Table saw rip fence standard procedure and safety

[Bill Wells]

For standard ripping on a table saw, should the desired cut-off be against the fence, or on the outside of the board? That is, if I need a 1" strip cut from a 12" board, is it best to have the 1" piece between the blade and fence, or on the outside of the board? Thanks!

[Stan Krupowies]

The "keeper" piece is against the fence and the remainder is on the outside of the blade.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

The "keeper" piece is against the fence and the remainder is on the outside of the blade.

I assume that it would be difficult to set the fence to width and then cut off a piece that is exactly 1". That said, it is difficult for me to have a 1" piece against the fence if I want to also push that 1" piece through unless I remove the blade guard. My favorite push stick is made from 1/2" ply, so it is not the width of the play that is the problem. So, how do you push that 1" through against the fence?

[Art Mann]

Everyone needs to remain within their own comfort level doing high risk operations. I would rip a 1 inch piece off a wider board with little anxiety. However, I would use a properly designed commercial or home made push stick. I would adjust the blade so it barely protrudes through the wood. I might also use one or more feather boards to hold the material against the fence and table and prevent kickback. It depends a lot on the situation.

[Troy Turner]

I've always set my fence to the desired width and used push blocks and sticks to go from there. I've seen others though set up a jig in the left miter slot, set it at the desired width, and keep moving the fence over. Each time the stock touches the jig, lock down the fence and push through.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I used to put those thin strips next to the fence but always had problems/concerns doing it.

Recently I built a thin strip ripping jig for which I found plans at WoodsmithShop.com. and the thin strips go to the "free" side and the scrap is against the fence.

It works like a charm.

When making multiple thin strips of the same width, you set the jig for the first one and then rip, move the fence, rip, move the fence, rip, move the fence....no more measuring required.

I have a friend who makes rosaries. A couple times a year he comes over to my shop. In an hour or two we can rip, half-lap joint and cut to length enough 3/16" thick x 5/16 wide strips to the two required lengths to make about 100 rosaries. The need to rip these thin strips is what necessitated my finding a better way to do it.

[Darius Ferlas]

3/4", which is just about as wide as the thickness of my shop made push "stick", is as narrow as I will go. Less then that and I'll take the left of blade pieces, a hair wider and then put them through my planer to get the desired size.

[Mark W Pugh]

Or this product. You can cut 1/4" slices with the appropriate foot. Just another option. I do like Ken's jig.

http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Or this product. You can cut 1/4" slices with the appropriate foot. Just another option. I do like Ken's jig.

http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml

Forgot about that.... And I own it...

For thin, I generally use a sled with a stop block to set the width to the left of the blade.

[Richard Amabile]

Ken:
I need to rip some thin stock to laminate chair back slats and the approach you mentioned sounds like it might just do the job more safely than some other approaches. I checked the WoodsmithShop.com site and could not find the plans you mentioned. Can you tell me more precisely where to look for them on the site?

Thanks
Richard A.

[Chris Padilla]

Ken:
I need to rip some thin stock to laminate chair back slats and the approach you mentioned sounds like it might just do the job more safely than some other approaches. I checked the WoodsmithShop.com site and could not find the plans you mentioned. Can you tell me more precisely where to look for them on the site?

Thanks
Richard A.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056

I bet you could make one staring at the pics for a few minutes.

However, chair back slats tend to be on the ~2" wide or thereabouts size. I'd find that uncomfortable to rip on the table saw. A bandsaw would be much better IMO.

[Jim Rimmer]

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056

I bet you could make one staring at the pics for a few minutes.

However, chair back slats tend to be on the ~2" wide or thereabouts size. I'd find that uncomfortable to rip on the table saw. A bandsaw would be much better IMO.

I have one of those and it works great. I make a lot of jigs but for $20 I would (and did) buy this one. I don't think materials and whatever my time is worth would be less than $20 unless you might just really be in to making jigs. I'm not sure the OP was talking about making multiple parts; if he is then I would recommend this. If not, as stated, it's kind of a personal comfort issue. I use a narrow push stick on the right of the blade.

[Jeff Duncan]

One other easy way to do them is to just push through with a push stick regardless of width. That's why you always make your push sticks out of wood, plastic, or other easily cut material

I use my saws daily though so thin strips don't bother me. If one is worried then by all means rig up a jig....a little extra safety is always good

good luck,
JeffD

[Bill Wells]

Thanks for all your great input on this subject. I like Ken's reply, "The "keeper" piece is against the fence and the remainder is on the outside of the blade." But I get the feeling that often it is a judgment call. Since we got to discussing jigs, here is one of mine, published in Shop Notes, Jan/Feb 2011 Issue 115. If anyone is interested, I have several pages of details.SCAN0017 (Large).jpg

[Julie Moriarty]