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Thread: Bandsaw Fence Advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Bainbridge Island, WA
    Posts
    261

    Question Bandsaw Fence Advice

    Hi all,

    SWMBO has approved my purchase of a bandsaw with part of this year's tax return. After looking around a different 14" models in my price range, I've decided to get the Rikon 10-325 currently on sale through Woodcraft. It has all of the features I'm looking for at a great price. However, the one consistent negative is that it comes with a fairly cheap fence. What would be a nice after-market fence I could add to it?

    Sincerely,

    Noah

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    524
    2 clamps and a piece of wood.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mechanicsville, VA
    Posts
    101
    My neighbor has this Carter fence and swears by it.
    http://www.carterproducts.com/produc...=474&cat_id=75

  4. #4
    Best fence made as far as I'm concerned is the Drift Master by Laguna.

    A couple of years ago I sold a couple of flatwork power tools and bought the Laguna 14" SUV and the Drift Master fence and aside from my lathe it is my favourite tool.

    Can be seen here
    http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaw-driftmaster
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  5. #5
    I have had continual problems with the fences on my 2 bandsaws. I can never seem to get them lined up perfectly straight. Since I am only cutting bowl blanks, it isn't important. I have plywood strips that I use to mark out parallel sides of the blanks and free hand it. I have tried a couple different methods of lining up the fence, and they work one time, but not the next, and for some reason, when unused, my fences seem to move just like wood does. Both the Laguna and Carter fences look nice, and I may have to investigate. And I was thinking there was probably nothing left that I 'really' needed in my shop, well, other than about 4 times the floor space....

    robo hippy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    137
    "And I was thinking there was probably nothing left that I 'really' needed in my shop, well, other than about 4 times the floor space...."

    Reed - I thought there were some laws governing this condition. SHMBO states emphatically that this is my current condition. I, on the other hand have always lusted for just one more toy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bremerton WA
    Posts
    16
    Hi Noah
    Whichever fence you decide on, you should be able to adjust it for the drift of the blade you are working with. Blades sometimes don't necessarily cut square to the saw itself, so the fence angle would have to be adjusted accordingly. I'm sure if you searched for it you will find numerous articles on it.
    FWIW If I am just ripping some rough turning blanks that don't need to be exact, I don't usually worry about it. But if I want a more accurate cut, I will go ahead and adjust it.
    Hope this helps!
    Jeff

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    Very good point as few people know about aligning the fence properly and then cuss the wood or saw blade. Some saws/blades don't seem to need it but most do and the wood is another variable.

  9. #9
    The main thing for you to remember is most after market fences will not work on the Rikon bandsaw because they install there blades from the side were you stand NOT the front. After market fences have to be removed every time you change the blade, then you have to reset the fence again every time and it's a hazel. I hear this allot at work even thou we told them about it before they bought the fence.The one on the Rikon looks a little flimsy but everyone that tries them says they work great. I have the 18" Rikon and the fence works beautiful.I know it's different then the one on the 14"but it's made to move for replacing the blade. Just look into this before you speed the extra money and have the problems.
    Comments and Constructive Criticism Welcome

    Haste in every craft or business brings failures. Herodotus,450 B.C.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,576
    Quote Originally Posted by Noah Barfield View Post
    Hi all,

    SWMBO has approved my purchase of a bandsaw with part of this year's tax return. After looking around a different 14" models in my price range, I've decided to get the Rikon 10-325 currently on sale through Woodcraft. It has all of the features I'm looking for at a great price. However, the one consistent negative is that it comes with a fairly cheap fence. What would be a nice after-market fence I could add to it?

    Sincerely,

    Noah
    You might want to try the factory fence before you drop more $ on an aftermarket fence. I modded mine - different bolts and knobs, second bar - and it works pretty well. It's not easy to adjust for drift but I'm in the 'set your saw up right, use a good blade and it won't drift' camp. So far so good with that philosphy. I like being able to use the fence to either the left or right of the blade. Resawing feels better pushing with my right hand, guiding with my left just like a table saw. To rip strips off wide stock, I want the fence to the left of the blade.

    BS_2_1.jpgBS_1_1.jpgfence3.JPG

    As you can see from the second pic, The Rikon's blade changing slot is different than most band saws, the blade comes straight out rather than making a 90o turn. That's great especially with wide blades but it comes with fence considerations. The factory fence works fine with common T bolts and I replaced the crappy knobs with larger better quality ones. There's a loose brass insert in the fence stub that the tightening bolt bears against. If you remove the stub, don't lose that! That's why I just remove the fence and rotate the stub out of the way without removing it. People have mounted other fences by spacing them away from the front of the table to accomdate the blade change. I don't feel the need to spend the extra $. YMMV of course.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    I've been watching this with interest. The 14" Rikon is an 'improved' version of the Sears 14" Professional. Rikon uses standard blade lengths and added better tensioning hardware as well as changing the fence quite a bit.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Erie, Pa.
    Posts
    147
    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    You might want to try the factory fence before you drop more $ on an aftermarket fence. I modded mine - different bolts and knobs, second bar - and it works pretty well. It's not easy to adjust for drift but I'm in the 'set your saw up right, use a good blade and it won't drift' camp. So far so good with that philosphy. I like being able to use the fence to either the left or right of the blade. Resawing feels better pushing with my right hand, guiding with my left just like a table saw. To rip strips off wide stock, I want the fence to the left of the blade.

    BS_2_1.jpgBS_1_1.jpgfence3.JPG

    As you can see from the second pic, The Rikon's blade changing slot is different than most band saws, the blade comes straight out rather than making a 90o turn. That's great especially with wide blades but it comes with fence considerations. The factory fence works fine with common T bolts and I replaced the crappy knobs with larger better quality ones. There's a loose brass insert in the fence stub that the tightening bolt bears against. If you remove the stub, don't lose that! That's why I just remove the fence and rotate the stub out of the way without removing it. People have mounted other fences by spacing them away from the front of the table to accomdate the blade change. I don't feel the need to spend the extra $. YMMV of course.
    Question for Curt: Where did you get the second bar. I like your idea but nor sure how to find that second bar.

    Thanks.
    Paul Singer
    Jet 1642EVS 2hp

  13. #13
    As Harry points out because of the table slot the Driftmaster will not work in your situation.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Bainbridge Island, WA
    Posts
    261
    Thank you to everyone who replied! I bit the bullet and ordered the band saw from my local Woodcraft yesterday. They're delivering it this Friday. Although I've used a band saw before, I have a lot to learn!

    Noah

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,576
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Singer View Post
    Question for Curt: Where did you get the second bar. I like your idea but nor sure how to find that second bar.

    Thanks.
    I ordered it from Rikon, the manual will have the part#. I think it cost $20, may have been less.

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