[OP]
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I am in process of installing grizzly T10126 spiral head.I just aquired jointer a few months ago,some of you we,re helping me find it.Long story short I spent several hours cleaning below outfeed table,removing mouse nest and built up wood shavings.Now the outfeed side works much better,infeed side was not a problem.Just thought I would pass this along,previous owner passed away and this jointer was in his workshop in a stand alone building.
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Hi Ken, Glad you are making progress with the DJ-20. I had pointed you to a few DJ-20's several months ago. I am curious why you chose the Grizzly T10126 over the Shelix H8803. They both are currently on sale and $50.00 difference in cost. Back in December, I bought the Shelix head for my DJ-20 and I am still waiting to receive it from Grizzly as it is out of stock. I called them last week and they said they were expecting a shipment late April. Is the out of stock situation then reason? Roger Davis in Texas.
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Ken,
I don't know if this is of interest to you. A couple years ago I refurbed a DJ-20 and I wrote a little essay. The points I covered were these:
1) Motor mount on backwards ( factory installed it backwards ), therefore ...
2) Motor pulley on backwards and mounted at end of shaft instead of base of shaft.
3) Top of "chip chute" is open, so dust collection doesn't work
4) No chip chute port.
5) Dado table too low,
5b) Fence support also too low, so fence bangs against table
6) Guard does not return to fully closed
7) Rattle!!
I can send you the entire article if you'd like to see it. Let me know.
Cheers,
Russ
Member
Russ,Originally Posted by Russell Sansom
Did you post the article on Sawmill Creek or elsewhere? If so, please provide the link. I recently refurbed a 1948 8" shortbed jointer that is 95% perfect in terms of alignment. Perhaps I'll find a clue to the other 5% in your article!
Best regards,
Ron
Contributor
Russ, As I also own a DJ-20, I would like a copy of your article. Thanks, Roger
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I'll post it here by the end of Sunday. I think others might find some benefit or comfort from it. And I would welcome feedback and further improvements.
Contributor
Look forward to reading it.
Contributor
April 28, 2013
As promised, here's a copy of my previous DJ-20 essay.
I wrote this a couple years ago. I'm sorry that it isn't a little more refined and my memory is not fresh about it all, but this should get you started.
One thing I've left out here has come up since I got the DJ-20 up and running. The front and the back of the fence are not in the same plane. That is, if you held a pair of winding sticks against it front and back, the sticks would show a twist. This is mentioned many times on the internet. It makes sense. It's a huge casting. I'm guessing the manufacturer should have let the casting stabilize for much longer than they did before grinding a face on it. I have lived with it, but having thought it over, my solution is to affix a chunk of hardwood to the face of the fence and to plane / bully that wooden face to be coplanar and square. Square can be achieved through normal adjustment. Twist is built into the fence.
*** *** ***
A 1995 Delta DJ-20 came into my shop and production shut down until I put it into usable condition. I had no idea it would turn into a two week project! Here are some things I learned in the process…that I probably could only have learned from the process.
This one has its original knives in it, half dull. I think that was the extent of the machine's use since it was bought new. Their was no appreciable wear on the machine and a quick survey convinced me that it had never been set up.
I would have gone over it thoroughly anyway, but after a close look and a few minutes searching the internet, it appeared my newish DJ-20 had every single shortcoming that a DJ-20 could have. It took almost two weeks of spare time, but it was all pretty easy to set right.
Here's the list of problems I found:
1) Motor mount on backwards ( factory installed it backwards ), therefore ...
2) Motor pulley on backwards and mounted at end of shaft instead of base of shaft.
3) Top of "chip chute" is open, so dust collection doesn't work
4) No chip chute port.
5) Dado table too low,
5b) Fence support also too low, so fence bangs against table
6) Guard does not return to fully closed
7) Rattle!!
What I did to fix these problems.
In order,
1) In researching dj-20 setup I found three (various) forum remarks by a kind soul who wanted everybody to know that the factory-installed motors on some machines were installed "backwards." It is a bit awkward to explain, but the "H" shaped mounting bracket is rotated 180-degrees. That is, it is yawed so the back is the front. This puts the motor in a position where its pulley is too far in and can't be adjusted any farther outward to line up with the pulley on the cutter head. It is not obvious at first, but the bracket is not symmetrical
I assume the factory lost that employee who knew about the right way to do this. So, the factory had to flip the pulley around in order to get it to line up. The problem here is simple: The pulley itself is way out on the motor shaft leading to vibration and even possible damage to the motor shaft.
You will have to look at yours and think it out to decide if yours is one of the reversed installations. As I said, if the pulley is way out on the motor shaft, it's probably a backwards mount.
The solution is simple, if tedious.
A) Unbolt the motor completely
B) Unbolt the "h" shaped mounting bracket, comprised of 4 pieces of u-shaped angle iron.
C) Reverse the mounting bracket
D) Bolt the motor back in place and
2) --- E) Turn the pulley around so the business portion -- the part that the belt passes around --- is near the motor. This puts the shaft, the part that houses the set screw, out away from the motor. This pulley will now line up with the pulley above.
BTW, lining up the pulleys and getting the proper tension is a royal, complete PITA. I had to do it twice because of the new cutter head. There are several possible solutions to this. Mine was to put a carefully chosen box under the motor and to elevate the motor to the proper position using pairs of wedges. It still took 2 hours to do it twice.
3) Several articles on the internet for this problem. I put my "chute lid" inside the chute and held it there with screws. This was just what came to me, or the one solution I saw somewhere and it got stuck in my head. This is the most labor intensive and tedious solution. Do an internet search to see the solutions others have come up with
4) I attached a frame to the front where the "chip chute" comes out. Into this frame I slid a 1/2" rectangle of plywood, and in this rectangle I cut a hole for a dust collector socket. You could just screw a plastic DC port on the front. I've seen them on several ww supply catalogs. I wanted to be able to pull out rectangle and get to any potential clogs. If I need to change the diameter of the port I can just put in a new board.
5) I took off the dado table. The downside is that it might get buried in my shop and lost forever.
5B) After considerable head-scratching, here, I think, is the proper answer:
The bottom of the jointer fence has a 4 or 6" sort of hot dog casting that rides on the infeed table. I found it hard to believe that the fence actually bears on the table. Won't it scratch it? Looking at my dj-15 before its next owner comes and picks it up this weekend, no, it hasn't scratched the table. The cantilevered table that the jointer fence rides on should be exactly the same height as the off-feed table. Without going into truly ugly detail, just make them the same height.
6) The guard return is a very common complaint on the DJ-20. It took me a dozen trials and errors to get it working. The secret is this: Put it all together, screw it mostly down, then use non-maring pliers to turn the pivot bolt … the shaft that holds the red guard in place … as much as you can. This preloads the spring. It will take a couple trials, perhaps, but now that you know the secret, you should be able to do it in a few minutes rather than two hours.
That was about it with the stock jointer. I gave it a Sunday morning spin and ran every un-jointed board in my shop through it, dull knives or not. This was just a getting-to-know-you foreplay session in anticipation of the new Byrd Shelix head.
I got a fine deal from Brian at [can't remember the business name. Sorry]. I'm going to pass on a couple hints here, too, that might save you some time and money.
I highly, highly recommend that you buy the bearings and have the factory press IT on. Only one can be put on ahead of time. But it's highly likely that you will damage the old bearing while taking it off the shaft. That is, IF you have the proper-size bearing puller in the first place. Putting on the new bearing is no picnic either. I asked Brian if he'd include the bearings along with the 10% discount and the free shipping and was delighted to find the one bearing already pressed on and the second shipped along in its own little sealed box. This is the most frequently posted advice from many internet woodworkers. It's expensive and frustrating to track down a machine shop to do this for you, and it's not a job for the uninitiated.
My best advice, though, comes from a mistake I made. I pounded on the second bearing using a properly-sized steel cylinder and being careful not to pound against anything but the inner-most ring of the bearing.
HUGE MISTAKE. Not pounding the bearing on. The mistake is that I didn't put the bearing into the pillow block and reinstall the retaining C-ring. I mean, I don't talk to myself this way very often, but this was STUPID!!! I was ten minutes from having the jointer back together and my version of Miller time. Instead I had semi-permanently mounted a bearing that now had to be taken back off.
This was near midnight and I had no choice but to go to bed with my silliness. I wasn't using exactly that word at the time.
Here's the deal.
I suppose the C clip is there to put the shaft in the right place, relative to the pillow block. It also allows you to pull the bearing back off if need be by pulling on the bearing block. I found a "gear puller" at a local auto supply store for $6. It was touch and go, but the bearing finally came off. But with some ugly dents in its shield. I know some folks would say, what the heck and put the same bearing back on, but I'm not that folk. So a trip to the big city and I found a replacement for $17.00. Ouch. A $25 dollar mistake. Could have been worse.
So here's the proper sequence of events for putting the bearings on the cutter head:
[ Sorry. I apologize for this being a little garbled. Again, my memory is fuzzy but I think the problem is that the 2nd bearing has to be "captured" by the pillow block. The 2nd bearing can't be mounted at the factory because they don't have your pillow block. Short of my providing you with photos, take a pre-disassembly photo of yours and it should show you the sequence. I didn't find it obvious...obviously...but I didn't catch other people howling about making this error when I scanned the internet. So, maybe I was the only one. ]
7) I buttoned up the jointer, plugged it in, and hit go. And, OMG, what a terrible rattle! Just at midnight again, and again, to bed with my pain.
I found 3 or 4 internet posters who had this same problem. One of them was my problem. The pulley guard vibrates against the body of the jointer. I sawed 1/8" off the guard and the rattle disappeared. Now if it weren't for the propeller sound of the knives whirring, I could barely tell the thing is running. Cool.
Good luck with your DJ-20. Mine has come a long way. I think it's a pretty good machine.
Last edited by Russell Sansom; 04-29-2013 at 2:27 AM.
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Thank you!
Member
Thank you!
Ron in Ottawa
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