Fear + chainsaw = teaching + training + caution

[robert baccus]

All really good advice for sure. As a starter I might stick to a smaller saw, 435 H and a 16" bar unless you are cutting awful big timber. Roger the 2 wedges in the back pocket. I just saved a tree headed for my shop with 2 wedges. A friend had a tree set backwards while still on the hinge trapping the bar. Sharpen the blade 1/2 hour before it needs it and saw your blocks in half with the grain. A friend watching is the best safety device. An electric in the shop in super handy.

[Reed Gray]

Well, at least he lived to tell about it.

One story about old fuel... I kept my gas can outside on a shelf that got some sun every day. Bleached out the plastic can. Filled up the saw. Ran it till lunch, then went back out after lunch, and couldn't even pull the rope. Took it to Mr. Chanisaw (actual business name) and they took it apart. The piston was frozen, and the inside of the cylinder was glazed over. Seems like the sun percolated the fuel down way too thin. Cost about $180.

robo hippy

[David Weaver]

I have the predecessor of the saw mentioned here, mine is a 350 husky. better than a department store saw, not as good as the high end saws, but will be plenty good for roughing blocks.

Mine is currently waiting for me to replace the fuel line on it, it is almost 10 years old, though and the line didn't crack until last year. The line is about $5 at home depot, or any place that carries fuel line. I'm sure it's probably about 30 cents a foot in a bulk roll, but good luck finding it that cheap. It will be available when yours cracks, though, and better to buy when it cracks than now, or you might have a cracked line and a cracked spare.

I had a great uncle who lost his life to kickback about 25 years ago - basically bled out before he could get out of the woods. I had a coworker whose brother lost his life to kicback cleaning up storm debris - kicback to the neck. And my grandfather (BIL to the person who lost his life) cut wood for a living and buried a saw in his leg and had to get about 60 stitches.

I've never felt too worried about kickback, but felling trees has always given me the willies if they're not straight up and down, in perfect health and with lots of room and no possible entanglements. Even then, you can get yourself in trouble. I don't know if you intend to fell any trees with it, but if you do, watch as much stuff about it as you can and avoid anything that isn't plain vanilla.

[Dan Hintz]

It will be available when yours cracks, though, and better to buy when it cracks than now, or you might have a cracked line and a cracked spare.

The pain I'm hoping to have him avoid is when the tube melts and clogs up the works... cracking I could have dealt with, but once it hit the carburetor it was done for :-/ And it only took a year or so for me, not 10.

[David Weaver]

Do you have gas down there with more than 15% ethanol? We have 10 here, might make a difference. I'd rather there was no more than what it takes to replace MTBE, and I'm sure a lot of folks with older equipment feel the same way.

[Kathy Marshall]

Brian, once you get comfortable with it, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. I've had my 18" Echo for about 2 1/2 years and wouldn't be without out. You've gotten lots of advice, just never lose a healthy respect for what it is and what it can do.
Some of my own rules for me are:
Always start it on the ground, with a foot on the handle and the chain brake on.
The only time the chain brake is off is when it is actually cutting.
Don't cut with the tip and only cut when your stance and footing are secure.
Never cut when you're fatigued. When you start getting a little tired and/or sore, then it's time to stop. The "just one more cut (log)" rule applies to chainsawing too.
If you question wether a cut is safe or not, then it probably isn't. Common sense is a wonderful safety feature that you should never be without.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you for all of the good feedback. I appreciate the advice and the repetition.

One of the ways I move into a safety zone with a new tool is to read, hear, & watch safe usage rules over and over and over until it is well ingrained in my mind. That is what moves me from fear to knowledge and respect. I plan on using the tool safely for many years, and this is one where I can't just learn from my mistakes. I'll try to learn from other people's mistakes and establish safe patterns and mental checklists.

And in answer to another question - we have 10% ethanol in California and I will be checking with the old pro at the local shop to see what brand and octane he recommends.

I especially appreciate Richard Coers' question, "Are you sure you should get a chainsaw?". Great question. My answer is "yes" because I want to do things the safest way possible. There is a lot of free wood around here and the safest way for me to process it is to take it down to size before bringing it to my bandsaw and lathe. I plan on doing this enough times that it will be much more economical than buying blanks. Also beyond the turning hobby, there are still 10-12 clusters of 3" oleanders (about 30 per cluster) on my property that need to be removed for wildfire safety. They cut easily but take a lot of time.

[Scott Conners]

I was afraid before I first got a saw too. Then I had the opportunity to use my dad's (under his tutelage) and realized the fear was misplaced. I was afraid the saw would be hard to use or would fight you, and that's why it was dangerous. Instead, it's extremely simple to use. I find my worm drive skilsaw much more difficult to use comfortably, and a bandsaw far easier to make a safety mistake with. As long as you are paying attention and keep it sharp, a chainsaw is a great tool, and not at all scary. I recommend finding someone to help you cut with it the first time. Ask at the shop, or on here, I'm sure someone is near you. A 30 minute walkthrough in person is worth months of reading.

[Brian Kent]

Dear people who make chainsaw movies (about making lathe bowl blanks),
Moccasins are not adequate protection against chainsaws, especially when using the drop start method, or when using your foot to support the log you are chain-sawing.
Helmets and face-shields are better than goggles.
Balancing the round side of a log on a flat stump isn't all that stable.
Digging into a log with the tip of the chainsaw doesn't look safe, even if you are already a couple of inches in.
Chain saw chaps are safer than jeans.
None of you are using the safety practices that are on the single page OSHA safety guidelines. Thank you for the teaching moments, but please be safer.