Lenox Die Master Bi Metal Blades

[Eric Gourieux]

Reed,
I purchased a few Lenox blades a few months ago, based on the recommendation of somebody here on the Creek. They are superior blades, in my opinion. Although they cost a little bit more, the have already paid for themselves. Love 'em.

[Dan Forman]

I am lucky to have a guy here in town who makes them, Oregon Industrial Supply. A contractor friend, who also turns, sent me to him when I got my first bandsaw. Lenox does have a home web page, and I found it difficult to navigate, but they do have an 800 phone number. I would think they would be available in any larger metropolitan area, especially if there are band saw mills around. I think my 96 inch blades are about $28. I can't really say that I have seen a tool test on bandsaw blades. Kind of difficult to do, same piece of wood, constant feed rate, etc.

http://www.gooregonindustrial.com/

http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/Cate...AND+SAW+BLADES

robo hippy

Current online price for 96" blade is $39.40 according to their website. http://www.gooregonindustrial.com/ Maybe they are cheaper in their store.

Looking at their site again, I see an address here in Spokane for Performance Saw and Supply - must be connected. Will give them a call tomorrow. The less expensive sources have a lead time of 6-7 business days prior to shipping, and that's from the east coast, so add another week for me. There is something to be said for instant gratification.

Do you have these blades resharpened when they get dull?

Dan

[Brian Kent]

Just a dumb question Brian--were you freehanding or using a fence when the saw did the crazy curving. May not be your blade?

The log was screwed solid to a platform. No I did not use a fence because of the danger of trapping these forces. I already knew the problems with this wood. I have sawn many sycamore logs the same size with no blade deviation.

The first photo is with the Timberwolf blade on Avocado - close to the size limit of the saw. Perfectly straight cut. The second is a picture of another eucalyptus log with a previous 1/2" Timberwolf blade. Again, no problems on any other kind of wood. The eucalyptus twisted the blade so much that I just kept following the cut so I could get the blade out of the wood.

Also, before the eucalyptus, I had no problem with the Timberwolf blades. It's just that with this strange wood, the Lenox cut straight - without a fence on the first cut and then with a fence once I had two flat surfaces.

[John Bailey]

The Lenox bi-metal is all I use. I get mine from Iturra Designs. Louis Iturra will give you good advice and will make any size blade you need. He doesn't have a web presence, so you'll have to call, 904-642-2802.

[Steve Busey]

I got the DM bimetal blade after seeking advice here about a year and a half ago - and it made a tremendous difference! I had some old dry cherry pieces I was trying to cut, and even at 1.5" thick, the wood would char and smoke when I tried using my old Highland Hardware house brand blades. After putting the DM BM blade on, it cut through the cherry like butter!

[Pinwu Xu]

Reed --- What's a good source for these, Nobody carries the 3 tooth around here, only the higher tooth count ones for cutting metal. I'm assuming it's the 3 tpi hook you are using? Is this the Diemaster 2?

Best price I've found so far is about $36 each from Toolcenter.com for a 111" (14" bandsaw). I haven't ordered yet, but have been wanting to try

Dan

Try http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm ?

That said, there's also the Olsen MVP blade, which is bi-metal, but thinner, might be better suited for the 14" saws?

[Pinwu Xu]

FYI. You might look at Packard Woodworks for Olson1/2 in,3tpi, hook tooth, bi-metal blades, 105 in. for under $20.00. Just my .02 for what it is worth.

Would appreciate a link if possible

[Reed Gray]

I did look up the Olson MVP blades. They are a bit less expensive then the Lenox. They are the thinner blades, .025 I think. I do prefer the thicker blades, if for no other reason, they are more stable, especially if you are cutting full height. I have never had tensioning issues on my small bandsaw (PM 14 inch cast iron frame, 3/4 hp). I had tried the thinner blades, but had more problems with them when the blank would rock even a tiny bit. The thicker blades had no problems. As I have said many times before, I used to do concrete construction, and prefer things over built rather than under built. I did not see the bimetal blades at Packard, but the ones listed were not the bimetal quality/hardness. The 133 inch by 1/2 inch by .035 by 3 tpi blade I sent to Brian was $46.09.

I do take my blades into a saw shop to have them sharpened. I had tried to sharpen them myself with some methods mentioned in a number of forums, and they were never very effective. I found a local saw shop who would do them for me. I take a bunch in at a time, 3 or 4 of my 150 inch blades, and a couple of my little 96 inch blades, and the cost is around $30 to $40. They do a much better job. I don't think I have ever had one sharpened so much that it couldn't be done again. Usually the blade fails after a lot of heavy cutting. Don't think I have ever had a weld fail, but do get fatigue cracks on the back side of the blades. Usually when there is one, there are many.

I did ask Duke (bandsaw guru at my local saw shop) about the flex back blades. He just rolled his eyes. Maybe like me, he prefers heavier for better cutting. I would guess that for 'easy' cutting of dried wood that is milled flat, they would be fine, but for a chain sawn chunk that is some what uneven, and wet. probably not as high of a performance level.

Some one needs to do a tool review of bandsaw blades.

robo hippy

[Dan Forman]

Would appreciate a link if possible

I looked for this, couldn't find a true bimetal blade in their catalog or website. The one that I think is being referred to is called "All pro super premium", and is only available in 93.5" and 105" lengths, .025" thick. Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: All Pro Premium Blades .

Dan

[Dan Forman]

I just got off the phone with the local (to me) version of Oregon Industrial, and got a quote for about $29 for a 111" DM2 in the .035 thickness, which he had to order from the parent company - in this case literally, as his father owns O.I. He had the .025 in stock, but recommended the stouter material based on intended use. I should be able to pick up the two blades Thursday. Woot woot!

Can't explain the difference in cost from the website, and didn't ask.

Dan

[Rick Markham]

Reed, My understanding is that they are excellent blades, but for some reason a lot of shops won't resharpen their carbide blades. Is this an urban legend, or is this the truth? Anyone?... Anyone?... Where's Van Huskey when you need him? This is a bandsaw related thread! (sorry if I misspelled your last name Van... I know you are lurking around here somewhere!)

I keep hoping he stops snooping and gets a lathe... But Van is the kind of guy that won't get one until he can figure out how to put a power feeder on it!!!

[Richard Jones]

I buy mine from www.bandsawbladesdirect.com Free shipping with >$100. Nice folks.

Dan, that $29 is a DEAL, dude...............

[Reed Gray]

Their carbide tipped blades have such tiny carbide tips that one shop here said it was impossible. Not sure as to how true that is, but would think that a few swipes from a diamond hone might do well. If I was resawing a bunch of veneers, I would expect a lot of cuts with one blade. This is where going with the Laguna tipped blade, which I think uses stellite tips (same cutter material as the Woodcut coring tool, and now quite as hard as tantung) might be the better option. The tips are fairly long and deep, so several sharpenings should be possible.

robo hippy

[Reed Gray]

I went to the Lenox web site. Their two tipped blades, one uses C4 carbide, and the other used a 'carbide alloy' whatever that means. They used to use Stellite, not sure what they use now.

robo hippy

[Paul Gilbert]

I was surprised not to see any comment on Ellis blades. I have seen lots of rave reviews of these blades on other forums and here also. Based on these recommendations I just ordered a box full of blades to go on my new 18" Rikon (which hasn't yet arriced.) I also got some for my vintage PM 140, 14" saw.

Is Ellis simply a low cost supplier and not worthy of discussion when high quality is being considered??