All Cracked up and nowhere to go - part 2

[Roger Chandler]

A couple weeks ago, maybe three [+/-] I posted a pedestal bowl from a very cracked up walnut log. This is the other half........and it is all cracked up as well.

Before anyone gets to lecturing me on turning cracked wood, please know that I really worked on this blank and filled every crack with copious amounts of CA glue.........was very careful on my cuts and stopped every little bit to recheck to see if everything was okay with it....and continued to add more glue......on the final application of glue, I also used sawdust from the turning to help fill the cracks.

This was done in stages, and with great care............the bowl has a flare to it and a beaded rim that is pleasing to the hand, and a very slight base.....just to give it a tiny bit of lift. It is also a little thicker than most I turn because of those very cracks mentioned earlier.....seemed to me that a little extra wood on this one would enhance the integrity of the bowl.

I basically turned this to use up some of the many pieces of wood I have in my shop for way too long that are cluttering up the place and in my way.........not sure what I will do with it as of yet, but when I find somewhere for it to go, then I guess I could change the title to just " All cracked up - part 2 "

This was wet sanded with Mahoney's walnut oil because of the tearout issue on end grain and has a very smooth surface.......again, pleasing to the hands and eye. That is all the finish it has on it at present, but I will probably do some additional finish work.

I can't do much about the cracks, but such is the nature and character of wood. At least it did not go to the firewood pile, which is a good thing!

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In my opinion.......it looks better in person than in the pics............I think because in natural light the cracks do not show up as much as with the flash on the camera.

[Doug Herzberg]

I like the bead on the rim, Roger. Too bad about the cracks. I'm starting to look on a big haul of wood as a burden sometimes, instead of a blessing. I end up turning one species endlessly and roughing a bunch of blanks I don't have room for, or else the logs sit around and check. Still, I'm taking a trailer and some chain saws to Iowa. They have real wood there and I'd hate to miss something special.

Nice save. Glad you're safe.

[Roger Chandler]

I like the bead on the rim, Roger. Too bad about the cracks. I'm starting to look on a big haul of wood as a burden sometimes, instead of a blessing. I end up turning one species endlessly and roughing a bunch of blanks I don't have room for, or else the logs sit around and check. Still, I'm taking a trailer and some chain saws to Iowa. They have real wood there and I'd hate to miss something special.

Nice save. Glad you're safe.

Thanks Doug! I agree with you about too much wood........it seems I don't have time to get to all my wood before it starts checking......I do at times cut the wood down to smaller sizes once it cracks ........box, peppermill and pen blanks....still get to many small pieces sitting around the shop......not enough room, and I hate throwing any to the firewood pile!

[Harvey Ghesser]

where's the popcorn!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Roger, Roger, Roger. Don't you know life is to short to turn crappy, cracked wood!!! LOL Sorry couldn't resist.

Really a nice looking bowl Roger. Like the flair on the rim. Well done.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, Roger, Roger. Don't you know life is to short to turn crappy, cracked wood!!! LOL Sorry couldn't resist.

Really a nice looking bowl Roger. Like the flair on the rim. Well done.

I hear ya' Bernie! Thanks!

[David Reed]

I really like the beaded rim - it punctuates the form exceptionally well. Nicely executed ogee curve as well. Cracks; well who cares. You mitigated these admirably.

[Michael Stafford]

Roger, do you coat your blanks with anything to keep them from losing moisture so fast that they crack? Are you roughing your blanks and allowing them to dry before finish turning?

You mention tear out on end grain and that you are wet sanding it out. It would be better if you learned to cleanly cut the wood and eliminate the tear out. A shear cut on the outside diameter of the bowl with a long grind bowl gouge will reduce most of the tear out if done carefully with a sharp tool. Even shear scraping with a freshly ground scraper will help to reduce tear out. On the inside using a smaller more traditionally ground bowl gouge will help reduce tear out. I use a 1/4" bowl gouge ground almost straight across to clean up tear out on the inside and it greatly reduces sanding time. Again shear scraping is a possibility. Those radial splits around the pith/knot can be made worse by a lot of sanding just because of the heat generated whether wet sanding or not.

Rather than wet sanding use some finish or brush on lacquer to stiffen up the fibers in the area of tear out if you are unable to cut the tear out cleanly. Let it dry and then try cutting them again and usually they will not lay down on you.

Using wood with the pith guarantees cracking. You have a ton of radial cracks coming off that pith. Using CA guarantees that the finish will be spoiled with stains and worse than that CA will eventually fail. It is not a long term solution to cracks. CA will continue to get more and more brittle and eventually it will not hold the wood together as the wood contracts and expands due to changes in humidity. If your bowl is ever dropped I fear it will shatter along the cracks already established. You would be much better off using a clear epoxy which does not soak into the wood and stain it and will almost disappear when the wood is finished under a clear coat. The cracks will still be visible but at least they will be more sound. But in the end despite your best efforts you will still have a bowl filled with cracks and glue and that is the least desirable result for any of us.

Saving a piece of crappy wood results in a turning from a piece of crappy wood. I love wood as much as anyone and it hurts when a piece I have been saving cracks and splits. I hate losing a piece of wood. But in the end it is better to turn good sound wood and leave the bad for the fireplace. Learning how to prepare and condition the blanks so that the wood dries slowly and properly will in the long run save you turning time.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, do you coat your blanks with anything to keep them from losing moisture so fast that they crack? Are you roughing your blanks and allowing them to dry before finish turning?

You mention tear out on end grain and that you are wet sanding it out. It would be better if you learned to cleanly cut the wood and eliminate the tear out. A shear cut on the outside diameter of the bowl with a long grind bowl gouge will reduce most of the tear out if done carefully with a sharp tool. Even shear scraping with a freshly ground scraper will help to reduce tear out. On the inside using a smaller more traditionally ground bowl gouge will help reduce tear out. I use a 1/4" bowl gouge ground almost straight across to clean up tear out on the inside and it greatly reduces sanding time. Again shear scraping is a possibility. Those radial splits around the pith/knot can be made worse by a lot of sanding just because of the heat generated whether wet sanding or not.

Rather than wet sanding use some finish or brush on lacquer to stiffen up the fibers in the area of tear out if you are unable to cut the tear out cleanly. Let it dry and then try cutting them again and usually they will not lay down on you.

Using wood with the pith guarantees cracking. You have a ton of radial cracks coming off that pith. Using CA guarantees that the finish will be spoiled with stains and worse than that CA will eventually fail. It is not a long term solution to cracks. CA will continue to get more and more brittle and eventually it will not hold the wood together as the wood contracts and expands due to changes in humidity. If your bowl is ever dropped I fear it will shatter along the cracks already established. You would be much better off using a clear epoxy which does not soak into the wood and stain it and will almost disappear when the wood is finished under a clear coat. The cracks will still be visible but at least they will be more sound. But in the end despite your best efforts you will still have a bowl filled with cracks and glue and that is the least desirable result for any of us.

Saving a piece of crappy wood results in a turning from a piece of crappy wood. I love wood as much as anyone and it hurts when a piece I have been saving cracks and splits. I hate losing a piece of wood. But in the end it is better to turn good sound wood and leave the bad for the fireplace. Learning how to prepare and condition the blanks so that the wood dries slowly and properly will in the long run save you turning time.

Thank you for your response Mike........yes, I do use anchorseal on most of my turning blanks. That being said......my biggest problem is having space to store blanks......I almost have zero space......I just place wood wherever I can find a nook or cranny. My shop is so small and crowded that wood storage is a big problem.........most of my wood I have to leave in log form and sealed on the ends until I can get to them. This piece of walnut was already cracked when I got it...........I mainly did this bowl just for practice, and to use up the wood.........my expectations were pretty small.

Yes, I do use a shear cut on the outside and a shear scrape on the inside with freshly ground edges. It does help a great deal and I get great results compared to not using this technique. Some pieces of wood are still problematic. I thank you for your suggestion on brush on lacquer......I have not tried that as of yet........I also understand Armor Seal is a good finish to stiffen fibers as well...........just have not picked any up as of yet.

I have used some epoxy a couple of times.......just happen to be out of it at present.......I will have to remedy that soon!

If I somehow left the impression that I do not know what I am doing........I apologize..........I sometimes post forgetting that not everyone understands my setup here at my shop and not everyone's situation is the same........however, your advice is very good advice, and perhaps I can adopt it more frequently.......

Thanks Mike!

[Michael Stafford]

Roger, I don't know what your set up is. My response was based on the fact that the majority of your posts show wood that is cracked and stained with glue to fix the cracks. Rarely do you post anything to the contrary. Either your choice of wood is very bad or something in the way you are handling it is going very wrong. Everyone loses some wood no matter what precautions are taken. But carefully sealed and then roughed out blanks reduce the failure rate. So does the initial selection of the piece of wood.

You are placing yourself at risk in trying to turn this split, cracked, crappy wood as it can fly apart while you are roughing it out and injure you. Not only is life too short to turn crappy wood but crappy wood can shorten your life.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, I don't know what your set up is. My response was based on the fact that the majority of your posts show wood that is cracked and stained with glue to fix the cracks. Rarely do you post anything to the contrary. Either your choice of wood is very bad or something in the way you are handling it is going very wrong. Everyone loses some wood no matter what precautions are taken. But carefully sealed and then roughed out blanks reduce the failure rate. So does the initial selection of the piece of wood.

You are placing yourself at risk in trying to turn this split, cracked, crappy wood as it can fly apart while you are roughing it out and injure you. Not only is life too short to turn crappy wood but crappy wood can shorten your life.

Mike.......you are correct.......my setup for processing wood is the origins of my problems.........I do at times rough turn some things.....soak in DNA and then wrap in a bag and weigh until it stops losing moisture.....then final turn. Many times, I do not have that luxury and when the inspiration strikes me, then I turn something just because I enjoy it...........

Now, that being said.......I am very safety oriented.........I took special pains with this and the other piece of walnut.......to stabilize the blank, take very light cuts, stop and check the integrity of the piece in process many, many times.........and proceeded only as I felt it warranted and safe to do so....and used fairly slow speeds.....it may not make any sense to you, because you go about the process differently than I..........perhaps not.

I have been wood working for the better part of 30 years..........I do not believe I have lapsed into a state of complacency about the realistic dangers of what I do at the lathe, or other wood working machines for that matter. I value my health and safety more than words can describe.......

In our two clubs in which I am a member, we have numerous turners who do pretty much what I do to stabilize cracked wood......many pieces are brought in to show that are a lot like what you see in the pics on this bowl. All I am saying is that experience does count for having some judgment in these matters. Perhaps you would not take what you called a "risk" with this one............that is good........I thought the risk, with my precautions and safety gear on,to be very minimal........and reassessed the endeavor in process very frequently.......just to double check.

I realize that the situation I have here, has its limitations.........and when/if I ever decide to do this on a higher level, I hope to have better working conditions, which I hope will include not only a lot more room to work in/with, but also hopefully to include a kiln for proper drying of wood. Until then, I cannot process all the wood into blanks........I am forced to leave them in log form, outside in a place that is shaded and off the ground. I truly wish it was different/better for me, but I have to do the best I can with what I have to work with at present.

I realize I did not have to give this detailed explanation, and there are still gaps in my explanation that someone might not understand the "why" of my methodology........but rest assured of two things........first, I deeply appreciate folks like you who seek to help others.......especially with safety.......and secondly......I will do my best to be safe as I turn and do other types of woodworking. I know this has its inherent dangers......they must always be considered..........however, one can minimize those risks to a very minimal level and using safety precautions, do this hobby. You take risks every time you turn on your lathe......but they are both calculated and your experience tells you when to proceed or to go another direction.

Thank you Mike!