outfeed table top

[Matt Mackinnon]

I have a Grizzly G0623X and it does have a slightly larger footprint inside the shop. I need to get some more additional surfaces for doing assembly and figured that to kill two birds with one stone, why not built a larger outfeed/assembly table around the G0623X and problem solved.

I had loads of 5/8 ply kicking around so I made up all the body of the unit, but what is left is my top. I live in Canada so trying to find that phenolic plywood is a no go. It just isn't available anywhere near me. I have several big sheets of 3/4" baltic birch that would work but they are not all the totally flat and would require putting on some melamine laminate over.

I can hit the big box for some 3/4 or 5/8" MDF that is perfectly flat. Glue two sheets together and be done. Flood the top with some urathaine and be done. I could also go with melemine covered compressed particle board. I know glue would not stick to that, but don't know how well it will stay flat. Also, as glue doesn't stick to it, it's so easy to glue two together for rigidity. Could epoxy and screw two together.


What would be the best bet to get this table done. I want to get into the shop and start building things again, but without any room to work it seems like a futile thing to do.

Matt.

[Jim Neeley]

Matt,

If it were me I'd use four layers of 3/4" MDF, creating a 3" tabletop. That would provide a better clamping surface for assembly.

[Ben Hatcher]

If I were using my outfeed as an assembly table, I'd use 3/4" mdf for the top, 1/2" mdf for the bottom and sandwich a hollow core door in between them. As for the surface, either laminate or sacrificial 1/8" hardboard. If you don't plan to beat on it too much, you could probably get by with 1/2" mdf for the top layer, too.

[Dave Parkis]

I would opt for 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and cover that will formica.

[Chris Padilla]

Take your 5/8" that you have loads of and make up a torsion box. Use two layers of 5/8" for the top if that makes you feel better but I don't think it is necessary as it only will serve to make it much heavier (if that's an issue).

[Matt Mackinnon]

All the 5/8 ply was used up to make the body up. I will take the trip out to bigbox and pick up some MDF to make the top. I have made several movable workstations for past tools, such as old planers and my midi lathe. I gather from the article written on FineWoodworking where i saw some plans for the perfect outfeed table, that they didn't see a need for a torsion box. But they did use the phenolic ply. If MDF will stay flat enough then it is easy to get and not outragious in cost that if I did need to replace it, then its not going to be too bad.

Thanks

m.

[Chris Padilla]

MDF will stay flat if properly supported and sealed. You mentioned wanting to use it as an assembly table so I figured you wanted it to be nice and flat for that. You can use 1/2" MDF if weight is an issue as 3/4" can start to get heavy. I saw that the borg had 3/4" MDF for like $30/sheet. I remember getting it for $18 several years ago...the last time I bought several sheets.

[glenn bradley]

As others have said, MDF would be pretty flat, it just need good support. The give and take on an assembly surface for me is that there has to be enough surface to reference things like drawer boxes off of and there has to be access for clamping various items in various states of assembly. If it is just going to be a solid surface with no clamping access then 1/2" MDF with some sort of ribbing underneath (or a torsion construction) would do well. 3/4" makes more sense if you plan to route miter slot clearance into it. I used to have slots but now just have the whole outfeed surface far enough below the TS surface to clear the runners.

Sorry, I started rambling. My point is that MDF with some BLO and some paste wax has been used for hard working surfaces in my shop for years without failure. MDF won't take a lot of beating but, normal workbench top type abuse has not hurt any of mine. This surface has seen almost daily use since 2007:

Long rows.JPG

[Rick Potter]

The factory side table on my Unisaw is 5/8 particle board with a Formica top. 20 years and counting.

Rick Potter

[david brum]

If I were using my outfeed as an assembly table, I'd use 3/4" mdf for the top, 1/2" mdf for the bottom and sandwich a hollow core door in between them. As for the surface, either laminate or sacrificial 1/8" hardboard. If you don't plan to beat on it too much, you could probably get by with 1/2" mdf for the top layer, too.

That's exactly what I did. A hollow core door is the cheapest, easiest way to have a torsion box. I glued 1/2" mdf to either side, edge banded everything, then laminated the top with what was on sale. It's help up splendidly and stays very flat.