" list tonight and figure something out tonight if I have left over shop time.