Best Router for Table?

[Roger Rayburn]

I started with the PC 890. I liked it and had all the flexibility I needed. I liked the above the table height changes and the above the table bit changes. But, I knew someday I'd want more horsepower. I kept my eyes pealed for a 7518 on craigslist and when one showed up I was all over it. Then I bought the PRL2 and permanently recovered the 890 for handheld work. If I had to do it over, that's what I'd do again.

[Curt Harms]

Check out the refurb Hitachis here:

http://bigskytool.com/Routers___c362.aspx

Some of the Hitachis are ugly but hey, they sit under the table .Downside to Hitachi is they don't come with table friendly features like built-in lifts AFAIK, you'd need to add something like a Router Raizer. Triton always seemed like they were more table ready out of box than most.

[Rick Fisher]

I picked up a used PC 7518 that needed bearings really cheap at an auction.. Which reminds me I need to change the bearings.. ( bearings have been sitting waiting for several months ) ..

The router was $85.00 and the bearings where $20.00 ( approx ) ..

Routers are actually pretty simple devices.. I wouldn't hesitate to buy used. I would rather have a used 7518 in a table than say a new 690 ..

[Keith Hankins]

Ok, I'll start with my router table has been used a lot and i mean a lot over the 10+ years i've had it. I spent the dough for the 7518 way back when you had to buy the motor and base so I payed 350 back then. I also have the 890 series when it first came out for hand held work. I'll tell you right now do not settle for the 890 series. Don't get me wrong not a bad router (except top heavy IMO). However for a table you want gruntability and as much as you can get. That 7518 has never flinched or hesitated. I just did a quick look and for a motor only (put it in a lift) is 288. Probably catch a pc sale over the summer. Save a few more pennies and get the right one! Trust me on this. I've done the I'll settle now only to kick myself over and over for not being a little more patient and waiting and skipping a few lunches to fund my tools. That 7518 will be the goto router for a very long time. You know down deep I'm right you said it in your post. Anyway just an old timer that's "been-there-done-that". good luck!

[Chris Hachet]

If your tool supplier is to be trusted (quick replacements under warranty) and cares about you: I'd get the 7518.

I would buy the 7518 and never look back. I am about 75 percent hand tool right now, and am planning on a new set of kitchen cabinets and a vanity in. Te near future, also am going to be building an entertainment center for a friend. 7518 is the only one in that range I am even thinking of.

Almost the people I know who work wood for a living in one way or another pretty much use a 7518.

[Rich Engelhardt]

My first router table is/was a 1.75HP Ryobi I gave $99.00 for.
I still use it as a job site table.

My shop router table is a Freud 1700 w/top bit change and adjustment.
You get spoiled real quick with the top side capability.

I'd never even consider another router for table use that didn't have top side capability or anything less than a full 15 amp machine.

My Freud is a 14 amp (2.75HP) only because at the time I bought it, I had to run it at the end of an extension cord.

[Jim Stewart]

Get the 7518! You won't regret it. It is dedicated to the table. I use the Woodpeckers lift.

[Bill White]

I have a Freud in my table. Love the soft start feature, and the router has never let me down.
Bill

[Grzegorz Sajko]

Sorry for digging up old thread.
Do you have any suggestion for someone in EU zone? no Milwaukee or PC for me... I have to stick with DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, Festool, Hitachi.

[Robert Chapman]

Try the Triton. Can change bits from the top - no lift required. Made in Australia.

[Mark W Pugh]

Try the Triton. Can change bits from the top - no lift required. Made in Australia.

Yes, the Triton has the capability of above table adjustment, but I have problems with mine. While using the router the adjustment screw backs off. So, when I loosen the carriage lock, to adjust the height, the router falls a small amount. This pretty much negates using the above, or below, adjustment for small subsequent adjustments.

Yes, I tried to contact Triton, no response.

[Tom M King]

I have a Triton that someone gave me. I don't like it for various reasons, and don't use it. I have 5- 7518s, and wouldn't buy anything else for this use.

[Mike Schuch]

I use a Porter Cable 7539 3hp plunge router with a Router Raizer which allows adjustment from the top of the table. The 7539 was a no brainer for a router table router because I picked it up brand new with the Router Raizer installed at a Habitat for humanity store for $50.

Router Raizer makes models for several different plunge routers to allow you to adjust them from the top of the table.
http://www.rockler.com/router-raizer

[Curt Harms]

I use a Porter Cable 7539 3hp plunge router with a Router Raizer which allows adjustment from the top of the table. The 7539 was a no brainer for a router table router because I picked it up brand new with the Router Raizer installed at a Habitat for humanity store for $50.

Router Raizer makes models for several different plunge routers to allow you to adjust them from the top of the table.
http://www.rockler.com/router-raizer

I'm partial toward the router-raizer as well. It uses a 3/8"-16 lead screw so one turn moves the router 1/16", 1/2 turn 1/32" etc. That may be too coarse for some. I have mine on a Freud FT2000E (no longer sold in the U.S.) and don't use the plunge lock. There's enough 'drag' in the router raizer mechanism that the height doesn't appear to change when running yet it's pretty easy to turn and I can do above the table bit changes.

[ken masoumi]

Yes, the Triton has the capability of above table adjustment, but I have problems with mine. While using the router the adjustment screw backs off. So, when I loosen the carriage lock, to adjust the height, the router falls a small amount. This pretty much negates using the above, or below, adjustment for small subsequent adjustments.

Yes, I tried to contact Triton, no response.

That's exactly what I'm experiencing with my Triton 2.1/4 hp router,the router "unwinds" or loses it's height adjustment while in operation,the only remedy for it is to fully engage the plunge lock after the adjustment (which you have to do to many routers out there anyway) but the problem is ,when you disengage the plunge lock,the whole router drops down to the bottom /full height extension.
I used to praise Triton routers every chance I got but ever since this problem has developed I do not recommend their routers anymore.