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Thread: Beall buffing help

  1. #1

    Beall buffing help

    Hi all. I just bought the Beall Buff System and it should be here tomorrow. I have done allot of searching on the forum and it seems allot of people on here like to use the Ren wax as the final buff. From what I gather I know I should use very little. But how much is that and how do you apply it to the buffing wheel ? Do you just smear a little on your finger then put it on the spinning buffing wheel or use a gob of it ? Any help will be appreciated. I dont want to overload my wheel on the first day LOL.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    I wax the piece by rubbing a small amount on with my finger, then buff off. I'm sure others do it differently.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Bend, WI
    Posts
    97
    Ren wax is a great product, use it on all my turnings so the piece won't show fingerprints. I don't apply it on the buffing wheels, after buffing with the tripoli and white diamond compounds (don't buff dark woods like walnut with the white diamond, you won't get the "white" out of the pores) I simply wipe a light coat of Ren wax on with a blue shop towel, let it dry for a few minutes and hand buff with a clean soft cloth. If you power buff you will take the wax right back off again. Also, the carnuba wax that comes with the system is a very hard wax that looks nice buffed on a piece but will show water spots that are hard to get rid of, I never use the carnuba.
    "The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources"
    Albert Einstein

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Little Elm, TX (off 380)
    Posts
    565
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Behnke View Post
    ....carnuba wax that comes with the system is a very hard wax that looks nice buffed on a piece but will show water spots that are hard to get rid of, I never use the carnuba.
    Yeah, I have some spots on pieces from darker woods that I have to deal with. Drats.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    I to stopped using carnuba which shows finger prints and water spots. I just rub a light coat of Ren Wax on the piece. I let it dry for a minute or so then buff.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  6. #6
    I too use the Beall wheels but do not buff the Ren wax with them. I have a small square of a soft paper towel that is always kept in the Ren wax container and apply the wax with this, leave it sit for a few minutes and hand buff with another soft paper towel. I use the blue shop paper towels from Sams Club and they work very well to apply various finishes.
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    No, it's not thin enough yet.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Park Forest
    Posts
    87
    Wish I would of known about the carnuba before.. I've charged that wheel quite a few times with the Carnuba that came with system ;(

  8. #8
    Thanks for the help folks. Glad I asked. I was going to put the Ren. wax on the wheel itself. Probably would have been a big waste.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Gassaway, WV
    Posts
    1,221
    Wish I would of known about the carnuba before.. I've charged that wheel quite a few times with the Carnuba that came with system ;(
    I hate to go against the popular view but I have use carnuba wax that came with the beall system with great results. My bowls are handled a lot and they have been rained on and as far as I can tell no damage and no spots that I can find. I have used some Ren. wax and it is good to, but until I have a problem I an going to use the hard stuff.
    Fred

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mechanicsville, VA
    Posts
    101
    Make sure to do the sandpaper on a block of wood trick when you get your buffs to "defuzz" them. I neglected that step and the first couple of pieces had to be resanded as a result.

  11. #11
    Will do Rich. Thank you.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    Mike, you can buff anything--just use low pressure & rpm on thin waxes ect. Carnuba does bueatifully, too heavy and you can leave fingerprints but rarely. It will spotwith waterdrops but who takes their picasso outside in the rain. My first show was in tents--very hot and 2 good thunderstorms spotted most of my pieces. They buff off easily however and looked better with another buffing. The wheels can be washed out with a good warm water/soap soak overnite.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Green Valley, Az.
    Posts
    1,202
    I seldom use wax as a finish. I don't believe that it's a permanent finish. I've seen pieces that were done years ago with wax and the finish look poor. It does give a nice shine for a while.

    I have used the Beall system when doctoring a dull finish on an old piece. I finish off with the carnuba wax buff and it looks great. IMO people who complain about fingerprints are loading the buff with too much wax. Just a light touch when applying it to the wheel.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Durango, CO
    Posts
    202
    Rich,

    I'm not familiar with the "sandpaper on a block of wood trick". Can you enlighten me?

    Thx, Greg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    St. Louis, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    67
    Are there any benefits to using Renaissance Wax over carnauba wax?

    Thanks, Dan

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