Best Router for Table?

[Mark Blatter]

I am getting ready to start building a router table and am trying to play ahead for a change. I am not planning on installing a lift at this time, so I am looking at the PC 892 and the Bosch 1617 as each can be adjusted from the top of the table.

I read Jeff Branch's blog about building a table and he went with the Bosch, but I am currently leaning towards the PC. I would love to hear others thoughts and suggestions, in particular other options than these two.

I want at least 2 1/4 hp, but cannot afford my first choice, the PC 7518. Need to stay in the $200 range.

Thanks

[Steven Hsieh]

Either the porter cable 892 or Hitachi M12VC

[Prashun Patel]

Check out hartville tool. They have deals on the triton routers right now. Might just be the ticket for you. If you are planning to do dovetails or anything that needs to be cut in a single pass you will want a heavy hp router. I have a 1.75hp milwaukee in mine and it is easy to bog it down.

[Wade Lippman]

The 1617 is a poor choice. Although you can adjust the height from above the table, you can't change bits above; unless they improved it since I owned one.

I just got a Milwaukee 5625 for $285 and $15 for a 1/4" collet. It is $100 over your budget, but probably money well spent. (I put it in a lift, but it does have above the table access)

[Mark Blatter]

Check out hartville tool. They have deals on the triton routers right now. Might just be the ticket for you. If you are planning to do dovetails or anything that needs to be cut in a single pass you will want a heavy hp router. I have a 1.75hp milwaukee in mine and it is easy to bog it down.

I have a Leigh jig and use either that, or hand cut my dovetails. Right now my plan is to use the new router and table for making five piece doors. I am making replacement vanities for my bathrooms, and at some point soon will start on cabinets for a new kitchen.

[Prashun Patel]

In that case, I'd definitely hold out for a larger router. Routing wider profiles on door panels and coped doors can be done with multiple passes, you won't be very happy when doing a room full of cabinets using multiple passes. Just my 2 cents. I just completed an entertainment unit and wished for more cowbell during the scant 10 panels I had to do.

[Julie Moriarty]

I own the Bosch 1617 and it's only used in the router table. I've had it since the mid 90's. For years I was reaching under the table to engage the shaft lock to change bits. (I use an offset wrench to loosen and tighten the collet.) About 5 years ago I took a piece of flat stock and bent it to engage the lock from above.

I can change bits with one hand now.

But I would not recommend the 1617 for a fixed plate mounting. It's a plunge router and there are strong springs resisting your attempts to raise the bit (when in the table), all the while trying to hold back the plunge lock, which is trying to spring back. And once you release that plunge lock, it extends fully. Trying to accurately set the bit height is a real task! I quickly abandoned that method and got the router lift. It's worked great ever since.

[Prashun Patel]

Julie-
I have a 1617 also. Mine came with a fixed base that I don't use anymore. If you would like it I can mail it to you.
prashun

[Dave Anthony]

I have the Bosch 1617 and a Triton. The Triton is much easier to use in a router table w/out a lift: both in depth adjustment and above the table bit changes. The Triton seems large and heavy for hand held use; I like the Bosch for hand held and plunge operations.

[David Weaver]

I have a 7518 and no lift. I would wait until you find a 7518 on sale, it will easily easily be worth the extra money if you ever spin a door bit for a dozen doors. I can reach under a (home made) table and loosen the router and turn the router in its housing and get it to precise height.

[David Weaver]

Well, i could be wrong about the price. I can't find it anywhere for less than the $305 that amazon charges. When I got mine, coastal tool was selling them for $280 and there was a $50 rebate. That was before PC went to a MAP model for pricing, which seems to have gone by the wayside a little since I can see amazon's price without carting it.

And since some of us were beating up on mcfeely's last week, I see they have a generous deal of $442.95, but they do let you know they'll ship it for $1. What a deal.

(grainger has it for $495).

[pat warner]

"I would love to hear others thoughts and suggestions, in particular other options than these two."
*******************************************
I'd hang with the 890. Not what you asked for but the right choice for medium work nonetheless. Powerful, longest motor barrel in this class, good for most practical cutters. & in my view, door cutters are not practical for any router.
Some provision made for through the top adjustments, a reasonable compromise if the 7518 and 5625 are not candidates.

[Mark Blatter]

So if I could swing about $300, which would be better, the Milwaukee 3 1/5 hp or the PC 7518?

They are close in price, but I was surprised to see that I can get the Milwaukee for about $20 less than the 7518.

[johnny means]

Mark, I have the Milwaukee 5625 in a router table. It is plenty powerful, runs smoothly,with grest speed control and does a good job with the heaviest of cuts. But... the switch is very prone to problems from dust and the above the table adjustment contains plastic parts that are not up to the job of lifting the heavy motor. The 7518, on the other hand, is perfect. IMO, the Milwaukee is a fine tool but is no 7518. At some point, both my tables will be converted to PCs.

[pat warner]

If your tool supplier is to be trusted (quick replacements under warranty) and cares about you: I'd get the 7518.